Fastest Hyrbrid Project

[Jacque8080]

I've got a '90 Cutlass Supreme with some Z34 suspension upgrades from a '95 Monte Carlo. But a tight suspension doesn't add horsepower. So I also swapped in a 3.4 DOHC engine from the same monte. However the car is slower than it was before. Mostly because the engine won't turn over. I'll turn the key to start and the driver info sys and hvac displays will dim out. It's not making any clicking sounds from the starter either. I was wondering what I should check next to get this beast growling. Also, the digital dash doesn't light up, or any exterior lighting. I used the small passenger side engine bay fuse panel from the monte, along with ECU, and engine wiring harness. However all the firewall side wiring is what was originally part of the Cutlass.

There are two wire from each terminal that the battery cable connects to. I've connected a ground to the chassis and the other to the engine. However I have connected a positive wire to the starter solenoid and I'm not sure what the other positive branch connects to, so I just wrapped it in electrical tape.

I'm looking for people who have done similar engine swaps and hope for some insight into what I've not done or done right.

Thanks,
MOe

[sharkey]

the other positive should be going into the fuse pannel.

id check all your grounds that ground the the motor, thats a good place to start. also, check your battery voltage when your cranking it. the battery could just be dead.

[RednBlack]

First thing I would do, if you haven't already, is run a remote starter switch to the solenoid and see if it turns over. Then work your way backwards from there. Check it first with key off. If it turns over, check it with key on, and see if it starts. If it does, your problem is in the starter wiring.

[Jacque8080]

Remote starter switch? Just a two pole switch to the small connector on the starter solenoid?

[RednBlack]

That's right. You can use just 2 wires, one to the battery side on the solenoid, the other to the small terminal, and touch them together. Switch is safer. Costs about 10 bucks at the cheapy stores.Make sure you have full voltage to the starter first though. Plus everything sharkey said. Grounds and all.

[Jacque8080]

I really appreciate all the help. I gotta get this swap done before my buddy finishes his turbo upgrade on his nissan 200sx.

<-- Import Killer to be

[RednBlack]

But you do know this is not a hybrid? 3.4 is stock for the Cutlass. I got a 94. Without modification, like the rest of us, you only get between 210 and 220 HP. We are all sad at this. (GMs fault) But!! There are ways! People have built headers. And there is the 13 deg exhaust retard. And some internal stuff. And as soon as sappy gets a car to play with, we might have a chip too! He's the one to ask about the computer. Mine is stock except for cold air intake, high flo filter, and Borla exhaust. (those made a hell of a difference) But, I can still only get high 15s. Barely, and I only did it once. Cold night. Stick around here and you can find all the info you need. I have seen several on here doing 14s.

[Anonymous]

I have seen several on here doing 14s.

Woot Woot

[RednBlack]

Call him an idiot or whatever. Like him or not. I have never met him. But, giving credit where it is due,..... Aaron built headers and he runs 14s. He has something goin' on. Beer for ya.

[Anonymous]

Call him an idiot or whatever. Like him or not. I have never met him. But, giving credit where it is due,..... Aaron built headers and he runs 14s. He has something goin' on. Beer for ya.

mmmmmmmmmmmm........beer........mmmmmmmmmmmmm

[dykz34]

Check your battery, if it isn't turning over and the lights are dimming more-so... that leads me to believe the battery is toast (I've had too many dead batteries do that in the FRIGID MN winters).

[Jacque8080]

Well, I saw an article on the internet (http://www.angelfire.com/ca2/34Performance/dohc.html). In short, it says that the produced 281 horse at the crank and only produces less "by cutting the fuel delivery and spark advance curves of the motor".

I might be naiive, but I'd like to undo those ecm changes and have 281 horse at the crank.

Also, I have hear a rumor about someone just changing valve springs and something else and that 3.4 DOHC shifts into the next gear at 9500 rpm. I thought these engines have forged pistons, rods, crankshaft, and a balanced bottom end. I have a second engine (and tranny) in the garage. It's out of a '96 Monte Z34 and it's going to be built to race. It's going to need to turn at least 9 grand, and crank 300 horse. If it doesn't produce enough power, I'll add a pair of t-3s (probably .60 a/r). My final objective is to crank 400 horse at the wheels - at all four wheels. I'll have to research, much later on, how similar or not the components from the lumina van were so I can get some AWD drive train components. I know all of this sounds lofty. But I am insane, so it's alright.


It's just that I live in a town where there is a plain old honda civic. The Cutlass has walked away from hondas before. But this one made me look like I had shifted into reverse. Most likely, it had a integra ls motor swap. For my pride's sake, I can't let things like that happen. I'm used to racing people, leaving them, and then telling them that I DO have half a trunk full of groceries and yes there are 5 people in the car.


Related to my project, I got some wire and a switch to try the remote start thing first thing tomorrow (had to work tonight - eww). I also got a multimeter, trying to be prepared for a worst case scenario.

[Jacque8080]

Oh, the battery I used was one I got at advanced auto parts earlier that day - brand new and build less than a month ago. However, I will check it with my new multimeter, once I figure out how to use it. Also, I used the side mounting posts - as is in all my w bodies - and racheted the battery cable on firmly. Finally, I heard water sloshing around when I was carrying the battery to the car, but I did not yet check the water level in the battery. During my car driving years, I have bought like 5 batteries and those all were good enough off the shelf to just drop in, connect, and drive.

I"ll post results of the remote start attempt and of the other recommendations made here probably before 1PM CST tomorrow. That's when I gotta leave to get to work on time. I'll probably end up requesting a couple of days off next week if the Cutlass isn't molesting pavement by then.

MOe

[RednBlack]

Lemme know when you hit 9500RPM and 300 HP. Probably need to get it to turn over first though.

[SappySE107]

You can just forget that article, it doesn't pertain to the version of the 3.4 DOHC we all have. The computer isnt gonna give you 281 hp. 9500 from valve springs...yipee...lotta good that does if you don't have any power there (or you can be ultra cool and kill your low end and put a box on your lower and call it a plenum...nevermind your car weighs 500 or more pounds over the fiero that the guy did that to). 300 hp at the crank wont take 9500 RPM but it will take some effort and modifications galore. Oh, and twin turbo...where in the hell are you gonna put those, the glove box? Stick with the single turbo or make it RWD so you have some real room.