65 MGB Engine Swap

[geoff65b]

Hi, I'm new to this site, I was wondering about performance mods and/or thoughts about the 3.4L crate motor offered for sale on numerous sites. I am wanting to put this into a '65 MGB, concerned mainly with a normally aspirated motor - carb and distributor - something I can fix w/o a computor, in the dark, on the side of the road - if you know what I mean. I'm an old guy so be gentle, I don't have the tech skills for the newer stuff. I have a couple of lines on the conversion - BMC and KillerBV6 - just wanted to know about making horsepower in the motor - no juice bottles, turbos, superchargers, etc.. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreicated. Thanks, Geoff

[BMC]

Hi Geoff,

Lots of comments on the mgexperience.net forums about this as well as the britishv8.org website. I don't want to take away from the importance of this website, as it is the best source for GM 60 degree information!

As for performance to the crate motor 3.4L or the L32 1993-95 3.4L SFI engine, you can carb or inject either. Performance camshaft options are list out here as well as the S10 forums for the 2.8L, the Edelbrock lower intake and upper... Kind of. The best bet for the upper intake for a 4 barrel is the CCE lowered CNC machined intake manifold. This allows for the stock Bonnet without a bulge. We offer a MGRV8 type bonnet as well, but it all depends on the direction you plan to go.

Back to stuff- performance options- stock GM rocker arms are reported to be approximately 1.5 but are all over the board so a set of 1.5 roller tips are just a hair better if you need that 1 BHP. Another choice is the 1.6 ratio roller tip with or without a cam option.

Porting cylinder heads is a great way to go if you need more than stock.

We sell a RWD Alloy flywheel, I know of no other source for the large RWD flywheel.

Gearing in the T5 and the rear end and tires make performance even better. You cant add a 3,000 BHP engine without having traction. You need to consider the entire package. Even my Dad's MGB with a heavily built 1.8L I4 B series needed suspension improvements to a minimal degree to put the power down. With twice the torque, you will too.

Here is my dyno chart on this site:

http://60degreev6.com/forum/images/garage/attach/garage_vehicle-11-12400022281.jpg

I will DARE say that as of this moment, I have the highest dyno numbers that are backed up with a chart. (Nudge nudge guys!!!!!)

Continuing on, you can boost compression with a set of custom pistons, deck the block, mill the heads and ALL the stuff you can do to any engine. Lots of ways to add power.

Hope this helps,

-BMC.

[BMC]

Forgot to say that the dyno chart for my engine is for a very-very-very-VERY stock 3.4L SFI L32 with dirty injectors and all the rest.

-BMC.

[geoffinbc]

I believe cleaning up the ports of the cylinder heads and port matching them to the gasket and doing the same to any intake you use goes a very long way in terms of flow. I found quite a lot of miss match on my stock intake. Plus there was a lot of material that was easily removed just to match up to the stock gasket size.

The Crate engine has a great cam and great valve spring for street performance. The only thing I would be tempted to do is install exhaust valve stem seals (same as a Small Block Chev) and change the rockers for 1.6 ratio rollers. The COMP Magnum Rollers are a killer deal for under $150