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Frankenstien in progress, found speed bump.

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  • Frankenstien in progress, found speed bump.

    OK, the price was right, besides, I needed a test bed.
    chassis: 1986 Olds 88
    Spun a rod in the 3.8, threw out the motor.

    new motor, 1997 Olds Aurora 4.0L v-8, bone stock.

    I got the motor, trans, radiator, stock harness, every module under the dash and any block box I saw in the car. It took me 2 hours to pull the motor and trans in the junk yard, and 8 FREAKING hours to get the harness out! Next 4.0L gets custom ecu and I'll make the harness.

    Now to make it work.

    Speed bump: Passkey. Yes the little box that reads the resistance of the key. I don't have the key, and since I'm using the stock 1986 chassis and column, I don't have a resistor sensor in the column either. The car was in the junk yard. I do have the vin#. But, Isn't there a way to by-pass this thing? Like just by-passing a POS aftermarket alarm? I am looking at a diagram for the pass-key module, I see 2 circuits that are fuel and starter disable, both have to do with the pass key module communicating to the PCM. So, I wonder, can I just not wire it in, bypass the starter enable relay, and supply ground to the fuel enable circuit off the pcm? Should work right?
    sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
    A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
    Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
    Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
    PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

  • #2
    Eh, dunno, the ECM probably won't fire the injectors if it doesnt have the signal..

    IIRC the passkey signal to the ECM is a certain voltage at a certain frequency. You could rig a voltage regulator LM317 comes to mind, and then a 555 timer to do the frequency. Or buy a bypass module which woulddo the same.
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

    Comment


    • #3
      Of course there is the other option, I was wrong about the stock key, it does have a resistor in it, so I geuss i could wire it all in and then replace the passkey module with a new one and program it to the stock '86 key. I'd really rather not have the module at all.
      sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
      A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
      Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
      Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
      PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

      Comment


      • #4
        Well the problem lies in you not having the key. When the passkey fails, most people will measure the resistance on the key, and "hot wire" the resistor directly in the wires. How do you know the value of the resistor needed without the key?
        Links:
        WOT-Tech.com
        FaceBook
        Instagram

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          Well the problem lies in you not having the key. When the passkey fails, most people will measure the resistance on the key, and "hot wire" the resistor directly in the wires. How do you know the value of the resistor needed without the key?
          Rheostat?
          Past Builds;
          1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
          1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
          Current Project;
          1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Superdave View Post
            Rheostat?
            Isn't a rheostat voltage-based? If there is a resistance rheostat, you would think it will work, just measre the resistance as you test, and place the proper resistor in line
            Links:
            WOT-Tech.com
            FaceBook
            Instagram

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
              Isn't a rheostat voltage-based? If there is a resistance rheostat, you would think it will work, just measre the resistance as you test, and place the proper resistor in line
              you'd just wire in the rheostat and turn it till the car tried to start.. then measure the resistance and solder in a resistor.


              I seem to remember seeing that on the 3rd gen boards a long time ago...
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

              Comment


              • #8
                rheostat = variable resistor (potentiometer). Yeah you could try that, but it might take a while..

                Do a search and see if common values are used... I think how the passkey works is it will start for a few secs then shut off. So you may be doing that over and over.
                sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                Original L82 Longblock
                with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                Comment


                • #9


                  It could be disabled in the chip in the OBD1 days, not sure about OBD2 though...

                  I'd personally try running that engine on OBD1 with a wiring harness from a TPI 305 Camaro and the propper code. I'm sure there would be other hurtles to overcome though...
                  Past Builds;
                  1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                  1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                  Current Project;
                  1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                  Comment


                  • #10


                    VATS # (K)OHMS (Set your meter to the 20k ohm setting)

                    1覧覧 0.402
                    2覧覧 0.523
                    3覧覧 0.681
                    4覧覧-0.887
                    5覧覧-1.130
                    6覧覧-1.470
                    7覧覧-1.870
                    8覧覧-2.370
                    9覧覧-3.010
                    10覧覧3.740
                    11覧覧4.750
                    12覧覧6.040
                    13覧覧7.500
                    14覧覧9.530
                    15覧覧11.801
                    -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                    91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                    92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                    94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                    Originally posted by Jay Leno
                    Tires are cheap clutches...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      fined the resistance of the key and wire up the correct resistor? this worked in a scrap car we feilded for fun, im not sure if its a permanent solution, but it worked for a couple hours while we trashed the car
                      1994 Cavalier Z24, 5 speed swap, 3500 LX9 (summer ride)
                      1998 Lumina LS, (SS) L67 3800 S/C swap (winter ride)
                      1999 Honda CBR600 F4, 600cc DOHC I4, cammed.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well since the VATS unit needs to see the resistance to let the car run, if it is wired in permanently it will be a permanent solution. At least GM didn't use that many resistance values making it easy to find the right one.
                        -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                        91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                        92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                        94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                        Originally posted by Jay Leno
                        Tires are cheap clutches...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Since I work with them everyday, I went to my local dealer and they looked up the vin#, found out the key number, got me a key, they had in stock, ohm'd it, I bought resistor, a buck, and wired it in, whole comp system lit up perfectly! Thx guys!
                          sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                          A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                          Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                          Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                          PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

                          Comment

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