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3500 in a Trooper (RWD)

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  • 3500 in a Trooper (RWD)

    Would someone kindly post some pictures of the motor mount bosses on a 3500 please? I'm investigating a RWD application in a Trooper for a friend. I can post some pics and measurements of the stock 2.8L bosses and mounts for comparison tomorrow probably.

    Anything else I should consider other than the mounts and the oil pan? This will be a full multiport and OBDII conversion.

    We would like to use the engine as stock as possible.
    '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
    '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
    '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
    '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

  • #2
    Exhaust manifolds and accessory mounting will need to be addressed.
    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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    • #3
      This is about the best I have on hand, if not I can head out to the garage and get something a bit better.

      Also you may want to check Dave's gallery (superdave) http://www.3500z.com/Gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=32 (hopefully he doesn't mind me posting that) as you may find something better in there.

      (edit: WOW I have never even posted here...LOL...)
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        /also the 3500 TB is electronic, not cable-driven.

        Since you are in the Isuzu, the starter is in the right location.

        I can take some pics/measurements when I go back to the shop (for the bolt locations if you don't get them 1st)...
        Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 01-11-2009, 08:22 PM.
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        • #5
          Here are some photos of the 2.8L and 3.4L (F-body). I have two of each engine, one of each with the mounts installed.

          2.8L








          3.4L






          '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
          '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
          '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
          '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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          • #6
            Ok, I'm thinking it'll be a 3400, based on the left motor mounts. 3400 has 2/3 bosses, 3500 has 0/3. I think it will be reasonable to modify the motor mount to pick up another boss. Right side motor mount bosses look good on both.





            '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
            '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
            '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
            '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

            Comment


            • #7
              Ooops, thought I already posted this. Considering my research so far, I'm thinking this will be a 3400 swap.

              I was assuming a need for custom exhaust manifolds/headers, not too worried about that.

              What exactly precludes us from using the steel oil pan? Is there any chance of using the timing cover and brackets from an iron head? If not, I'd try to leave the entire accessory bracket setup intact on the 3400. I had partial success with that on my 3.4L swap.
              '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
              '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
              '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
              '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

              Comment


              • #8
                The accy brackets from your RWD are easily modded to work on the 3400 or 3500 heads by opening up a couple of the holes with a larger diameter drill, or drilling an additional hole.

                The RWD timing cover will fit, again, one or two of the holes needs to be opened up to allow for the larger mounting bolts. The timing cover will also need the top tab cut off to clear the 3x00 LIM. There is also an extra coolant passage to pay attention to on the pass side of the RWD cover. Not all cover have it, but if yours does, you will need to block it off some how, or it will leak a 1/4" hole of coolant all over the place.

                The oil pans are completely different, but if you don't mind losing the extra bolts in the mains, it appears to me that a little modification will make the steel pan work on the FWD blocks...







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                • #9
                  I went to the local yard and looked at the Olds Alero that I'll be getting the engine from, I think I could keep the front end of the 3400 intact will all it's accessory brackets. So assuming we'd keep the 3400 timing cover, do you think the steel pan could still be made to work? But now that I think back, we'd need to turn the UIM 180-degrees and I don't know how that would clear the front.

                  What would you do? Remember, I need my oil pan to look like this to clear the front axle:





                  Last edited by Canyonero; 01-12-2009, 04:42 PM.
                  '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                  '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                  '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                  '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    you'll have to flip the LIM as well unless you want a really long upper radiator hose.. lol
                    Past Builds;
                    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                    Current Project;
                    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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                    • #11
                      True enough. Got pics of the LIM?

                      (nevermind, I have a LIM here.)
                      Last edited by Canyonero; 01-13-2009, 11:38 AM.
                      '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                      '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                      '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                      '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You can't use the steel oil pan on a genIII engine. The bolt pattern at the block is VERY different. You would also lose the crossbolting of the mains.

                        You could have your aluminium oil pan modified to be like the steel 4x4 pan. You will also need to modify the windage tray.

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                        • #13
                          I talked to the owner of the trooper wanting the swap a couple days ago, we looked over the engines, a bunch of pics, and the 3400 top end I have in the shop. I don't know which way he'll go with it. The iron heads are just so much easier to work with in the Trooper. I think the 3400 will physically bolt in easy enough, the big concern is the oil pan and interference with the LIM and UIM when point them forward.

                          I'm not familliar with that extra coolant passage ForcedFirebird was talking about. Don't recall anything on my Trooper or Camaro covers.
                          '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                          '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                          '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                          '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            On the RWD timing covers, there's about a 1/4" hole on the back of it, right side, behind where the large hose connects. The RWD blocks have a passage here, the 3x00's do not (open to the ouside), you will see what I mean when you get the two blocks/timing covers together.

                            The other two things you will have to deal with is the 3x00 coolant neck on the LIM interferes with the tab that sticks up on top of the timing cover, and depending what alt bracket you use, it may interfere with the TB or linkage.
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                            • #15
                              Something a little JB Weld can fix?

                              I think most the clearance issues can be mitigated by eliminating the AC compressor. It would be nice to keep the AC though. Alternatively, it would fit if we could get the front from a 3.1L like yours.
                              '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                              '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                              '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                              '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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