Has anyone had a chance to look over the wiring? What do I still need to hook up for a manual tranny with no A/C. I am going to go hook up the ignition wire now and some of the grounds...past that i am really not sure what else I need to hook up. Thanks for any help.
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I didn't need to hook anything from my tranny into the ECU. I think I could have done the VSS, but didn't. You probably don't have a VSS anyway. If you have all the sensors, etc hooked up, and you have power... try to start it.
As for the Vac stuff, what is the question? There is a small vac line for the MAP and FPR. And a large vac line to the brakes. I have a vac line that goes into the cab for who-knows-what and the cruise control.
I was going to take a picture, but my camera battery went dead.Last edited by Canyonero; 05-31-2008, 11:46 AM.'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
'96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
'92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
'71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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Originally posted by Canyonero View PostI didn't need to hook anything from my tranny into the ECU. I think I could have done the VSS, but didn't. You probably don't have a VSS anyway. If you have all the sensors, etc hooked up, and you have power... try to start it.
As for the Vac stuff, what is the question? There is a small vac line for the MAP and FPR. And a large vac line to the brakes. I have a vac line that goes into the cab for who-knows-what and the cruise control.
I was going to take a picture, but my camera battery went dead.
It looks like from the pcv valve open nipple i possibly nee to plug in the Evap Solenoid into that possibly.
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There should have been an image attached to this. But it's not working, and picasa is also sucking. I'll email it...Last edited by Canyonero; 05-31-2008, 07:14 PM.'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
'96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
'92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
'71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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Crank but no start, is where I am now. I could use some help. I am getting fuel and spark, but its not even trying to start. I think the answer is in these wires. What needs to be hooked up out of this stuff? I have only hooked up the Ignition wire...that's it. I have four wires that are grounded by the water inlet neck...do I need to have more ground than that? What else needs to be grounded or hooked up? What about the injector drivers? Are those important...I don't know what that is. Any help is appreciated.
Originally posted by cardana24 View PostI spent several hours on the jeep last night with the multi meter. I did not connect any more wires but rather tried to figure out what the wires are that I had left. I put all of my information in a spread sheet if any one would like it emailed to them. I have listed all of the wire in each harness and they are in the order you would see them on the harness.
10 pin white harness
Tan- B19 Serial Data
Green/White- B28 Buffered Speed Output
Dk Blue- B18 2nd gear start mode indicator lamp control
Green/White- nothing on ecm
Green- about 10 different pins
Red- lots of pins
Tan- lots of pins
Brown- lots of pins
4 pin Black harness
Grey- Nothing (Caynonaro said it was 5V ref)
Orange- B14,B15 Battery (keep alive memory)
Black/White- PCM ground
Purple- Ring terminal in harness
10 Pin Blue Harness
Lt Blue- C10 2nd start mode switch signal
Brown/White- B7 SES indicator control
White- Nothing (Caynonaro said its for the tachometer)
Dk Blue- Nothing
Green/White- A2 A/C request
Pink- C3 Ignition Feed
Lt Blue/Black- A18 Brake signal
10 Pin Grey/Black
Pink- C12,C14,C16 Injector Drivers Cyl's 3,1,5
Green/White- B6 A/C compressor clutch Relay control
Green- C2 A/C Clutch status
Brown- B3 Secondary air injection system air bypass solenoid
Brown/tape-B11,B12,B13 EGR# 1,2,3 control
Pink/tape- B20,B32,A6,C17,C20,C21,C25,C31,C1
Green- Same as Pink/tape
Pink- C32, C15,C13 Injector driver Cyl's 4,6,2
3 Pin Black
Grey- A31,A30,A17,A1 Various sensor grounds
Dk Blue- A3 A/C evaporator temp signal
Black- A1,A17,A31 Various sensor grounds
Sooooooooo....what do I need to hook up out of all of this stuff. Do I need to hook all of those grounds to something? What about the Injector Driver Cylinder stuff...what's that? Anyone what to help?
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I'm downloading my scanner drivers now...
*edit*
I emailed the papers I got with my harness, some troubleshooting info, etc. The full scans are 3MB if someone else wants them. I could compress them, but I'm lazy.Last edited by Canyonero; 06-02-2008, 12:51 AM.'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
'96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
'92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
'71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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Originally posted by Canyonero View PostI'm downloading my scanner drivers now...
*edit*
I emailed the papers I got with my harness, some troubleshooting info, etc. The full scans are 3MB if someone else wants them. I could compress them, but I'm lazy.
Thanks for that info.
Does anyone have any suggestions on my problem?
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Air, fuel, and spark is all an engine needs to run. Sort of (compression, timing, etc...).
How did you verify fuel and spark? I bought a set of $8 noid lights to test for injector pulse. One set of my injectors were clogged. ALL SIX of them. The engine ran with the first set, but one injector was stuck wide open. I bought a new set of Accel injectors. Do you have fuel pressure on the test port? Are the plugs wet?'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
'96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
'92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
'71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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Originally posted by Canyonero View PostAir, fuel, and spark is all an engine needs to run. Sort of (compression, timing, etc...).
How did you verify fuel and spark? I bought a set of $8 noid lights to test for injector pulse. One set of my injectors were clogged. ALL SIX of them. The engine ran with the first set, but one injector was stuck wide open. I bought a new set of Accel injectors. Do you have fuel pressure on the test port? Are the plugs wet?
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10 Pin Grey/Black
Pink- C12,C14,C16 Injector Drivers Cyl's 3,1,5
Green/White- B6 A/C compressor clutch Relay control
Green- C2 A/C Clutch status
Brown- B3 Secondary air injection system air bypass solenoid
Brown/tape-B11,B12,B13 EGR# 1,2,3 control
Pink/tape- B20,B32,A6,C17,C20,C21,C25,C31,C1
Green- Same as Pink/tape
Pink- C32, C15,C13 Injector driver Cyl's 4,6,2
Maybe the problem is I do not have ^^^ these pink wires hooked up? IDK, my harness is plugged in at the injectors at the fuel rail?
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'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
'96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
'92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
'71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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Originally posted by Canyonero View PostDo you have 12v on the injector plugs with ign on?
So are you saying the Injector Drivers aren't connected to anything?
What does the loose connector look like?
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So this is the one you don't have hooked up?
It looks like the one that connects to the injector sub-harness, but I see it isn't.
OH! You know what I bet that is? Power for injector bank #1 and #2. That connector probably would have gone to the fuse box. That's why I don't have it, I had a fuse block on my harness already.
Unplug your injector sub-harness and see if you still have continuity to C12-16,32. I bet you won't because you're getting the continuity through the injectors.
Throw a 10-amp fuse on each of those pink wires connected to an ignition switched source (make sure it's still hot when cranking, some aren't). I bet it'll start!'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
'96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
'92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
'71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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Originally posted by Canyonero View PostSo this is the one you don't have hooked up?
It looks like the one that connects to the injector sub-harness, but I see it isn't.
OH! You know what I bet that is? Power for injector bank #1 and #2. That connector probably would have gone to the fuse box. That's why I don't have it, I had a fuse block on my harness already.
Unplug your injector sub-harness and see if you still have continuity to C12-16,32. I bet you won't because you're getting the continuity through the injectors.
Throw a 10-amp fuse on each of those pink wires connected to an ignition switched source (make sure it's still hot when cranking, some aren't). I bet it'll start!
Alright. I will try that tonight. I'll post back once I check that. Feel free to post any more ideas until I try that out. Thanks for the suggestions.
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My gut tells me that's right. But sometimes my gut doesn't know what the hell it's talking about. But I do know that the two injector banks are fused independently from each other and the ECU.
If you do the tests I described, that should verify it:
If you don't have the sub-harness connected, you won't have continuity between those two pink wires and C12-16,32. If it's hooked up right, you will have 12v at the individual injector connectors. Make sense? I don't always make sense. Hope someone chimes in if I'm way off...
You need a noid light to test for the trigger pulse, but I think you'll be fine.'98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
'96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
'92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
'71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits
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