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Make a mold from the rubber ones, put the steel insert in, fill with windshield urethane and cure really well?
Your mounts that bad? Typically those mounts are a lot better than the style I have. Mine gets ripped in half too easy.
I've heard of flipping your mounts to firm it up on the GTP sites... They seem to like that mod.
BTW have you modded your air box for more flow, or is it not that restricted? Mine the snorkel shrinks down to like 1.5" or something on the end. Way smaller than the TB plate.
sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles 16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
The airbox is stock right now, it goes down fairly small but it's tall. I need to cut the bottom of it out and do something with it, just haven't got around to it yet.
SpudFiles
Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of! Theopia
Enjoy life online.
1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!
Yeah mines thin but tall, and then the snorkel goes back to round, and at the end is *very* small. It's like a funnel shape on the end but the ID is tiny. I opened up the resonator T off of it which points right to the 3" opening in the fender so that more air goes to the large tall oval of the box. I also opened up the side with another tube going towards the ground. I figure those two are at least the diameter of the TB, so no restriction. The size of the filter inside though would come into play next as a restriction. I cleaned my K&N drop in and WOW what a difference, it really moves. Flooring it at 55 it pulled hard a sec before it down shifted and then it really moved. I can hear the TB whistling too now. They say the K&N can go to 50,000 miles before cleaning but I noticed a *big* difference cleaning it before that. It looked dirty, so I cleaned it and oiled it well.
I don't know how sensitive my butt-dyno is, but it's either sensitive if it's 1-2hp, or it made like 5hp! hahaha.
The paper air filter sucks BTW. When I put that in I could not slip the wheels from take off but I did not try flooring it. With the K&N back in I took off and was in the middle of the intersection when I gave it more throttle and was able to screech the 225's!! This was not WOT just increasing the throttle. It sometimes will bog when snapping the throttle all the way open. Not a bog like somethings wrong but more like it can't react fast enough to the change or something. Not sure if that's the limitation of speed density setup (I have no MAF) or what. Cruising the throttle response is snappy though. I got my best 1/4mile time by feathering the throttle quickly to WOT than just flooring it. Of course now I have a new O2 sensor so that may not apply now..
- back on topic - !!! hehe sorry.
You can make a mold out of silicone caulk and do the urethane deal. I think that's about the only way. Might have to do the urethane in sections or it won't cure fast enough, but then it might not stick to itself??? Maybe baking it to make it cure would work.... Might make sure the rubber isn't deformed and smaller than you need when you make the mold though...
sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles 16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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