3.4 swap into 1985 Jeep Cherokee questions?

[cardana24]

Will these valve springs work with what I am doing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-2-8-3-1-Camaro-Firebird-Valve-Springs-12-212-1327_W0QQitemZ230225596637QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230225596637

[geoffinbc]

Yea grab that regulator. Looks good.

The springs look like they should work but see if you can dig up specs.

[cardana24]

Yea grab that regulator. Looks good.

The springs look like they should work but see if you can dig up specs.

I already ordered the regulator and the pump so i should be good on the fuel side. I still need to pick up the enternal stuff to go with my cam. I will probably go ahead and get the edelbrock lifters that I have posted. What specs do I need to look for in valve springs? Like I said I have never changed internals in an engine. Also am I am going to need special tools to install the cam/lifters/valve springs? I am going to read my manual a little bit today to see what I can gather, but it looks like you need a special tool to do the valve springs. Can I reuse my stock valve spring retainers?

On a side note I just got back from picking my 3.4 engine up today. I'll post a pic of what I have in the next few days. I got an entire 3.4 from a 94 camaro. It came with all of the acessories, all of the sensors, a ECU and an engine wiring harness. How much trouble would it be to get this thing running fuel injected with having the wiring harness and all of the other stuff?

[geoffinbc]

Yes you need a valve spring compressor. If the work is done out of the truck then a lever type spring compressor works the best. You will also need a compression tool in order to pressurize the cylinders so the valve stems stay up when the spring is off. You need springs with about 100lbs seat and 340lbs open. You may or may not be able to use the stock retainer depending on the required install height.

You can run the EFI fairly easily but then your pump requirements and regulator requirements have now changed, you need to bypass the VATS system in the Camaro ECM and then do a whack of wiring.

[cardana24]

Yes you need a valve spring compressor. If the work is done out of the truck then a lever type spring compressor works the best. You will also need a compression tool in order to pressurize the cylinders so the valve stems stay up when the spring is off. You need springs with about 100lbs seat and 340lbs open. You may or may not be able to use the stock retainer depending on the required install height.

You can run the EFI fairly easily but then your pump requirements and regulator requirements have now changed, you need to bypass the VATS system in the Camaro ECM and then do a whack of wiring.

I will just stick with the carbed set up for the time being, and I will possibly switch over to EFI in the near future.

Do you have a link to the style of valve spring compressor that would work best? I will be doing the work on an engine stand. Also what type of compression tool are you talking about to keep the valve stems up? I have a compression tool to check compression on the cylinders but I doubt that is what you are talking about. If I find out the spec on the valve springs could you tell me if I can use stock retainers? Or could you tell me the acceptable height that I can still use the stock retainers?

[Ed_Mc.]

Here's some examples of valve spring compressors:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html

If done with the heads still installed, you need an Air Hold Fitting to pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves in place.

Air Hold Fitting: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi14.html

As an alternative you can feed a length of flexible rope or twine into the spark plug hole then bring the piston up to TDC (or as close to TDC as the rope will allow, before stopping the piston), and the rope will prevent the valves from falling in the cyl when you remove the valve springs.

HTH.........ed

[cardana24]

Here's some examples of valve spring compressors:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html

If done with the heads still installed, you need an Air Hold Fitting to pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves in place.

Air Hold Fitting: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi14.html

As an alternative you can feed a length of flexible rope or twine into the spark plug hole then bring the piston up to TDC (or as close to TDC as the rope will allow, before stopping the piston), and the rope will prevent the valves from falling in the cyl when you remove the valve springs.

HTH.........ed

Do I just need that air hold fitting that is just a couple dollars? I assume I will hook that up to my compressor?

[cardana24]

what about these lifters? Will they work with the cam?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-8-2835cc-3-1-3-4-Chevy-Olds-Cutlass-Lifters-HT2095_W0QQitemZ230224944666QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230224944666&_trksid=p3756.m20.l1116

Or would the edelbrock ones be a better choice?

what about these valve springs? I am guessing they will not work since they are not the specs that were suggested.

http://info.rockauto.com/SealedPower/VS798.html

How about these? It looks like they are the part that is used on the GM Crate 3.4. They are rated at 105 pressure at installed height of 1.7 and 296 pounds at 1.2 open. http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/gm-pa...-fullsize.html

but it looks like a different retainer is suggested for these.

[geoffinbc]

Na stay away from cheep lifters man. Nothing will wipe out a cam faster. Its not worth the possible headaches.

yes you can use the spring found on the crate motor. You also need the retainers to match. But they are a great combo and work well.

[cardana24]

Na stay away from cheep lifters man. Nothing will wipe out a cam faster. Its not worth the possible headaches.

yes you can use the spring found on the crate motor. You also need the retainers to match. But they are a great combo and work well.

I went ahead and ordered the valve springs and retainters from the crate motor. As for lifters I am a little confused right now. I was on summit's site looking at the ones that I posted earlier and now I am not positive they will work. When you go into the application that tells you what vehicles they will fit the 3.4 V6 is not listed. But when looking at the lifters that will fit the 3.4 the all of the ones that fit that are listed as fitting the 2.8 as well. Can you guys varify if the edelbrock ones will work or should I go with some others? I know crane has a set of non pump hydo lifters listed to fit both engines but they are about 30 more dollars expensive for all 12. Anyway I would like to order my lifters tomorrow so any advice would be helpful. Thanks.

Another question I had does not have to do with buying parts. While doing this swap I was thinking about doing away with my air pump and all of the lines that run around the engine bay. I was also thinking I would like to use the 3.4 exhaust manifolds and plug the holes for the O2 sensors and just let the EGR valve hang out. What problems would I run into doing this? Also the 3.4 Y pipe is cut off just past where the two sides of the pipe join does anyone know if this is going to fit? My 2.8 manifolds and Y pipe are not in very good shape so i would like to avoid using them and I don't want to buy new ones either.

[cardana24]

I went ahead and ordered the Crane lifters. Here is a link to what I ordered http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

Now I am waiting for parts to show up. I am going to go pull the injection stuff and intake manifold off now and start cleaning things.

[cardana24]

If anyone is wondering here is the engine I am starting with.

[cardana24]

Here is what I got done after a few hours of work. I need to get a puller for the engine dampner. Does everything look fine? Any comments?

[geoffinbc]

Looks normal. A little more rust than I like to see in the water passages. But some heavy coolant flushes over the first few month should take care of it. No need for harsh cleaners or anything.

[cardana24]

Looks normal. A little more rust than I like to see in the water passages. But some heavy coolant flushes over the first few month should take care of it. No need for harsh cleaners or anything.

yeah that's what I was thinking, there is a lot of rust in the coolant passages.

Would my cam/lifter/valve spring replacement be easier with the heads off? Would I still have to worry about droping valves? I am thinking if I can get the exhaust manifolds off it really is not much more work to change the head gaskets. Any thoughts on this?