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Getting Camber in a W-Body

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  • Getting Camber in a W-Body

    I have two Grand Prix that I circle track race.

    #1 biggest problem we have is the RF rolling over because you can't get any substantial camber in the front end..

    The fast cars (Dodge Intrepids) have adjustable camber on the strut tower.. they can get about 8 degrees of camber. Or about an 1 inch out.

    I've relocated the mounting holes at the top of the strut tower over and back so far that the spring rubs slightly inside the strut tower.

    Outside of lengthing the control arm, has anyone come up with a way to add camber ?

    If lengthing is the only way, what is the best way

  • #2
    24 hours and not a single hit.. damn, must be everyone found this to be as hard as I did.

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    • #3
      Slotting the the holes are pretty much the only way to do it short of redesigning the suspension....
      Lorenzo
      '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
      '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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      • #4
        I was messing around with this last night and came up with an idea.

        the ball joint mounts to the bottom of the strut, which then embeds into the control arm.

        If an extension was fabricated.. ie a steel plate.. where the plate could be mounted to the strut.. and then the ball joint to the plate.. forcing the strut further away from the frame at the bottom of the strut when the now closer to the frame ball joint is put into the control arm.. would that not increase camber ?

        Looking at it.. I feel I can get camber that way.. I'm really only worried about two things.. 1.) the thickness of the steel plate required so that it doesn't bend or warp. 2.) the maximum amount I can pull the strut away and have the half shaft still reach the hub.

        do the wide track grand prixs or manual shift grand prixs use a longer half shaft with the same number of inboard and outboard splines ?

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        • #5
          Here is something else to think about with that situation. You are going to have about 33% (making a guess) of the whole cars weight on that plate, if not more (figure around 66% of the cars weight is up front, divide that by 2 front tires). If it is not a street car, and a track only car, maybe cut the strut tower out and fabricate your own new tower that has the adjustments you need built in if they don't have any rules against that at your track.
          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
          Originally posted by Jay Leno
          Tires are cheap clutches...

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          • #6
            You know.. its probably more like 60 to 75% when you consider we go into the corner at 70 mph and are turning left hard as we can. the LR tire generally comes about 5" off the ground in the corners.

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            • #7
              O.O yeah, your probably right. So any rules against modifying the suspension?
              -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
              91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
              92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
              94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
              Originally posted by Jay Leno
              Tires are cheap clutches...

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              • #8
                Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
                O.O yeah, your probably right. So any rules against modifying the suspension?
                None that are enforced.. as you can see, I'm doing that now to a certain extent.

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                • #9
                  id love to see something get developed(to be safe) to this extent and would definately be down for buying the final product.
                  The Official Rotating Mass Nazi

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                  • #10
                    We discovered on assembly that the half shaft wasnt' long enough for the adjustment we wanted to make. So instead, we cut the strut, bent it out about 3/4 inch and welded it back together.

                    That coupled with a lessor ball joint relocation resulted in about 1 1/4" negative camber... looks good and will give race results later.

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