Six_Shooter's money pit and time vampire... v.240Z

[Guest]

Well as of about 9:30 Thursday night, the LX9 240Z lives again.

[Guest]

This is a short video of the first start, Thursday night. The clacking is the valve train that needed to get some oil into the lifters and got quiet a few minutes later.

[Guest]

I've been driving the car for a couple days now, well since Thursday night.

I had a new pair of Falken RK615K tires put on the back on Friday, since the old back tires were bald... no idea why, probably just a bad pair... lol

The front tires were still good, so I want to run them out for at least another season, also Falkens, but FK452s, which are not made anymore.

I was able to test the wet weather traction of the RT615Ks this afternoon, and I'm pleasantly impressed. I can still easily overpower the traction, but far better than what I was expecting. The FK452s still shed water better than the RT615Ks, but I'm not white knuckling it in the wet like I was a couple of times with the worn out FK452s. lol The dry traction is very good, and seems to hook much harder than the FK425s ever did. It seems to take about 3 blocks of driving for them to get enough heat in them to bite, before that, they are pretty slick, but that's a relatively short distance to get hot enough.

The exhaust note seems to have mellowed out quite a bit, much closer to the sound I really want out of this car. There was a pin hole leak in one header where the primaries and collector attached, I wrapped the headers and Y-pipe and retarded the base timing by about 10 degrees or so, based on where I moved the pick up, I haven't actually measured/set base timing yet. I hope to do that tomorrow night.

[Guest]

So I've done a few things to the car...

I put my Liar Temp gauge back in the car, I call it the Liar, because it would always be about 10 degrees off what the ECM reported, but so far it seems to be less of a liar than the CTS that I just put in, which I am using the head location, where the temperature fluctuates a LOT and is always higher than than the thermostat location, where the Liar gauge probe is. BTW, the Liar gauge is an Autometer Sport Comp mechanical, 2 5/8". I think I will be going back to the other CTS I was using in a different spot.

I finally checked the base timing, 8 degrees dead on, which is 2 degrees less than it should be, but I can live with that. The car seems to like it, and with the mild tuning I've done, I don't think I'll worry about adding those extra 2 degrees of base timing.

Also, what the heck is going on here?



Wait, wut?


Yep, that's what is happening...






I still need to blend the inside, and add a few fittings to the intake, but this way I'll be able to literally slip it in place of the LA1 upper without modifying anything else. I could also do a an A-B comparison (dyno/track) very easily this way, looking at just the effects of the change in runner length and plenum volume, taking the throttle body out of the equation.

There was the annual "Remember When" Cruise this past Saturday where there were a couple photos of my car taken by the guy that runs Lug Nuts magazine, he posted them to the Lug Nuts Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/lugnutsmagazine/posts/291333111037356

[ForcedFirebird]

Good idea about welding the neck on for comparisons, but wouldn't an adapter plate function just as well?

[Guest]

No, the flange of the 3500 intake is already about 5 to 7 mm forward in comparison, and then adding an adapter plate would be another 8 mm minimum more forward (and move it more to the side, due to the angle). With the intake tubing I have, this would not fit well, if at all. This would also create a lot of turbulence at the transition from the adapter plate to inlet neck, that would require some creative additions to the adapter plate to reduce them. While the transition won't be ideal here, it will be much better than a simple adapter plate.

[Purple pit]

Not the best, but it's all I have. No I did not do it. The Eco guys were swapping larger intakes(using their smaller TB) and a flat adapter. Kept telling them they were hurting the flow. Showed them that and it didn't change anything. Just got to laugh I guess.

Very refreshing to hear someone speak of it after it fell on so many deaf ears.

Use to have a great video with the air/smoke in motion at different speeds on the same model. Talk about loss of throttle response.

[Guest]

It's not a hard concept to understand, at least I don't believe it is.

I was going to add a bunch of vacuum fittings to the UIM, but I've decided instead to change the way I have my vacuum stuff connected and move it all to a single vacuum manifold, and run one large vacuum line to the manifold.

[Purple pit]

Sometimes pressure waves and acoustic waves are hard to understand. Tried to tell them that too(of the bad effects on them), but nothing, just like talking to my computer. Well that can get my head spinning when trying understand just what is really happening above idle. 6k or even 2k gives me a headache (lol).

Like a vacuum block?

[Guest]

Vacuum block, vacuum manifold, potato, po-tat-oh.

[Purple pit]

Comfort term I guess(lol). Hair splitting.

[Superdave]

Six, I can't remember if I mentioned it but are you familiar with the "Rotsun" that Roadkill built?

this is one of the shows on it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcjC00J8FaM

[Guest]

Yes, very familiar with the Rotsun.

[Superdave]

then you must be familiar with the Crusher Camaro... I'd have humped it but the Holley guys were giving me dirty looks.

https://instagram.com/p/pM6p0eBzWY/

[Guest]

Before you post anymore Roadkill cars, I have seen all of the episodes. :P lol Yeah the Crusher Camaro is an interesting story.

Also went to the track tonight...

Best pass was a 12.71 @ 115. 60' was 2.0 IIRC (slips are still in the car, will get them out tomorrow). I had two other passes in the 12's, first pass was a 12.97, and a 12.89 after the 12.71. Then the track went away and ran a 13.5, at which point I called it a night, since I have too much gear in the car. I actually shifted it to 5th on a couple of the passes. lol I'm thinking of going to 3.73's once I get the new rear end built. I kinda wish I kept the 3.54's I had that would fit in my current diff, since they might have been a better gear than my current 3.90's. My run is over about the 1200' mark, after that, the car noses over, since there's no cam left. I think after gears, next will be cam. Somewhere in there I have to think about injectors, and I plan to upgrade my fuel system as well, since I think it's about getting maxed out now.