Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1997 Malibu 3.1 Upgrade options...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1997 Malibu 3.1 Upgrade options...

    I have a 1997 Malibu that I bought dirt cheap with a toasted 3.1 . I am about 3 bolts away from pulling this motor out and wanted to see what my options were for a replacement engine. Since I have to buy an engine anyways I want to make sure I get the most bang for my buck. Any comments and/or sugestions are welcome. I will take some pics and post later.

    Thanks,
    Steve (Mason, Ohio)

  • #2
    I guess I should add... I am more of an old school (Pre-computer) 8V RWD guy. My goal for this project is to be more of a "sleeper" or stock looking family car with a modest above average power plant. I have plenty of experence swaping engines but not much in a FWD car.
    With that in mind what are my options? Something tells me a big block 454 is out of the question...

    Steve

    Comment


    • #3
      Engine is now OUT! Now the fun begins










      Few notes for anyone unfamiliar with this motor who plans to pull theirs out the top.

      Nothing real tricky but a few things that may help you out and save a little time.

      1. Take the upper intake off before you pull the motor. This makes it easier to get the fuel lines disconnected. -and- You may want to have this off when you put the new motor back in for the same reason.
      2. There is a motor to transmission mount on the back side of the motor on the passenger side that is tough to see if you do not know it is there. You can get to it from the top and there are 2 bolts(13mm IIRC) that you need to take out of the block. There is also 1 bolt in this mount on the bottom of the oil pan. It helps to loosen the bolts in this brace from the Transmission also. This way when you drop the motor back in you can line up the bolt holes easier.
      3. You do not need to pull both fans off of the radiator. Just pull the drivers side off and you can get to everything you need.
      4. The rear bell housing bolt is a little tough but you can get to it from the top with a long extension. Take your exhaust pipe off the manifold first and go in from there with a 18mm socket. If you can take the studs out of the exhaust manifold.
      5. There are 3 bolts in the fly wheel(flex plate) don't forget these.
      6. Do not take the lines loose from the AC compressor. Instead take the bolts out of the compressor and tie the compressor to the subframe. This way you will not have to recharge your AC when you are done. FYI... There is a spacer on the top of the compressor. Don't forget this when you put the compressor back on.(Looks like a dog bone)
      7. You can also do the same with the starter. Just take the bolts out tie it to the subframe and leave the wires connected.
      8. PS pump can also be taken out and tied out of the way so you don't need to break the lines open.
      9. Take the master cylinder off just to be safe. It would be realy tight to get the motor out with it still attached to the brake booster. You do not have to take the brake lines loose, just the two bolts that hold it to the booster and tie it out of the way.
      10. Zip lock bags and a sharpie are great to keep bolts/nuts and parts seperated and marked.
      Last edited by Baldeagle242; 08-30-2007, 03:48 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Probably the easiest swap I would think would be a 2000+ 3400 (2000+ for the large port runners). If you're looking for more power than that, you could put on 3500 heads and intakes but you'd have to ask a few questions about it here and do a little searching to find out what issues, if any, would be involved with that kind of swap.

        If your interested in upgrades, Ben sells cams, throttle bodies, and a whole lot of other great stuff from the 60 DegreeV6 Store at the top of the page. I understand he also does excellent port work. Good luck and keep us posted.
        Last edited by TazMan; 07-31-2007, 01:10 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Any 3400 has large port runners. But a newer 2000+ has a bit better flowing neck on the upper intake. A 99 and under 3400 however will have the same style EGR mount on the upper intake manifold. Or swap out the EGR tube and EGR for a 2000+ style it works with the wiring harness.

          I believe S&S headers fit the malibu too, but not 100% sure on that.
          To get the most out of your swap you will want to tune the computer, which can be done by getting a DHP tuner and learning how the computer and all that works.

          You can add power adders like turbo or nitrous, but the transmission probably won't like that for long. People that go that route swap to a getrag 282 manual as they can take a lot of power.
          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
          Original L82 Longblock
          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

          Comment


          • #6
            The motor I am getting is a 98 3100 out of another Malibu from 1998 Chevrolet : Malibu LS off eBay.


            Edit>This deal fell through...Probably a good thing anyways...<Edit
            Last edited by Baldeagle242; 08-30-2007, 05:10 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the stroker crank is to make a 2.8L into a 3.1L. Alot of the stuff on that web site is for older car or rear wheel drive cars. Becarefull with those cams, they are most likely not going to work in your 3100 most dont have the tooth for the cam sensor. If you want more low end, the 3400 engine would be your best bet or change the fial drive ratio in the transmission. I honestly don't think you can get much more low end torque out a 3100.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the info.
                Last edited by Baldeagle242; 08-29-2007, 03:23 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Go to the 60degreev6 store, Ben has ALL sorts of cam shafts for stock 3100's and 3400's... any one of those "ROLLER PROFILE" cams will work... the sensor architecture is irrelevant, to prove that I’m running a Milzy Motorsports camshaft, (05 cam sensor style) on a 97 ECM and I’m using a 05 sensor, but my old motor was a 01 cam with a 94 sensor on a 95 ECM… Its leading edge technology, the edge is always in the same place and that’s all it needs to see.

                  If you do get a cam though, don’t forget to get springs to support it. Stock 3100 springs are the suck!

                  Also a 3400 swap is a direct replacement, just use all of your old sensors (location specific) and vac tubes and what not... Hell, I'm running a 05 3400 lower end with a 04 3500 top end with a 2000 3100 upper plenum, and that looks 100% stock and is still all connected 100% stock to my car/harness and electrical system.

                  Got Lope?
                  3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                  Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                  Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                  12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    plain and simple, don't waste time on a small port 3100 if you want power.

                    i'd find a 2000+ 3400 and start with that, it will bolt in with the stock mounts, everything but the EGR will bolt on perfect. With the better 3400 block and heads a good cam will work MUCH better.


                    bigger cam comes better springs.. alot of people use the LS6 Yellows, they've been proven to support .559 lift and 6000+ RPM useage.


                    I'm an old V8 guy myself, i find these engines are MUCH more fun to build.
                    Past Builds;
                    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                    Current Project;
                    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Okay guys...My eBay motor deal is not going to happen. Car was listed in the cars for sale section(Not parts section) so I assumed I would be getting the whole wrecked car, motor trans everything. The auction was not real clear one way or the other.(Kinda my fault for not making sure before I bid) I contact the guy to make arangments to pick it up and he wants payment now but tells me it will take 1-2 weeks before he has the motor out of the car. To make a long story short its just not going to happen. Never deal with someone with zero feedback.

                      May be a good thing anyways...
                      So... I am back in the market for a motor. You guys make this 3100 to 3400 swap sound like a peice of cake.
                      Few questions.
                      1. What is different from the 2000+ 3400 as far has hooking it back up? EGR? sensors? fuel lines? anything?
                      2. What cars make the best donor cars for a 3400? I see S and E engine codes.(maybe others) The 3100 I have is an M code motor.
                      3. What is a decent junk yard ballpark price for a 2000+ 3400?
                      4. Is the 2000+ realy that much better than a 1999 or older 3400?
                      5. Anyone want to buy a 1997 Malibu with no motor real cheap? Just kidding

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Find a 05 impala motor, I got mine dirt cheap. 500 for the 05 3400 and then 400 for a 04 3500, both with 4k miles on them. I put the two together and ended up with what I have now.

                        BUT if you were to buy a 05 3400, all you would have to do to make everything as easy as pie, is just pull off ALL the accessories and brackets, and bolt all of yours on, and do the same with all the sensors that appear to be different, Cam sensor is one, possibly the MAP setup is different. The only sensor you will "lose" is the oil level sensor in the pan, unless you want to swap over oil pans... this may be a good idea since some have been having trouble getting 04 and 05 pans to work on the older a/c compressors.

                        EGR you can use a 96 to 05 egr and it will plug right in(match year egr to motor year), it may mount different and look a little different but its the same plug so it will work fine. You will need to use the new 05 EGR pipe on your existing manifolds. IIRC you can use the 05 Impala manifolds, but dont quote me on that, I know the are larger ports than the older ones, but I cant remember if the Malibu has that header style rear manifold.

                        Hope that helps, feel free to ask any more questions.

                        1. Explained above
                        2. Any large port 3100(2000+) or 3400, 03+ 3400 seem to be a little more powerfull.
                        3. That REALLY depends on where you live, I can get 4k mile motors for $500 others pay 700-800 for 40k mile motors
                        4. A 2000 3400 upper intake has a better flow path, a 99 3400 upper has some indents in the bottom and the neck of the intake is restricted more than the 00+ ones.
                        5. My G/F already has a 2000 with a 3100 and damn air pumps on it... Ones enough.
                        Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 08-02-2007, 08:39 AM.

                        Got Lope?
                        3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                        Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                        Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                        12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I hate to ask so many questions but it is cheaper to ask than to find out the hard way. Here is a few pics of my Manifold (Notice the ainti freeze that ran out of the manifold...Is that bad? ) and the EGR valve. Do these look like they will work with the 2005 Impala motor? Anything else I could sanp a few pics of that someone may be able to tell me if it will work or not?




                          I think reading the 3100 to 3400 swap info that is in the PDF file on left may sound a little more difficult than this will be for my car. The swap file is referencing a 1995 and mine is a 1997.

                          I called Strickers (Local salvage yard here in ohio) and a 2005 Impala 3400 motor from them sells from $1400 with 10 miles(Yes 10) down to $1000 with 64,000 miles. Walt's (Another salvage yard) has one with 12,000 miles for $850. Sounds like I need to find out where you guys get these for $500 and take a raod trip.
                          Just for kicks I also had them quote a 1997 3100 and the best price was $650 for one with 91,000 miles.
                          Last edited by Baldeagle242; 08-02-2007, 09:37 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Wow... I dont know what shipping would be but try Linders Inc. online. Thats where I get mine, they are local to me up in Mass.

                            Exhaust manifolds will work, if you use yours OR the impala ones, they are the same.

                            And the EGR you will be using the one that comes with the motor. Thats a horizontal mounted EGR, the newer 2000+ ones are vertical mounted. BUT have the same electronics on them.

                            See what I mean... This is their online listing for 04 +3400's

                            2004 Engine Buick Rendezvous 3.4L,AT,20K OIL STICKER 0 A 31529 $495 Linder's Inc. USA-MA(Worcester) E-mail 1-800-521-8000

                            2004 Engine Buick Rendezvous 3.4L,AT 44,000 A 32462 $495 Linder's Inc. USA-MA(Worcester) E-mail 1-800-521-8000

                            2005 Engine Chevy Impala 3.4L,AT 38,000 A 29518 $495 Linder's Inc. USA-MA(Worcester) E-mail 1-800-521-8000

                            2005 Engine Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4L,AT 18,000 A 32143 $495 Linder's Inc. USA-MA(Worcester) E-mail 1-800-521-8000

                            2005 Engine Chevy Impala 3.4L,AT 55,000 A 31450 $395 Linder's Inc. USA-MA(Worcester) E-mail 1-800-521-8000


                            Their e-mail addy.
                            Parts@LindersInc.com
                            Might be cheaper to have it shipped than to buy one local
                            Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 08-02-2007, 09:53 AM.

                            Got Lope?
                            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks for the info. Just got off the phone with Linders. 17,000 mile motor $495 plus $200 freight. Motor is out of a 2005 Monte Carlo... I assume this is the same motor as the Impala and should work
                              That's hard to beleive there is that much difference in price from Ohio to Mass. but it sounds like my best option.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X