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3.4 swap into 1985 Jeep Cherokee questions?

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  • Has anyone had a chance to look over the wiring? What do I still need to hook up for a manual tranny with no A/C. I am going to go hook up the ignition wire now and some of the grounds...past that i am really not sure what else I need to hook up. Thanks for any help.

    Comment


    • I didn't need to hook anything from my tranny into the ECU. I think I could have done the VSS, but didn't. You probably don't have a VSS anyway. If you have all the sensors, etc hooked up, and you have power... try to start it.

      As for the Vac stuff, what is the question? There is a small vac line for the MAP and FPR. And a large vac line to the brakes. I have a vac line that goes into the cab for who-knows-what and the cruise control.

      I was going to take a picture, but my camera battery went dead.
      Last edited by Canyonero; 05-31-2008, 11:46 AM.
      '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
      '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
      '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
      '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
        I didn't need to hook anything from my tranny into the ECU. I think I could have done the VSS, but didn't. You probably don't have a VSS anyway. If you have all the sensors, etc hooked up, and you have power... try to start it.

        As for the Vac stuff, what is the question? There is a small vac line for the MAP and FPR. And a large vac line to the brakes. I have a vac line that goes into the cab for who-knows-what and the cruise control.

        I was going to take a picture, but my camera battery went dead.
        If you look at the fittings on the intake manifold there is a spot for the PCV hose to plug in and a spot for the brake booster to plug in. On each of these fittings it looks like there is a smaller vac line that hooks to either side. I need to know where those vac lines are supposed to go. For example...in this picture you can see where the brake booster line comes into the rear of the manifold. Do you see the nipple on the other side with no vac hose? I need to know where the hose goes that plugs in to that.


        It looks like from the pcv valve open nipple i possibly nee to plug in the Evap Solenoid into that possibly.

        Comment


        • There should have been an image attached to this. But it's not working, and picasa is also sucking. I'll email it...
          Last edited by Canyonero; 05-31-2008, 07:14 PM.
          '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
          '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
          '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
          '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

          Comment


          • Crank but no start, is where I am now. I could use some help. I am getting fuel and spark, but its not even trying to start. I think the answer is in these wires. What needs to be hooked up out of this stuff? I have only hooked up the Ignition wire...that's it. I have four wires that are grounded by the water inlet neck...do I need to have more ground than that? What else needs to be grounded or hooked up? What about the injector drivers? Are those important...I don't know what that is. Any help is appreciated.

            Originally posted by cardana24 View Post
            I spent several hours on the jeep last night with the multi meter. I did not connect any more wires but rather tried to figure out what the wires are that I had left. I put all of my information in a spread sheet if any one would like it emailed to them. I have listed all of the wire in each harness and they are in the order you would see them on the harness.
            10 pin white harness
            Tan- B19 Serial Data
            Green/White- B28 Buffered Speed Output
            Dk Blue- B18 2nd gear start mode indicator lamp control
            Green/White- nothing on ecm
            Green- about 10 different pins
            Red- lots of pins
            Tan- lots of pins
            Brown- lots of pins

            4 pin Black harness
            Grey- Nothing (Caynonaro said it was 5V ref)
            Orange- B14,B15 Battery (keep alive memory)
            Black/White- PCM ground
            Purple- Ring terminal in harness

            10 Pin Blue Harness
            Lt Blue- C10 2nd start mode switch signal
            Brown/White- B7 SES indicator control
            White- Nothing (Caynonaro said its for the tachometer)
            Dk Blue- Nothing
            Green/White- A2 A/C request
            Pink- C3 Ignition Feed
            Lt Blue/Black- A18 Brake signal

            10 Pin Grey/Black
            Pink- C12,C14,C16 Injector Drivers Cyl's 3,1,5
            Green/White- B6 A/C compressor clutch Relay control
            Green- C2 A/C Clutch status
            Brown- B3 Secondary air injection system air bypass solenoid
            Brown/tape-B11,B12,B13 EGR# 1,2,3 control
            Pink/tape- B20,B32,A6,C17,C20,C21,C25,C31,C1
            Green- Same as Pink/tape
            Pink- C32, C15,C13 Injector driver Cyl's 4,6,2

            3 Pin Black
            Grey- A31,A30,A17,A1 Various sensor grounds
            Dk Blue- A3 A/C evaporator temp signal
            Black- A1,A17,A31 Various sensor grounds


            Sooooooooo....what do I need to hook up out of all of this stuff. Do I need to hook all of those grounds to something? What about the Injector Driver Cylinder stuff...what's that? Anyone what to help?

            Comment


            • I'm downloading my scanner drivers now...

              *edit*
              I emailed the papers I got with my harness, some troubleshooting info, etc. The full scans are 3MB if someone else wants them. I could compress them, but I'm lazy.
              Last edited by Canyonero; 06-02-2008, 12:51 AM.
              '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
              '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
              '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
              '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
                I'm downloading my scanner drivers now...

                *edit*
                I emailed the papers I got with my harness, some troubleshooting info, etc. The full scans are 3MB if someone else wants them. I could compress them, but I'm lazy.

                Thanks for that info.

                Does anyone have any suggestions on my problem?

                Comment


                • Air, fuel, and spark is all an engine needs to run. Sort of (compression, timing, etc...).

                  How did you verify fuel and spark? I bought a set of $8 noid lights to test for injector pulse. One set of my injectors were clogged. ALL SIX of them. The engine ran with the first set, but one injector was stuck wide open. I bought a new set of Accel injectors. Do you have fuel pressure on the test port? Are the plugs wet?
                  '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                  '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                  '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                  '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
                    Air, fuel, and spark is all an engine needs to run. Sort of (compression, timing, etc...).

                    How did you verify fuel and spark? I bought a set of $8 noid lights to test for injector pulse. One set of my injectors were clogged. ALL SIX of them. The engine ran with the first set, but one injector was stuck wide open. I bought a new set of Accel injectors. Do you have fuel pressure on the test port? Are the plugs wet?
                    I have fuel pressure, because I vented it at the test port last night, I have spark because I had some of the wires off when I was first trying to start the engine so I could try to build up some oil pressure by the engine turning over and not catching. When the jeep cranks it turns over fine but it seems as if it is not even close to catching. I am not getting any combustion/exhaust. I am not sure where to get noid lights...can I get those at advanced auto...how do they work?

                    Comment


                    • 10 Pin Grey/Black
                      Pink- C12,C14,C16 Injector Drivers Cyl's 3,1,5
                      Green/White- B6 A/C compressor clutch Relay control
                      Green- C2 A/C Clutch status
                      Brown- B3 Secondary air injection system air bypass solenoid
                      Brown/tape-B11,B12,B13 EGR# 1,2,3 control
                      Pink/tape- B20,B32,A6,C17,C20,C21,C25,C31,C1
                      Green- Same as Pink/tape
                      Pink- C32, C15,C13 Injector driver Cyl's 4,6,2


                      Maybe the problem is I do not have ^^^ these pink wires hooked up? IDK, my harness is plugged in at the injectors at the fuel rail?

                      Comment


                      • Do you have 12v on the injector plugs with ign on?

                        So are you saying the Injector Drivers aren't connected to anything?

                        What does the loose connector look like?
                        Attached Files
                        '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                        '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                        '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                        '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
                          Do you have 12v on the injector plugs with ign on?

                          So are you saying the Injector Drivers aren't connected to anything?

                          What does the loose connector look like?
                          I have several loose connectors. The one that has the two pink wires I am talking about is black/grey. I have the harness by the injectors plugged in. I am wondering about the two pink wires in the connector that I listed.

                          Comment


                          • So this is the one you don't have hooked up?



                            It looks like the one that connects to the injector sub-harness, but I see it isn't.

                            OH! You know what I bet that is? Power for injector bank #1 and #2. That connector probably would have gone to the fuse box. That's why I don't have it, I had a fuse block on my harness already.

                            Unplug your injector sub-harness and see if you still have continuity to C12-16,32. I bet you won't because you're getting the continuity through the injectors.

                            Throw a 10-amp fuse on each of those pink wires connected to an ignition switched source (make sure it's still hot when cranking, some aren't). I bet it'll start!
                            '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                            '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                            '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                            '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
                              So this is the one you don't have hooked up?



                              It looks like the one that connects to the injector sub-harness, but I see it isn't.

                              OH! You know what I bet that is? Power for injector bank #1 and #2. That connector probably would have gone to the fuse box. That's why I don't have it, I had a fuse block on my harness already.

                              Unplug your injector sub-harness and see if you still have continuity to C12-16,32. I bet you won't because you're getting the continuity through the injectors.

                              Throw a 10-amp fuse on each of those pink wires connected to an ignition switched source (make sure it's still hot when cranking, some aren't). I bet it'll start!

                              Alright. I will try that tonight. I'll post back once I check that. Feel free to post any more ideas until I try that out. Thanks for the suggestions.

                              Comment


                              • My gut tells me that's right. But sometimes my gut doesn't know what the hell it's talking about. But I do know that the two injector banks are fused independently from each other and the ECU.

                                If you do the tests I described, that should verify it:
                                If you don't have the sub-harness connected, you won't have continuity between those two pink wires and C12-16,32. If it's hooked up right, you will have 12v at the individual injector connectors. Make sense? I don't always make sense. Hope someone chimes in if I'm way off...

                                You need a noid light to test for the trigger pulse, but I think you'll be fine.
                                '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                                '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                                '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                                '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                                Comment

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