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so i took the driver side strut the other night on my girlfriends 95 buick century (3100) and only jacked up the drivers side of the car. changed the shock, used the old spring... put it all back together, and by this time it was dark out and the mosquitos were biting... so i put it back down and she drives it home. Next day she tells me a tire was squeeling really bad... so i take it for a test drive... WEIRD dynamics, i turn left, the rear end kinda "wags" behind me, i turn right and it seems normal. In a straight line, it seems to pull a little to the left now... so i get it back to my house, jack the whole front end up, and point the steering wheel straight (so the drivers side wheel is straight) and HOLY CRAP! the passenger side front wheel is pointing like 5-10 degrees outwards to the right... what happened? the tie rods are still attached and all, lol.
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well, my friend has assured me that its gotta be the tie rods/ends... so i guess ill see if they are loose or something, or theres excessive play... -
ewww... just figured out what it was, the new napa strut i got sucks... the lowwer bolt hole for the knuckle is keyed for adjustment... which is stupid cause the stock one isnt. so it pushed the knuckle closer or farther from the car (including the tie rod)... threw the steering outta whack... dont buy napa struts.Comment
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They are all like this so you can adjust camber/etc. Any replacement is like this. You need an alignment after a strut job.sigpic
New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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wow, that sucks, did struts on my 95 240sx, and it was SOOO much easier, do they do this for parts interchangability? seems pointless... ill probably just do the other strut and make sure that they point perfectly straight, dont feel like dropping ~$75 on a alignment (the cars initial cost was $150, did a fuel pump/sending unit ~$200, and about $150 for the struts, and thats all ive had to do in about 2 years, but its got a wicked misfire now so i think a coilpack is bad, it aint worth it for an alignment)Originally posted by IsaacHayes View PostComment
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Well, try to align it best you can by hand, but it might wear out the tires fast...
They do this so you can adjust camber like I said. Factory nothing is bend/damaged/old so they bolt them on without the need for the adjust ability. My monroe's where slotted both top and bottom IIRC. Also on my setup the tie rods connect to the strut to turn the wheel and that might not be exactly the same spot as the old struts..sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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every aftermarket strut for a gm that i have seen is like this. its so you get the adjustability without having to buy camber bolts.
anytime you change struts, you need an alignment. at least do a tape measure alignment and eye ball the camber. it may not drive perfectly straight tho. its best to take it to a shop and have an alignment done.
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