Starting LX9 swapped 86 Fiero 4 speed manual

[caffeine]

I've just gotten my swap to the point where I should be able to start the engine, but am currently stumped.
Some background info:
LS1 fuel filter (55psi constant verified with fuel pressure gauge)
compression checked out on 3 rear cylinders (200, 190, 200)
Getting spark on all 6 cylinders
Running Ostrich 2.0 with stock 91 3.1L J-body tune (7730 ECM); EGR, EVAP are deleted.
To be sure the rails weren't filled with air we 'bled' the rails with the schrader valve and found that the fuel pressure actually builds up much faster than before. However, nothing changed.

The check engine light comes on with key on, engine off, but it doesn't do anything differently when I jumper A-B on the ALDL. I haven't been able to get any datastream from the computer either which is odd. The check engine light indicates that the computer is at least partially working. My cable has the ability to use a built-in 10k ohm resistor to get a datastream, using this resistor doesn't change anything. Also, it was turning the radiator fan on with the key in the on position (and also turns on the engine bay blower, wired to the same circuit IIRC). For now I have the fan unplugged. Is it likely my computer is wired wrong or more likely my computer is bad? Am I wrong in assuming I should at least get the odd fire using a stock 3.1L tune as a base?

I believe that my injectors aren't firing for one reason or another but have verified they're getting power and while cranking the ECM injector wires seem to get a fluctuating reading, although I have no idea if they're getting signaled properly by the ECM. I appear to have no fuel exiting the manifolds.

I'd really appreciate advice on this thanks!

[Joseph Upson]

There's a problem with your chip/ecm configuration or equipment. At ignition on and no crank, the engine light should flash once. If it doesn't, something is wrong. If the coolant fan comes on when you turn the ignition key to on without crank, something is wrong and it is usually the chip/code mask. Make sure you have the Ostrich programmed with the correct code mask for the ecm.

[caffeine]

There's a problem with your chip/ecm configuration or equipment. At ignition on and no crank, the engine light should flash once. If it doesn't, something is wrong. If the coolant fan comes on when you turn the ignition key to on without crank, something is wrong and it is usually the chip/code mask. Make sure you have the Ostrich programmed with the correct code mask for the ecm.

At ignition on, no crank, the engine light comes on and stays on. I think it turns off during cranking but I'm not 100% sure. The ECM I'm using is from an '88 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 2.8L and the codemask I'm using is $A1 (double checked just now). The ECM also happens to be a remanufactured one if that's relevant and has a different number on it (but when I checked it out, it's just an updated number for a 7730).

[caffeine]

Just tried manually firing the injectors through the injector harness with a 9V battery and the fuel pressure didn't change (I expect it would if the injectors were firing). I do hear a clicking sound when I apply power but I hear it at the connector itself and not from the fuel injectors which is where I would expect to hear it

[Joseph Upson]

Just tried manually firing the injectors through the injector harness with a 9V battery and the fuel pressure didn't change (I expect it would if the injectors were firing). I do hear a clicking sound when I apply power but I hear it at the connector itself and not from the fuel injectors which is where I would expect to hear it

If the engine light does not flash once with key on there is something wrong, even if the light is on. The fan coming on with the key on is another sure indication something is wrong. I don't think 1 9 volt battery is enough to open 3 injectors under pressure at once, I could be wrong.

[caffeine]

If the engine light does not flash once with key on there is something wrong, even if the light is on. The fan coming on with the key on is another sure indication something is wrong. I don't think 1 9 volt battery is enough to open 3 injectors under pressure at once, I could be wrong.

Ya I was doing one injector at a time with the plenum removed.

Anyways I got my injectors cleaned and also figured out what was wrong with the computer. I feel like an idiot but I hadn't pushed my G1 adapter far enough down into the computer, causing it to freak out and go into something like limp mode (I think this is why the fan was turning on).