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2001 olds alero 3.4 LA1 swap to 3500 LX9

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  • 2001 olds alero 3.4 LA1 swap to 3500 LX9

    I have had constant issues with the 3400 in an 2001 alero. Finally after 160000 it has become more cost affective to buy a 3500 LX9 engine from a 2005 G6 then to try to rebuild the 3400. Can some one give me some detail as to what difficulties I'm going to run into. I have seen some of the other discussions about this same subject but on much older cars. Please keep in mind with your answers I have some car experience but this will be the biggest job I've tried to do.
    Will the sensors match up (for the most part)
    do I need to swap the plenum with the 3400
    does the front cover need to be swapped out.
    Will the ac mounts work from a 2001 to 2005.

  • #2
    Need external crank sensor setup sold at wot-tech. Bracket from trans to motor needs drilling out and modding. 3500 plenum can be used and makes more power, but 3400 can be used in the meantime as the 3500 takes a few more things to get it to work. (hell I have one on my 3100) Front valve cover are the same. A/C mounts, not sure, but can be made to work or just don't use the bottom bolt.

    Search and you'll find a lot of answers. You'll want to swap over your 3400 fuel rails and you should tune the car with a tuner for max driveability and power.
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

    Comment


    • #3
      Any options vs external crank sensor.

      Thanks for the infor. I'm assuming there is no way around the external trigger. I also have to pull the crank pulley and swap that with the 3400 to get the use of the 24x sensor. Don't I ?

      The reason I'm askin about the external crank sensor is at $160 it's becoming less and less cost affective. And as much as I wish I was in the same position as a lot of you on this web site, in that these are fun cars for you, and some thing that you enjoy improving, this is only my work car that I need to run and be a little more reliable then it has been recently. I guess in a nut shell I need it to run, some what efficiently but not screamin. Honestly I have bought GM cars mainly chevy's all my life and even worked for GM for about 5 years out of college but this is the cheapest most Mickey mouse car I have ever owned. But, when its paid for and for $500 you can get it runnin with an engine with 140000 less miles why would you not.

      Sorry, Please ignore my rant and if you could share the knowledge on that external crank sensor. On this 3500 did they combine the two senors or do away with the 24x sensor, put it in a different spot that I'm not seeing or what.

      Comment


      • #4
        The reason for needing the external trigger is because GM change the INTERNAL trigger on the 3500s, from a 7 tooth to a 54 (56?) tooth trigger. The older PCMs cannot interpret this signal, therefore the external trigger is used.
        -Brad-
        89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
        sigpic
        Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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        • #5
          Yup, only other way is to remove the tone ring on the crank and isntall a new custom 7x one so that you can use the old style sensor. One person has done this that I know of. But that's more hassle than just bolting on the external sensor. And yes you'll need to swap 3400 pulley for the 24x and the 3500 one is huge anyway.
          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
          Original L82 Longblock
          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

          Comment


          • #6
            New question, Old engine 01 3.4 has a oil level sensor on the bottom of the pan. Is is only for the titled purpose or does it have another function? Basically will the computer function with out it? I think I know the answer but I wanted to see if any one had any history with the issue. I am assuming it just triggers the low oil light and that's all. The 05 3.5 doesn't have the sensor. I think I can swap the pans but I was ready to put the engine in the car when I noticed. Had some help with the disconnect of the old and didn't know it was there till now. Anybody got any help?

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            • #7
              Level sensor is only for a dummy light if you loose oil, but you're pretty screwed if that happens anyways. You can't swap pans between 3500/3400, just do away with the wiring harness. You either leave it open, or ground it and it see's it as full of oil. Easy to figure out which and tuck up somewhere.

              If you get a light with-out the sensor connected, connect the wires and it should go off.
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

              Comment


              • #8
                Trans slams into drive after engine swap

                Got the engine in and it runs like a top but it slams into drive, jars the whole car. Doesn't do this in reverse. Does anyone have any idea what the issue would be. I didn't have this problem prior to the swap. Have I missed a sensor some where? Any insight would be good.

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