Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

V6/Porsche 914 project

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by RacerX11
    I am with Colin on this one...it sounds like you have some room to play, so go with long tubes. Or, if you want to experiement, some stepped long-tube headers would be interesting...not many FWD cars have the room to route the pipes, let alone use stepped primary tubes. You would be paving new ground with this, so it might be difficult to get tubing sizes/lengths for the proper powerband.

    My advice would be to find some sort of cross-flow muffler that has dual inlets, or use some kind of crossover tube to combine the two banks. These V6's tend to sound like crap if you have two individual banks with no crossover....they are basically two 3-cylinders....not very audibly pleasing. You could bring the two banks together in the center of the car into an X-pipe, then split them back to two mufflers exiting out the sides, like this (warning..I have no artistic ability, so this picture sucks). I don't know if there will be enough room behind the trans for this type of setup.

    Marty


    Marty hit the nail on the head right there. However lets hope your headers dont look like his drawing ability :P LOL, just kidding Marty.

    Here is the link to the header build i did in my car. I know you cant compare the FWD layout of mine to your car but... Will give you some ideas maybe on what you can do to route and keep the lengths the same.



    And yes, lets hope Aaron doesnt find his way into this thread....
    Colin
    92 Sunbird GT, 3200 Hybrid 13.99@ 95.22 (2004)
    90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 10.54 @ 129mph.

    Comment


    • #17
      Thanks guys for the input. I have done a lot of fab work in the past,but never had any experience with bending/welding pipes. My exhaust might very well look like Marty's drawning!!! :P LOL

      SteveSr

      Comment


      • #18
        Progress pics

        Here are the pics I promised.......................The first two are of the camber/caster boxes and plates I made with spherical bearings

        Comment


        • #19
          And an other.......

          Comment


          • #20
            A shot of the camber boxes and plates welded in........

            Comment


            • #21
              A pic of the Mazda RX7 radiator in the bottom of the front trunk......

              Comment


              • #22
                A shot of the Volvo 240 brake calipers on the strut with wheel....

                Comment


                • #23
                  And last the lastest mods to the trunk with the engine out......

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Colin,I checked out your link and viewed some of the pics of your headers and cylinder porting. VERY COOL indeed. How did you bend the tubing? This is EXACTLY what I had in my mind how I would fab my headers.
                    I saw this tecnique used on one of those chopper building shows on Discovery Channel and said AH HA!
                    Thats how I going to make my exhaust. Is that mild tubing or stainless?
                    SteveSr

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      He just bought a box of bends from Headers by Ed and pieced them all together... And IIRC, it's mild.
                      -Brad-
                      89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                      sigpic
                      Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Hey! I hate to jump around like this but I have all these things dancing around in my head,how can I eliminate the power steering pump and still keep the stock belt???? Make some kind of idler pully to bolt in it's place??????

                        SteveSr

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          The idler pulley is the best option. The new 3500 engine uses an idler pulley that should work on a 3100/3400, but might require spacers to work with the gen2 timing cover to get the belt alignment correct. Colin probably has GM part numbers to share on the idler pulley, or can look them up.

                          Here's a pic from his site showing the idler: http://www.domesticcrew.com/colin/3500/3500-15.jpg

                          Marty
                          '99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
                          '98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
                          '84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
                          '88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now

                          Quote of the week:
                          Originally posted by Aaron
                          This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I bought a bunch of "J" bends from S&S way back when Brad. when we were all getting in on the S&S headers to try and modify them to work with our cars. Sold those headers and kept the spare tubing.
                            then got more "U" bends locally. They were all Mild steel. as were the flanges. The collectors came from Headers by Ed. www.headersbyed.com

                            The 3500 uses an Idler pully that attaches to the front cover at the P/S pump bolt holes. I can try and look this pully # up later. really all that is needed is just a Ribbed Pully that can be mounted to the front cover.

                            I'll have to get a better picture of the Idler pully setup on the G6's I dont think i have a good picture of the one in those pics from when we got our first new body style Malibu last year at the Chev dealer.
                            Colin
                            92 Sunbird GT, 3200 Hybrid 13.99@ 95.22 (2004)
                            90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 10.54 @ 129mph.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              And yet another photo and question....

                              So I got an e-mail from this guy over at 914club.com about my project and he said something that peaked my interest. He said the Fiero had a low mounted alternator. can this be done with the 3100 top end swap that is planned? Currently the alternator hits the fire wall so I cut a hole in it to get the engine in place. here is a pic.........

                              SteveSr

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Here is a cleaner way to mount it. I took a gen2 AC bracket, did a little cutting, and welded a plate to mount the alternator. Works perfect, and eliminates the need for an idler pulley to catch the waterpump. Of course, if you are using the AC, it is not an option.


                                Marty
                                '99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
                                '98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
                                '84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
                                '88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now

                                Quote of the week:
                                Originally posted by Aaron
                                This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X