IIRC you had the block modified for oil squirters on all 6 pistons. How difficult was this and what exactly did you have to do?
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Project "independence day"IRS and 3500 swap
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Looks good as usual!
Originally posted by caffeine View PostIIRC you had the block modified for oil squirters on all 6 pistons. How difficult was this and what exactly did you have to do?
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The car is being made as a dual purpose auto-x and street, so there will be some degree of driver comfort.
And no... I the material just aint thick enough to modify the block for additional oil-squirters, which is sad, because them I could get away with a good deal more timing advance when it comes time to tune.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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Originally posted by Jonpro03 View PostYay! 3500 + turbo + megasquirt!
It will allow sequential fuel injection and full ignition curve control. I will also be running true COP's as opposed to a wasted spark.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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Originally posted by Driver_10 View PostThere's been a few changes on the current set-up. Ill be rocking a MS3-pro ECU for the car instead.
It will allow sequential fuel injection and full ignition curve control. I will also be running true COP's as opposed to a wasted spark."I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
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Got some more stuff ordered while in Alaska. I went ahead and picked up a Spec stage 2+ clutch. Somehow, I ended up paying for and getting two (Ill just keep the other in case I toast the first)
A touch over 550ft/lbs of torque holding capacity, and "hopefully" chatter free performance will make me a happy gear head.
Im also picking up this little darling. It will help reduce weight and simplify the body wiring. It also has some other cool features like wireless start, CAN control secuity and on-board diagnostic. (not cheap though... nearly 2000 bucks. Bye bye one weeks paycheck X_X)
Iv'e got 3 and a half weeks left at sea before I get back home (and then only two weeks to work on the car) so the car STILL wont be finished before I leave the house in late September, but I will keep folks up to date on the progress none the less.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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Here is another "look at the fancy shit I bought" update to my build thread. Its something to look at until I finish some more work on the damned thing.
For starters, I had an opportunity to get a Motec M800 for $2600 (The big secret that I was eluding to earlier for those who keep up on FB), but that deal disintegrated. So, it looks like Im sticking to the MS3-pro as planned. I picked it up for $1200 + s/h. I also bought a 3-bar MAP sensor to go with it for barometric correction. (My modded, unused MS-2 will be up for sale soon)
It came with CD, harness and the sealed ECU.
I also got a PLX wideband O2 sensor w/ touchscreen gauge. Its got some snazzy features, including on-the-fly data-logging and changeable value display.
Im got this AEM "peak-n-hold" driver unit for Low-z injectors. The MS3-pro cant safely use low impedence injectors without wiring in resistors. And even then, idle value might get compromised. The box simplifies things quite a bit. Its also a bit less messy than the DIY driver cards I assembled. (Which I will use for another project)
200 bucks, used.
I got 6' 85lb injectors for the intended E85 use. Should flow enough "corn-whiskey" to support 550 hp
Im still lacking an E85 sensor and a few tidbits, but otherwise, the engine management purchases are done.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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Back to fabbing stuff... My 2010 Camaro rotors returned from machining. I went ahead and mounted the front brakes today for trial fitment. I used a spare "1-inch" wheel spacer (final fit will use a thinner spacer).
So far, theres no caliper clearance problems with the Corvette 18 x 9.5 wheels. The only issue seems to be a bit of tire contact with the front sway bar. Perhaps a bit of engineering is in order, me-thinks.
I went ahead and jigged the main cross-support tacked in, and I also got the rear control-arm brackets welded into their correct place. It took some time to get them both correct, but I've got the load angle "dead on" correct. (to within 1/5 +/- a degree) The hubs are good and centered also.
The cross-support and rear chassis are made of 11 gauge, steel, 4x2, square channel. It should provide some rugged strength and unmatched structural rigidity. Ill have the remaining lengths cut and welded by tomorrow evening. (Gotta love a plasma cutter. )
Pardon the shitty pic quality...
Thats it for today/ night... Im going to sleep.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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Iv'e got some good progress on the rear cradle. The tollerances are near perfect, with less than 1mm asymmetry in any direction. Other than battling with mild air contamination in a few spots, the welding went well. A bit of clean-up and some final welding on the body, and it will be time to pull out the pipe bender and get started on the roll-cage.
The tops of the pillars were plasma cut and leveled with one another, and another 4X2 channel was welded to tie the two of them together. This was the most difficult spot to get squared. I also had to cut and re-position one set of the trailing arm brackets since it was 1.25cm off.
Afterwards, I used the cross-bar to mount the two legs of the rear chassis 35inches back. (I still have too much sheet metal to cut out of the way for me to have fully extended them to the rear bulkhead.) The square cuts were done by free-hand. Im getting better with the plasma torch.
Like a glove...
The near final result is looking pretty good so far. The next step is cutting out the remaining sheet-metal thats left in the rear of the car and tying it in to the cradle chassis. THAT I will start tomorrow.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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Why isn't this car in your garage? I wondered that from the start... wouldn't it make working on it easier?
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View PostWhy isn't this car in your garage? I wondered that from the start... wouldn't it make working on it easier?Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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I was kinda guessing that after looking over the photos I can see it's packed with fun toys.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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Small update...
I went ahead and modified a set of 3400 fuel rails to keep up with the extra fuel demands of E85. Originally, I used a set of WOTTECH an-6 fuel stainless fittings with a single an-6 fuel line.
A single an-6 will starve the 6, 85lb injectors at full hump, so I got to work. I went ahead and dissembled the fuel rails and cut off the cross-over tube and shrader fitting.
After the crimped lip that holds the cross-over lube and shrader on are carefully cut off, the remainder is simply o-ringed and pulls out cleanly.
Afterward, a set of an-6 male fittings are welded on and a plug is cut and welded into the cross-over port to seal it off.
This will allow me to use dual pumps and a "through rail", recirculating, fuel regulator. The last step will be to run down to the local metal coating shop and get the rails cleaned and anodized to protect them from alcohol corrosion (that will happen on monday).Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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