G6 05 (3.5L, VIN 8) into 99' Alero

[nixtux]

I'm not pulling the motor or swapping it, but I was wondering how difficult it would be to do? The mechanic doing the work knows his stuff so if it's not
too difficult and he'd be willing, it would be nice since I can get 3.5's with
as low at 17k on them. 3.4's always have 90-110 so if the 3.5 is a option
it would be nice since i can get the local.

Thanks in advance on any advice.

[gar70614]

ur gonna need a external crank trigger from wot-tec.com. and u will retain the 3400 fuel system, ignition system, some of the coolant system. read the sticky on the swap, and at grandamgt.com in the how to section there is a hole to that will pertain to ur exact situation.

[gar70614]

o and throttle body adapter or use ur 3400 upper intake and throttle body but loose a lil power.

[nixtux]

So I'll need to purchase the 3500 Plenum TB Adapter
And External Crank Trigger.

I found a 3500 with 4,000 miles.

The 3400 is pretty old, so I should probably replace the orings for injectors and probably
the injectors too.

Fel-Pro - Fuel Injection O-Ring Set

Are BWD - Fuel Injectors any good?

As for the coolant system, what pieces are needed? Just the lines or stuff from the
engine? If parts from the engine, I probably should get them new.

[Superdave]

it's pretty much a direct swap.


you'll use the hard coolant lines, fuel rail/injectors, motor mounts, crank pulley/24x sensor, knock sensor, OPSU, thermostat neck, all the engine accessories, ignition module/coils, exhaust manifolds and you can even just swap over the 3400's plenum and TB to make it easier. You'll have to drill/tap the 3500's LIM for the 3400's 3 wire CTS.

you will need the external crankshaft trigger from wot-tech.com, there is no getting around that.

pretty easy swap, and a quick way to gain some power.


all this assuming the '05 G6 has the LX9 3500 which it probably does.

[gar70614]

fine man just show me up with ur more detailed parts list lol

[asylummotorsports]

And locktite those crank trigger bolts.

[Superdave]

And locktite those crank trigger bolts.

Lol!

[gar70614]

o good call on the loctite and all mount bolts too.

[nixtux]

Assuming I want to use the 3500 plenum, what's that involve?

Thanks

[nixtux]

This this motor work? Is that pre-vvt? I'm not sure what the 'Z' means.

MALIBU 04-05 4th VIN digit "Z", 3.5L (VIN 8, 8th digit)

or

Engine Assembly : MALIBU 06 3.5L (VIN 8, 8th digit)

[robertisaar]

Z is the eighth digit in the VIN: motor. 04-05 is definitely a non-VVT motor...

[nixtux]

I'm putting together a parts list and upgrades for the engine before it goes
into the car. The motor is 05 Malibu, 4th VIN digit "Z", 3.5L (VIN 8, 8th digit)
with 20,900.

The transmission is a 2005 Grand AM GT with 12k.

I'm going to order a pair of S&S headers, non-ceramic coated. But I figured
those can go on after the engine is in (correct me if I'm wrong.)

From the wot-tech store

3500 Plenum TB Adapter
62mm Billet Throttle Body
External Crank Trigger (out of stock though, any ideas when they will be
available?)
3500 Swap FPR Bracket - I think this would be useful?
HPTuners VCM Suite Pro
1999+ N body Billet Mount

I'm thinking of doing a cam too using the selection service but figured I'd
get some advice/ideas before moving on that.

Not looking to race and the likes, just a nice smooth running engine with some
kick! I figure I'm already over 3k into this car now so might as well go all out.
I'm not familiar with tuning so ideally keeping that limited would be ideal or
some reading suggestions for it. But I figured get the tuner for the
transmission, change the final drive to 3.29, I've read you can also adjust
line pressure too making shifts better.

Nothing too major, but ideas on lifters, springs, ect. The best parts
to change for longevity when having the cam installed. Any precautions or
things to do and/or not to do. Stuff that will help performance but keeping
the engine solid.

Exhaust suggestions for the headers, I don't like loud. Best way to get a
stock sound but still good air flow. I think that makes sense? I'm a noob
on this subject.

I was also thinking about having a undercoat applied to avoid rust and the
likes. While the transmission and motor are out, I was thinking of having
the sub-frame coated as well. I'm not sure on this and searching has
returned mixed results. It is Minnesota and they use loads of sand and
salt on the roads. Waxing and washing does a good job avoiding rust on
the body, but what about under the car?

Thanks in advance.

[pocket-rocket]

I like rubberized underbody coat myself. While doing rear suspension work to my truck, I took the bed off, sand blasted the frame and coated it with rubberized underbody coat. For the subframe? Blast it and coat it with a couple layers of that spray paint style truck bed liner so it holds up to a jack better then rubberized underbody coat would when it comes to maintenance time.

[PCGUY112887]

And locktite those crank trigger bolts.

Why do you say that?