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A buddy of mine got HP Tuners and i did a scan..

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  • A buddy of mine got HP Tuners and i did a scan..

    And i had a few things to ask about my scan. Can anyone tell me what my timeing should be at WOT, What my max fuel injector duty should be, And what my O2 readings should be? If there is anything else i am missing on the scan please be sure to let me know. I Put my stock airbox back on for my 0-90 run and it helped a LOT with my IAT's I am also running 89 in it untill i run this tank out, Then it's geting shell 93. BTW i have done no tuneing whatsoever yet.

    Thanks.

    Mike.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by mike0589; 05-13-2009, 01:59 PM.
    1998 Monte Carlo LS, Dark Carmine Red Metallic.
    P&P 3400 UIM, LIM, And TB.
    Custom FWI / Descreened MAF.
    Polyurethane Dogbone Engine Mounts.
    MMS PCM, Dyno Tuned.
    180*T-Stat.
    Custom Shift Kit.
    Taylor ThunderVolt 8.2mm Spark Plug Wires.
    LQ1/LHO Oil Filter.
    GMPP Front And Rear STB's.
    SS Rear Brake Lines.

  • #2
    A couple of observations from the first file starting around data frame 3270 and going to 3350

    Fueling needs attention soon, fuel trims are huge STFT of like 26, LTFT of 8. As soon as you go WOT and into open loop the STFT's go to zero, effectively removing a huge amount of fuel. Notice how lean the NB O2 reading is. You really need to have the MAF curve fixed (and VE table, depending on the operating system).

    Worry about timing after fixing the lean condition, then you'll have a better idea on whether the KR is due to a lean condition or not.

    PS - get a wide band, it's the only reliable way to tune your fueling when in open loop

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    • #3
      With OBD-II, to tune it properly you really need a WB 02. It's the only way to properly tune the MAF tables to get the commanded AFR (Air-Fuel Ratio) that you put in the computer. The only other way to tune the car would be to remove the MAF and do VE tuning. But that kind of defeats the purpose of OBD-II.
      I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.

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      • #4
        Here I go with the flood gates again. I use the NB to tune cruise, it's what you'll be using in the end anyway and the WB to tune PE. This way when you command PE, you'll get exactly what is programed every time. You need those trims to lock in at 0 or the VCM will "carry" any values through the entire range of your run! I have found that if you tune cruise with your WB it will be out by a % or two when you put the NB back in. For now you can tune your cruise range with the tuner as is, but, I cannot stress this enough, DO NOT TOUCH PE WITHOUT A WB.

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