got a powrtuner!

[TGP37]

These are the steps i was told to use when using a LS1 Map on my car :
These have to done in tiny tuner


First open "configuration-->Baro-->always use default baro" and set it to 1 for yes.
Then go down to "Default Baro" and enter a number. Might want to check the baro for where you are with your scanner and current MAP. It should be close to 100Kpa though.
Next go to "fuel-->map-->default max map" and set it to 200Kpa (this is 2bar or 14.7 psi above normal atmospheric pressure).
Then go down to "map scaling factor" and set that to 200.
Then go down to "map sensor offset" and set that to 7.99 (it will actually save as 7.988281)

That should be it. Five changes. Save it as a new file name in whatever folder you access to write with DHP, then open your DHP tuner and flash it to your PCM

That is correct.


Eric, The VE table needs tuned just in case the MAF fails (if you choose to tune it). The VE Table max's out at 140 kPa, I set the 140 kPa tables to go extra rich. So if the MAF bombs out at peak boost (about 180 kPa at 12 psig) it won't go lean fueling for 140 kPa when it is really 180 kPa.

This is why the MAF sensor is so great. Not limited as much as VE tables are. A stock MAF should support up to 14.7 psi flow.

If you run real close to the limit, like 14 psi boost, you need good boost control. If you hit the limit the MAF or MAP can read, every step up in psi after goes lean.


But seriously, 12-14 psi on a fiero 3500 is going to slam doors and pull HARD.

[3400-95-Modified]

I guess I went a little further than that since I copied alot of L67 tables over but it seems to be working the way it is right now... But I will report a log with Baro in it soon... He doesn't drive the car with salt/snow on the roads so I'll have to wait, but I can't blame him for not.

[TGP37]

I guess I went a little further than that since I copied alot of L67 tables over but it seems to be working the way it is right now... But I will report a log with Baro in it soon... He doesn't drive the car with salt/snow on the roads so I'll have to wait, but I can't blame him for not.

Here in the burgh salt on the road is like a natural resource all winter long.

And I see the NE is about to get hammered again this winter.

Here is my theory on the barometric rise:

The Baro relearn function reacts to steady MAP readings. It doesn't kick up immediately but it does respond. Which that log is on a 1 bar, a 2 bar won't red line like that. I believe a set amount of time passes with a map reading that doesn't change will trigger the baro relearn.

But then we can theorize maxing out the 2 bar map (or any map) will lead to Baro table increase. Something that might elude a tuner and mess with the data if they ever hit a boost spike past the MAPs range.

[ericjon262]

here's what I've done so far...

1 imported LS1 MAF(dhp)
2 Change IFR (DHP)(old/new)insert percent in DHP
3 trans type 0 (tt)
4 always use default baro set to 1 (TT)
5 set default max map to 300 (tt)
6 set map sensor scaler to 300 (TT)
7 set map sensor offset to -11.25 (TT)
8 number of cat tests per trip set to 0 (TT)
9 set p0135 p0137 p0138 p0140 p0141 p0401 and p1406 to no reporting (3) (DHP)
10 set high RPM threshold to 8500 RPM(TT)
11 set torque abuse drive injector disable to 0 under tq mngmnt>fuel(tt)
12 high rpm fuel cut set to 8500(TT)
13 set tq abuse pn inj dsbl to 0 (TT)
14 set tq abuse drv inj dsabl to 0 (TT)
15 set TCS inj dsbl to 0 on all TCS levels (TT)
16 set dsbl all inj hgh mph to 255(TT)
17 set dsbl 1 inj hgh mph to 255(TT)
18 set dsbl 2 inj hgh mph to 255(TT)
19 set TCS nbl to 300 (TT)
20 set tq diff score inj dsbl to 0 (TT)
21 TCS sprk rtrd to 0 (TT)
22 set min rpm for mph shtff to 9000 (TT)
23 TCS xtr sprk rtrd to 0 (TT)
24 tq abuse spd nbl set to 255 (TT)
25 tq abs sprk rtrd set to 0 (TT)
26 tq diff scr rtrd set to 0 (TT)
27 tq abs rpm nbl set to 9000(TT)
28 tq abs TP nbl set to 104/105(TT)
29 EGR air temp dsbl set to 300 (tt)

[ericjon262]

I just finished disabling all of the auto transmission related codes in DHP, now for my next question, code P704 is for clutch switch input, is there a way to wire in a clutch switch to a 3400 PCM? I didn't see it in the pinout I used to wire my car, but I'd be interested in letting the PCM know what's going on.

[TGP37]

Maybe, not sure, but wire in a clutch switch which grounds the signal wires that tell the PCM the trans is in P/N. When released the grounded wires match the signals.

On my PCM version, they are TR Switch A, B, C & D.

A: PCM Blu 69
B: PCM Clear 23
C: PCM Clear 25
D: PCM Blu 72


Grounding TR Switch wires B & C tells the PCM car is in Drive

Grounding TR Switch wires B & D tells the PCM car is in Neutral

So ground wire B and switch between wires C and D with the clutch switch. You need a switch which toggles between two terminals instead of an on/off switch. Or use a relay triggered from the clutch switch that toggles terminals depending on the trigger circuit powered or not from the clutch switch.

[ericjon262]

Maybe, not sure, but wire in a clutch switch which grounds the signal wires that tell the PCM the trans is in P/N. When released the grounded wires match the signals.

On my PCM version, they are TR Switch A, B, C & D.

A: PCM Blu 69
B: PCM Clear 23
C: PCM Clear 25
D: PCM Blu 72


Grounding TR Switch wires B & C tells the PCM car is in Drive

Grounding TR Switch wires B & D tells the PCM car is in Neutral

So ground wire B and switch between wires C and D with the clutch switch. You need a switch which toggles between two terminals instead of an on/off switch. Or use a relay triggered from the clutch switch that toggles terminals depending on the trigger circuit powered or not from the clutch switch.

I never thought of that... and I have to say, I like it!

Edit:

now, I have the PCM set as a manual transmission, will it pickup the PND pins? I also think I want to wire in a switch to act as "park" I heard of someone having trouble doing a case learn because the PCM couldn't see the car was in park...

[TGP37]

I can't say for sure if it works with out a hitch. But it seems logical enough. In reality it isn't lying to the PCM. As neutral is clutch in, just keep the rev limit high so it doesn't cut fuel between shifts (PCM will switch to P/N and Drive often via clutch). Idle speeds will also need to be matched so as to not screw with the IAC, P/N versus Drive and a few others like AE tables, start up tables that differentiate between P/N or Drive. Not too many and all available in TT or DHP.

I copied the Drive tables to the P/N tables through out the tune.......same reason as you, manual swap. Ones you may consider keeping seperate are AFR tables for start up, AE tables if it doesn't screw with the AFR when shifting quickly....it's a project.

Another custom feature I consider is....

Grounding the MAF signal line through a switch in the dash. Then one could switch from MAF mode to Speed Density mode quickly and easily. When tuning, it helps instead of pulling the plug in the engine bay. One reason is MAF is more accurate on the low end and the MAP SD is more accurate in the top end. Seems to reason a good SD tune can provide more accurate AFR when racing and MAF mode is good for cruising, DD.

Could also control the O2 ground wire with another simple on/off switch. Toggle between open loop and closed loop. In which case I plan to make the open loop tables richer in AFR for performance versus a steady 14.7 until PE mode is activated. The OL tables will be richer AFR earlier in the RPM curve but still slide into PE mode smoothly.

How's that for on-dash control? Maf/SD and OL/CL......of course I still need to test on the road to make sure it doesn't cause any unforseen issues.

here is a pic of the dash switches installed. Left to right under the radio...monetary starter switch (unused), MAF/SD, OL/CL, on/off (unused), heater vent, heater on/off, 3way temp control.

[ericjon262]

here's another good one one of the 3800 guys came up with... anti lag!

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/091053-4.html

put a switch on the IAT sensor, and command a timing retard when the switch is thrown! brutally simple, but it works!

[TGP37]

here's another good one one of the 3800 guys came up with... anti lag!

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/091053-4.html

put a switch on the IAT sensor, and command a timing retard when the switch is thrown! brutally simple, but it works!

Yeah, something like 40k resistance but I think an adjustable pot resistor would be nice, in dash adjust-ability.

Just don't use the rev limit in the PCM, it cuts fuel not spark. Could go lean at high rpms.

[ericjon262]

Yeah, something like 40k resistance but I think an adjustable pot resistor would be nice, in dash adjust-ability.

Just don't use the rev limit in the PCM, it cuts fuel not spark. Could go lean at high rpms.

I already set them to 8500 RPMS, I was thinking I might bump them up higher than that too just to be sure.

[ga2001532]

Wow after almost 10 months my car drives normal all from that one setting for the manual. Thanks.

[ericjon262]

Wow after almost 10 months my car drives normal all from that one setting for the manual. Thanks.

Awesome!

[ericjon262]

Wow after almost 10 months my car drives normal all from that one setting for the manual. Thanks.

does your PCM have any kind of input for the clutch at all? got a pinout of how you wired it up?

Thanks-
Eric.

[ga2001532]

I am not sure if it does because I never bothered with the wire. Since my pedal assembly didn't come with the switch. I just keep it in neutral unless I know the remote start is set to off. I know to depress the clutch. But my ebrake don't work back wards anymore