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Six_Shooter's money pit and time vampire... v.240Z

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  • #76
    Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
    if it was LHM that did it in.... I believe it is only one connection on the MEMCAL to disable it. perhaps break it out to a small switch(probably still inside the ECM, depending on accessibility?) and leave it in an open position, that way if it does attempt to go into LHM again, the engine will shut down instead and require some driver interaction to limp it home rather than opening the engine up again.
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    • #77
      DFI and ECM - Remanufactured memcals - I have a question about this seller I found on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-92-CAMARO-FIREBIRD-TPI-ECM-MEMCAL-AUJP-PROM-/190548044040?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5d8c6908 This guy is selling what looks like a remanufactured memcal that he then fits...


      that thread sparked my investigation of it and I had it figured out, but I can't find my notes on it... a look at the Ludis diagram for the 7730/27/49 (sheet 7) makes me think CAL42(which appears to be an oscillator signal to the RFD) was where I started.
      1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
      Latest nAst1 files here!
      Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

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      • #78
        Originally posted by The_Raven View Post

        Dave, go back a page, we posted at the same time, and there's carnage pictures, I think you'll be impressed.
        Damn, I missed those... Nice work!
        Past Builds;
        1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
        1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
        Current Project;
        1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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        • #79
          Originally posted by Superdave View Post
          Damn, I missed those... Nice work!
          I thought you'd like those.

          I dropped my block, crank and heads off to the machine shop this week.

          The block had some rusty cylinders since it's sat open for a few years, the crank was similar, some rusty journals.

          I picked up the crank tonight after polishing, the block has been honed and looks good, but needs to take a swim before I can pick it up. I should be able to pick up the block at least tomorrow night, I hope the heads will be ready as well. I plan to try to get the short block together this weekend.

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          • #80
            It begins...

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            • #81
              Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
              http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-e...d-memcals.html

              that thread sparked my investigation of it and I had it figured out, but I can't find my notes on it... a look at the Ludis diagram for the 7730/27/49 (sheet 7) makes me think CAL42(which appears to be an oscillator signal to the RFD) was where I started.
              Haha, I posted in that thread...

              Anyway, it's interesting that you pulled the idea of disabling LHM with a switch from that thread, now that I read it with that in mind, I can see where the idea might have come from.

              Also I have jwscab's home made AUJP MEMCALs. Neat little pieces that I plan to one day get back to testing with. Now that school is done, I might be able to get my new bench set-up and do some real testing on it.

              I might, just for the time being pull out the RFD chips and just use resistors to set the firing scheme and see if that cuts the engine when LHM is enabled.

              Another thing I was thinking about the other day was the Ostrich and whether that could be causing a problem for me here. I'm still going to swap out the ECM, since I do suspect there's an issue, but I may just burn an EEPROM and see how that works out as well. This car has only ever seen the use of an Ostrich over the 6+ years it's been injected. There in that tie there's be at least 2 different Ostriches used at one point or another.

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              • #82
                Originally posted by The_Raven View Post
                I might, just for the time being pull out the RFD chips and just use resistors to set the firing scheme and see if that cuts the engine when LHM is enabled.
                that should certainly do it. I can't think of them doing anything to normal operation outside of the hardware cylinder select.
                1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
                Latest nAst1 files here!
                Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

                Comment


                • #83
                  Crank and cam are in, rings gapped, and block painted.

                  I should be able to get the short block done tomorrow.

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                  • #84
                    Looks like you've been busy
                    http://www.v6z24.com/registry/ginobeats/
                    http://www.v6z24.com/registry/ginobeats/2

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                    • #85
                      Holy crap, it's Ginobeats!!!?

                      How's it been man?

                      Yes, been sorta busy. lol

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                      • #86
                        Doing good, keeping busy, still got the Z Pm me your #, I'm not sure if the one I have is still good
                        http://www.v6z24.com/registry/ginobeats/
                        http://www.v6z24.com/registry/ginobeats/2

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                        • #87
                          Obligatory "I have head studs"picture:
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                          With the addition of the main studs I needed to modify the windage tray. I decided to just raise the area that interfered with the oil pan, as opposed to modifying all of the mounting points, which I did consider, but this was easier and I don't think it will have any appreciable drawbacks over other ways.
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                          I made a new engine strut since my last one broke away at one of the anchor points. I had always planned to go to a urethane mounted strut, just wasn't planning on doing it now, but no time like when the engine is coming out anyway.
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                          Just a shot of the coolant bypass that I installed, this is a better picture than I had previous.
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                          I hope to have the new long block installed tomorrow... Today...? It is early in the morning here as I type this. lol

                          I need to get another harmonic damper since I realized last night that mine has a groove worn into it that would explain the seeping of oil at the front main. The local wreckers has one that I will pull from a 3.4 in the morning.

                          I also have the old short block ready to pull, with only one trans bolt left in it. If I had more space in the garage it would have already been out, but I don't really have space to have a second engine sit right now.

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                          • #88
                            don't waste your time going to the junkyard for a new harmonic balancer. you can buy a sleeve for it from autozone or what not for a few bucks. I have used them with great success. It will save you a lot of time.

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                            • #89
                              Yup. Redi-sleeve. For parts with a groove worn in them, I have also had success in taking the spring out of the seal, "unscrewing" the last link, chopping a few coils off, then reinstall spring.
                              Links:
                              WOT-Tech.com
                              FaceBook
                              Instagram

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                              • #90
                                I'm not a fan of the repair sleeves, I bought a couple balancers today, both are better than what I have, so I'll run one of them. I had each one out in about 5 minutes. Both from 3.4 Firebirds, go figure, I couldn't find a gen1 3.4 back in teh day when I would have built one (with FWD top end), and now I can find them almost all day long.

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