MS2 Setup Help

[Maverick H1L]

Well, I'm going to put aside the ignition (hardware) issue for the moment until I get a fresh battery.

But, now I'm having an issue with TunerStudio and the ignition (software) setup. According to the MSefi directions for the DIS, I'm supposed to edit the maincontroller.ini file to change the max_coil_dur line from 8.00 to 25.50 to get the 50% duty cycle recommended.

Okay, I've changed the file. And double checked that it's been changed. And restarted TS (even shut the laptop off overnight and restarted it before trying to reset the dwell duration). But when I go to try to change the max dwell duration in the TS dialog, I still get the "Can't change... Max allowed setting is 8.00" (or whatever exactly it says).

It's TS 2.0.8 with MSII Rev 2.905 (no, I'm not interested in running MS2Extra). Is this something where I need to have the laptop hooked up to the MSII to change?

[Maverick H1L]

48 views and nobody can help?

Oh, and could someone clarify the initial trigger offset setting for me? I've read and re-read the instructions on the MSEFI site and it's still about as clear as mud... What I really need to know is whether or not I'm supposed to expect the TDC mark to be well off of the timing scale and if so, around what setting?

[caffeine]

Isn't the reference notch 10* After one of the 60* notches? IIRC the 60* notches are 60* BTDC.

[robertisaar]

if you're using an unmodified ICM, then it sounds like you're looking for a reference angle. 60* would be it.

[dskopek]

DIYAutoTune.com Sales (Matt) <websales@diyautotune.com>
Use the above address and tell Matt what trouble you are having and he will get back to you and let you know what you will have to do. He has seen most problems that you can have with MS, Might be real simple, hope this helps

[Maverick H1L]

Well, I figured out that particular issue... I was modifying the wrong INI file (the backup). It's fine now.

Anyone have a decent working start MSQ for a 3.1 RWD/3100 small port hybrid running 11.4:1 compression with est 225 HP@5750 RPM and 235 TQ@3750? It's running now (think I found the tune on here somewhere but it's not even close), but it's running pig rich (based on the exhaust note... I've heard something similar before but this is that x20! I'll pull the plugs tomorrow when the engine has cooled to make sure). The exhaust is loud like you wouldn't believe. Yes, I know I need to get the thing that goes into the breather hole on what would be the rear rocker cover (don't have it right now).
Also need to know the kPa values of the single BAR GM MAP sensor at 0V and 5V to plug into the calibration table?

[robertisaar]

GM 1BAR MAP, 0 volts = 10.354kPa, 5 volts = 104.562kPa.

[Maverick H1L]

Thanks. I'm sure that is probably one of the reasons it's running so rich. Now I need to calibrate the Ford MAF I'm running (yes, I know, should've gotten a late-model GM MAF, but it was cheaper).

:edit: And could use a decent workable after-start enrichment curve... Doesn't seem to matter how low I set it, it runs the same.

[Maverick H1L]

It's getting new (well, used, but still) fuel injectors... I knew they didn't hold the fuel pressure for beans, but I had no idea they were as bad as they are.

Spark question... What's the max spark I can safely work with for a while with the 3100 heads? Right now, the calibration I'm using has a 16 or so degree idle spark, and I'd like it somewhere about 6-7 degrees more advanced (like the iron heads were at idle). It would stink if I could only get about 8 degrees additional spark between idle and WOT.

And is there any way to "simulate" highway mode with the MS? I'd like to see 30 MPG again if possible, or better.

[caffeine]

I run about 24* at idle with 3500 heads and 20* at 100kPa. Not sure how high compression would affect spark though.

[robertisaar]

i could post factory main SA tables for the 94-95 3100 applications, if those would be of any use. L/N are more or less identical, W is different.

[Maverick H1L]

I think that I'll start around 18* and work my way up... I do have the knock sensor installed but I need to modify the MSII again (I hate dropping that out from behind the 4th gen dash...) to finish the hookups, because I didn't fully read the mod page for it .

[Maverick H1L]

Nuts...

Went and replaced the fuel injectors (305 injectors, 19#) with Vette fuel injectors (22#) hoping I might solve the puzzle of where my fuel pressure keeps going when the pump shuts off with NO external leaks and the engine itself reeking of leaking gas (you know, leaking injectors, since my FPR doesn't leak and I've verified that by completely removing the vacuum hose with the engine running). And the reason I upped the rating of the fuel injectors was so I could drop to stock fuel pressure again (need 22# injectors).

Still losing fuel pressure. Still running rich as all get-out, and TS keeps making it worse (auto-tune running). O2S keeps reading around .15V when fully warmed up. I know I still need to get the pipe for what used to be the rear valve cover to the bellows and stick a breather filter on it (because I can't use my breather filter just into the hole with the ignition in the way). I believe I also need to fix a couple stripped holes on the other valve cover... But that doesn't explain why it's running RICH and not lean...

[caffeine]

Can you remove the fuel rail and crank the engine to see if you can see any leaks? With the injectors and fuel lines still connected of course.

[Maverick H1L]

I guess I'll go ahead and pull the upper plenum tomorrow and sniff down each runner for gas. If I had an IR pyrometer, I could tell which cylinder(s) were the issue by measuring the exhaust temp at the primaries. Don't even need to crank the engine... I can tell by the gauge that I'm not holding pressure (which is set at 45 PSI).

I also need to fix that blasted leak I have at the power steering box... I've tried everything for it...