MS2 Setup Help

[Maverick H1L]

Well, I've finally solved the riddle of the IAC. There are 2 large resistors on the bottom of the MSII daughtercard that need to be bypassed. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. This info was found on the MSefi MSII IAC page:

"For some IAC stepper motors, you might need to make some adjustments because the power resistor values may not be quite low enough for your application. This could cause sporadic problems. To see if this is the problem, cut the leads off a resistor or use a small piece of wire and solder it across the two power resistors on the bottom of the your MegaSquirt-II™ controller board. (That is, jumper each resistor separately, don't jumper one resistor to the other resistor.) These are the two large brown units on the BOTTOM of the board, on the end opposite the side of the board with the 2x3 pin header (typically they are marked 1R0). These have large solder pads on each side - just jumper across each one so you get 0 Ohms across the resistors and see if this improves operation. If it does, leave the resistors and jumpers in place. This is very likely to be the problem for those who see the proper step commands given in software but inconsistent response from the motor, such as requiring a restart to lower the hot rpm after a cold start."

FYI, the power resistors on my daughtercard are BLACK and read "R00".

I have the Innovate kit but haven't installed it yet. The car hasn't even been out of the driveway in at least 2 weeks. And I just ran it yesterday for the first time in a week due to that same ECM connection issue (loose terminals in the connectors) that caused the engine to stall 3 times in a mile on my way to work the last time I took her there.

Still haven't figured out why I keep losing power to the coil side of the MAF relay intermittently. Probably a bad connection in my fuse panel (I need to get some cleaner spray I guess). It's working at the moment, and this wire will probably end up being the one that powers my LC-1 off of a relay.

I turned the fuel pressure back down again. May need to adjust it again, IDK. All I know for sure right now is that the engine doesn't like to rev well with the MAF not working and runs fine when it is, with no changes to the tables. I apparently have to replace a couple o-rings on the FPR fittings (smell and see gas on it with the engine running). Also going to adjust the IAC a little wider on starts because the engine seems to need it, especially when hot (I have the hot crank PW very close to 0 ms right now and it's still flooding).

[robertisaar]

i could be wrong, but R00 should be 0 ohm resistors already.... perhaps take a multimeter to them to verify?

[Maverick H1L]

According to the MSII daughtercard schematics, R5 and R6 (the 2 resistors in question) are 1K, 1W resistors.

[carbon]

According to the MSII daughtercard schematics, R5 and R6 (the 2 resistors in question) are 1K, 1W resistors.

??

1 watt is an odd power rating for a 1k resistor, and the IAC control is not on the MSII daughter board... do you mean on the main board? On the 3.0 board, or 2.1 and 3.57 boards for that matter, R5 and R6 are not 1k/1W resistors... on my 3.0 board, R6 is 10k/0.125W and R5 is 2.2k/0.25W. R39 and R40 are 1 ohm and rated for 0.5W... I believe they're related to the IAC circuit as well, is that what you meant?

1R0 is 1.0 ohm.
R00 is a jumper/short.

[Maverick H1L]

No, I'm talking R5 and R6 on the bottom of the MSII daughtercard, the opposite end of the 6-pin connector. On the underside near the B/LD jumper pins.

That doesn't make sense that the resistors would have 0 resistance. Then they wouldn't be resistors. What also doesn't make sense is that the resistors on every other daughtercard would be 1K ohm resistors and mine would be jumpers, with the card as it came from the assembly line.

I'm attaching page 2 of the MSII daughtercard schematic you you guys can see what I'm talking about. And also the pic from the MSII IAC page that shows where the resistors are. The yellow circles to the right of the resistors in the pic are the terminal blocks that plug into the 40-pin IC socket. In the schematic, R5 and R6 are on the right side of the IAC driver, the UDN chip on the bottom right. They are between SENSE pins and ground.

I'll check the resistance of them the next time I have to drop the ECM out. Right now, it's going to stay where it is due to the connection issues that seem to come and go as they please and they seem to be gone for the moment. I'd rather not disturb the harness right now.

[Guest]

R00 is indeed a "resistor" of zero ohms, used as a jumper in a circuit that could be populated with a variety of different values, where a jumper is needed sometimes.

[Maverick H1L]

Well, whatever the real deal is with the "resistors" on the bottom of the daughtercard... Doesn't matter now.

Now that I have closed up the terminals in the ECM connectors one more time and hung the ECM up under the dash on its bracket, everything seems to be behaving. For the most part.

I reset the tune again using the built-in tool (VE table generator). Not sure what's going on but I seem to have something weird going on, even before I reset the table, where the engine will be running perfectly a-ok one moment and will stall out the next (or just about).

I'm going to have to remove the exhaust headers and have the lower parts of the head ports fixed from where I nicked them with the grinder when I cut the bottoms of the screw holes out to make them slots (PaceSetter 70-1206 headers). I'd just replace them, but I need the EGR tube I have welded to the #2 primary (visual emissions component inspection) and I don't need the EGR tube on the #1, where it is from the factory. Hopefully, that will take care of the exhaust leaks that are throwing off my oxygen sensor so that I can actually read the AFR. Right now, the only time I can read the actual AFR is after I've gotten out of the go pedal, when the O2S volts shoot up to almost 1V. Which means I'm running WAY rich under acceleration.

Acceleration is decent... Until it "hits a wall" at 3000 RPM. Whereupon it will bog down and refuse to go any faster. I said "decent" because it's not quite what I was expecting for 200+ foot pounds of torque (seems like my stock 3.1 would accelerate faster). It seems like it would accelerate better with a tune several months ago with a vacuum leak. I could actually burn rubber then. Now? Forget it.

Also have a small fuel leak at the FPR. I think I need to replace the o-rings on the fittings coming from the hoses and on the plug on the side with no hose, but I'll see if one of the fittings is loose first.

And no, I haven't yet had a chance to install the wideband O2S. I would like to get a relay to power it before I install it. And I haven't had much of a chance to get under the car lately. I still need to swap out my front tires and rotate them, and replace my starter bolts.

[Maverick H1L]

Well, I was wrong. The IAC is still bugging me.

Few other issues have finally been fixed. Turns out my wiring issue wasn't at the ECM itself but in my C207 dash connector. I took out each terminal and tightened them up. Now I can move the harness any way I want to down there with no ill effects. And my fuel pump is no longer going berzerk.

Reset the MSII squirts per cycle back to 6 from 2. Engine seems to be happier and I am actually able to keep an eye on the pulse width now and not wonder WTF it's so high. I seem to be running a little lean, however, so I will go back and reset the VE table to where it was last week. Also backed off my fuel pressure from 60 PSI to 45.

As for the fuel leak, I got rid of the one by the FPR. Also got rid of the one at the fuel tank line on the same side of the system. Now I'm having an issue with the 90* 6AN elbow coming out of my fuel pump outlet... I'm seriously beginning to wonder why I chose AN fittings. A lot of them are supposedly good to 300 PSI but I'm having issues with the things at 45.

[caffeine]

You have to really tighten down those AN fittings to get a leak free seal

[Maverick H1L]

I think I may have actually overtightened it on the fuel pump side and damaged it. Not sure. I'm going to play it safe and get a replacement since it's a cheapo I got in my fuel pump/FPR kit (of which I have already replaced both the fuel pump AND FPR).

[Maverick H1L]

Oh, yay... New issues.

Replaced the fuel pump AGAIN, this time with a real Bosch 044. Ended up putting in a new ground wire straight to the battery's body ground (yes, that's like a 12-foot ground wire but it's working). Also replaced the 90* fitting coming out of the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago. Going to remove and replace the 6AN hose I have joining the body return line to the tank return line with a plain piece of rubber fuel injection hose. Tired of the leak.

Put on a new muffler the other day. Need a different tail pipe for it, but I think it sounds a little better right now. Removed headers and permanently fixed the port leaks.

FINALLY installed the Innovate LC-2 (I thought it was an LC-1 but it's not). It's not working. The output is firmly fixed on 5V, the output wire disconnected from the MSII or not, and I can't use the serial cable to connect to it to see what kind of data it's seeing. And my laptop's serial port is the same port I connect to the MSII through, so I know there isn't an issue there. I just finished shooting off an email to Innovate. Hopefully something can be done since this thing was only installed today and has literally been sitting in the box for 3 months. And no, I'm not running lean. I can smell it running rich, and my narrowband read as such.

[Maverick H1L]

Well, I sort of got the LC-2 figured out. I recalibrated the sensor and now at least it's telling me the AFR. Haven't tried the serial port again yet.

I've noticed a couple of things:
1. This engine absolutely WILL NOT idle with an AFR leaner than about 12-12.5:1. It's missing all over the place.
2. I can't seem to set the idle speed, STILL. It's still one thing when cold and about 300 RPM lower with a hot restart.

I've reset all of the input smoothing factors to 100. Might end up going higher if possible. The TPS signal seems to be uneven. Actually, pretty much all of the sensor signals seem to bounce all over creation, but especially the MAP and TPS. Before I reset the smoothing, I was having issues with the engine stalling with an idle AFR about 13.5-14:1. Now the engine speed is bouncing, along with the AFR, but it's staying alive. While missing pretty heavily.

This makes me wonder how the newer 3X00 series can have such a clean idle if I can't get my engine to idle properly any where near 14.5:1.

I'm going to check the compression again soon. I'd be willing to bet I have rocker nuts that have backed off from their settings again . Hopefully soon I'll be getting a full set of stock 3100 rockers because this issue is driving me nuts.

[caffeine]

Do you have the injector lag times set up correctly? Often that can cause issues like you're having; hunting idle and inability to maintain a steady 14.7 AFR.

[Maverick H1L]

Okay, let's try this again...

Well, yesterday I had the brilliant idea of following the advice of others on forums here and there and decided to try going with the MS2Extra code. After 3 hours of manually inputting numbers (because the MS2Extra doesn't just import what you already have), I plugged into the MS2 and went for it. The result? Either a, the engine won't start, b, the engine runs for approximately 2 seconds and dies, or 3, runs like a diesel. Mostly a. So I went back to MS2 v2.92 code and it runs fine.

It's funny how back in September I could lay 50 feet of rubber if I wanted to, with a vacuum leak. After the leak was fixed, I can't even get the car to where it will even get out of its own way.

Still wants to idle rich, between 12 and 13:1. Here are the current injector settings, now that the other computer wants to work:

General Settings, g/s Injector Flow Rate: 3.922

Injector Characteristics:
Open Time: 1.0 ms
Voltage Correction: 0.2 ms/V
PWM Current Limit: 100%
PWM Time Threshold: 25.5 ms
Injector PWM Period: 65 usec

Injection Control:
Req Fuel: 15.1 (as calculated), 5.07 msec
Speed Density algorithm
# squirts: 6 (no, I'm not going to touch this as it starts much quicker at 6 than 2 or 3)
Alternate staging
4-stroke engine
6 cylinders
Port Injection
6 injectors

[Maverick H1L]

Well, I'm not entirely sure what I did over the last couple of days, but I seem to have gotten about 2/3 of my power back. No more initial off-idle hole and I can just about spin the tires again.

Need some help with the VE table and injector settings... I'm running rich from one side of the VE table to the other, but the engine refuses to run any leaner. At cruise, I seem to be running between 12 and 13.5:1 AFR. Acceleration is still quite richer than I would prefer, around 10:1 AFR.

I'm attaching today's datalog and my current MSQ. Any help would be appreciated.

(well, I was planning on adding the zip file, but the attachments dialog isn't working apparently... So anyone who is willing, I'll email it to you)