What coolant outlet?
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3900 into 2005 subaru legacy AWD
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holy cow that is alot to cut out of the trans!
worried about that at all? I wouldn't assume so considering you did it lol14.63@92.9 -Full LX9 with CAI, 65MM TB, 2.5in DP, Borla Cat-Back, Crappy tires, Quick tune (Dyno Soon)
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Originally posted by farmerz24 View PostI will be running the megasquirt ms-pro.
-is the crank a 58x or 60-2 wheel?
-what about the cam. what pattern is it?
-coilpack wiring... there are 6 pins going to the coil. what are they? I know its not like the older DIS style coilpack. Can i drive these coils directly from the MS? are they like LS1 coils?
Returnless fuel rail... Can i simply T into the fuel feed line and then connect the return line with regulator to the additional T port ?sigpic
"When you don't do anything, you have plenty of time to post questions that don't mean anything tomorrow."
- Ben
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If you have both lines running to the bay though on a front engine car you could do that return-less setup in the engine bay area. That would eliminate the need to run a vac line to the fuel tank to run the regulator. I know on a fiero that's probably damn close to the motor already.
What's the reason for not keeping the Legacy Flywheel and starter assy? I find it odd that you would go through the trouble of adapting the trans and engine block to fit a starter for a completely different engine and trans combo. Seems like excess work when I feel like the Legacy flywheel could have been easily adapted to the crank with the space you have from that spacer plate.Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 03-06-2014, 03:02 PM.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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Using the leggy flywheel would require re drill the bolt pattern. I'm using an off the shelf part. Plus the suby starters nose is soo long I would have to drill Ito the block to get it to fit. Honestly the 5.3 starter is the simplest option. The snout on the suby starter is so long, whereas the 5.3 one will mount in roughly the same place.
Plus now I have a v8 starter, should crank over much better at -40c.
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Does anyone know what the cam sensor ring configuration for this motor is? Is it a 4x and the same as an earlier 3x00 cam? At what position is it in relation to crankshaft tdc?
Also, will the engine start up with no power or signal applied to the Vvt actuator? You would think it should still start or at least cough and fire ?
Thx for all the help. Currently awaiting my laser cut flanges and plates so I can continue. Mega squirt should be here soon so I can start wiring that up. Need to find some ls truck coils with the heat sink if anyone knows of any ?
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It will fire up if the fuel and mechanical timing is set right.
I suggest locking the vvt in position or making a fixed phase delete gear just to keep it in one position and together at all times.Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.
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If the Vvt is locked full advance with no power to it, wouldn't it start up at full advance also as during starting is there really enough oil pressure to work the cam phaser?
Also does anyone know of the cam and crank sensors are powered by 5 or 12v?
They are both 3 wire sensors. Also anyone know the crank wheel degrees past #1 tdc in which the crank sensor passes the missing tooth ?
If not I will need to measure
Ms-pro arrived today, going to be wiring it up this weekend !
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Thanks for all the answers guys.
Had to make a new trans mount as I moved the engine/trans back an inch and the trans hit the stock one.
Here's what I came up with. A plate will be welded in connecting the two tubes. It will attach to the 2 studs seen in the picture.
Also here is the starter plate that will secure the starter to engine/trans.
It will be done pretty much like this:
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