3.4 swap into 1985 Jeep Cherokee questions?

[Canyonero]

I don't think it's on the flywheel, I believe it's internal.

[cardana24]

I don't think it's on the flywheel, I believe it's internal.

I have my old flex plate at home and I am going to look at that to make sure. It's just a thought I had and thought I would throw it out there since I am pulling my tranny down...just want to make sure I am only doing this once.

[geoffinbc]

The cranks sensor is installed into the side of the block. There is a timing ring in the middle of the crank that it reads. There is nothing on the flywheel.

[cardana24]

The cranks sensor is installed into the side of the block. There is a timing ring in the middle of the crank that it reads. There is nothing on the flywheel.

Thanks for varifying that. I am used to working on my maximas and they have the timing ring on the flywheel, that's why I am asking the question.

[cardana24]

I don't have much of an update but the transmission is currently out, and I am supposed to pick up my 3rd clutch for it this afternoon. The perfection clutch that I took out of the jeep had the hub pressed in backwards, so I exchanged that one. Well the new one also had the hub pressed in the same way as the last....so I would not recomend perfections clutches. They are made by the company Zoom and are produced in china. I am supposed to be picking up another clutch at Auto Zone today, so hopefully this one will work out and I can move forward with this project again.

[cardana24]

Transmission is back in and the freakin thing still will not shift. Someone please give me some advice. I am supposed to be taking this thing to the beach next week and its not even driveable.

Okay so I put another clutch in, made by dyna pack, it looked to be made correctly. I have hydaulic pressure and the slave cylinder is working as it should, yet I can not select a gear with the engine running. When the engine is not not running I can shift all day (not that, that matters) but as soon as I start the engine and try to shift it will not even grind in the forward gears, it will grind if I try to put it in reverse. So what would cause this? Assuming my slave cylinder is working fine?

can I try getting a longer rod for the slave cylinder to push into the shift fork? Maybe its not being pushed in far enough?

[geoffinbc]

People often put in the throwout bearing wrong. Also if you disconnected any of the hydraulic system for the clutch you need to bleed it. Oh any you do have a pilot bearing in the crankshaft correct?

[cardana24]

People often put in the throwout bearing wrong. Also if you disconnected any of the hydraulic system for the clutch you need to bleed it. Oh any you do have a pilot bearing in the crankshaft correct?

I have blead the clutch a lot. I have check it for operation while it was not installed in the bell housing, it looks to be working fine.

I assume I put the pilot bearing in the crankshaft correct. It's flush.

As for the throw out bearing how do you put that in wrong? It clips on to the shift fork, it has holes that it clips into. I have the larger end with the smooth spinning surface facing the pressure plate.

What have I done wrong?

[geoffinbc]

Was the new clutch the same as the old clutch? Did it look to be the same thickness and all? I wonder if the pressure plate could be wrong. Oh and the other thing did you inspect the throw out fork at the pivot point? I have seen them wear out so bad that they wont work anymore. On the Getrag 282's they actually wear right through the metal.

[cardana24]

Was the new clutch the same as the old clutch? Did it look to be the same thickness and all? I wonder if the pressure plate could be wrong. Oh and the other thing did you inspect the throw out fork at the pivot point? I have seen them wear out so bad that they wont work anymore. On the Getrag 282's they actually wear right through the metal.

The clutch discs were the same thickness. The shift fork looked fine at the pivot point, I re-greased the ball bearing and put it back in it's place. I can take the inspection cover off tonight and see what I can see but I am not sure if I will be able to see everything I need to look at. What are some tests I can run or things I can check this evening?

[1986cherokee]

I am going to do this swap into my 86 cherokee this next week with possibly fuel injection. good job on your swap without the wireing harness. will the hood need to be cowl induction for the fuel injection to fit? do you know how much the wireng harness might cost and where i should look for it? also do you need to use the 3.4 accesories if you go with the fuel injection. thanks

[geoffinbc]

I believe you need to use the 3.4L bracketry so the belt clears the intake and upper heater hose. It may not be the case for an 86 motor that uses V belts.

[1986cherokee]

ya my motor comes with i think two v belts. is the 3.4 originally sepentine ran? if clearance is not an issue there wont be any other problems i think right?, thanks a ton!!!

[geoffinbc]

Yea the RWD engines started using Serp belts in 86 on the Camaro and 87 On the S-10. Since then they have not used a V belt. If your setup works there is no reason you cannot run it. Remember you need to use your oil pan, front cover and water pump in order to run V belts. You cannot run V belts on the new cover or water pump because you will spin it the wrong way.

[cardana24]

I am going to do this swap into my 86 cherokee this next week with possibly fuel injection. good job on your swap without the wireing harness. will the hood need to be cowl induction for the fuel injection to fit? do you know how much the wireng harness might cost and where i should look for it? also do you need to use the 3.4 accesories if you go with the fuel injection. thanks

You do not need the cowl hood. I thought that I was going to but it turns out that I don't, but I still have a cowl insert that I may still use in order to suck out some of that hot air under the hood. As for cost for the harness you may want to check on canyonaro's thread about swaping a 3.4 into his trooper. I am pretty sure he told me he ended up paying around $700 for the harness.


As for an update on my situation I pulled the inspection cover off of the bell housing and watched the slave cylinder push the shift fork in so that is working...it's something past that and I cannot see anything else so the tranny is coming down again. Currently I have the stock flywheel from my 2.8 at the machine shop to be neutrally balanced and re surfaced...I don't think my current flywheel is causing a problem but I want to rule everything out. Also if I cannot find a stock clutch parts in the next few days (before I get my flywheel back) then I am going to put the old clutch back in since I know that that worked before I started the swap. This time I will try to take some pics while I am in there so everyone can confirm I am putting it back together properly.