Z24 ADAL Help Please

[Timmotech]

Hello
This is my first post on this forum. Although, I have known about this website for years...

Initial issue:
I have been chasing an issue with my car for years (since I first built it). For some reason I cant get my car to idle correctly.. When I first start the car, it will idle from 1000 to 1500 rpm. As soon as I put the car in gear, it will shoot up to 3000 without going down unless you let it scream for about a minute or two, than it will sometimes knock town until I change gears again. I have checked every vacuum line, replaced every sensor, and cant seem to be able to fix the problem..

As a workaround:
I can unplug the speed sensor, and the issue is almost opposite. Sometimes the car will shoot up the RPMs when you first start the car, and sometimes you will have to lay on the gas to keep the thing running.

Mods:
I first bought a chip from the 60degreeV6 store. Seems to do a little but nothing to help with this issue.

I have since built a custom Map sensor adjuster http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/MAP_adjuster.html , which does a really good job smoothing out the idle and increasing throttle response.

The next project I'm working on is reading the ECU. I got the brilliant idea of saving money and making an ADAL cable to read whats going on with my car.

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/viewtopic,p,613118.html

Question 1:
Does this even work with my car?

I didn't have a serial port on my laptop, so instead of spending $30 for a USB converter, I hooked my desktop computer in my car to see if the cable I made works. I fired up Freescan, and nothing seemed to work.. I plugged the DATA cable into the bottom right hand pin of the OBD connecting terminal thingy (the pin right underneath the 2 diagnostic pins that you connect together with a paper clip) The only thing that comes up in Freescan is a repeating "gathering header information", or something to that affect. When I unplug the cord it stops.. That's how it know its at least getting a signal.

Question 2:
Can someone help me out here? Or, at least point me in the right direction.. Id be much obliged

Thanks in advance.

[Timmotech]

Sorry, here is what I have done to my car...
89 z24 switch w3.1 MPFI; Compcams 290H; Ported heads and TB; Roller Rockers and springs upgrade; 24lb Injectors, 65psi fuel pump; K&N intake; Gutted Cat

Audio: Kicker CRV 1200 15" (built into the spare wheel well) powered by a crossfire 1200D, MAaudio 600w 2-chan for interiors.. Chepo head unit that does mp3's and usb/sd slot you can pick up for $80 at Target... My clarion broke as usual.

Future: next week I'm getting these Headers "V6 SPRINT MANIFOLD SET WITH HEAT COATING" http://www.fierostore.com/Product/Browse.aspx?d=221&p=1 (impossible to find for this car) I actually want to post this to help people out.. these are just about the only headers you can buy for this price that will fit the 3.1/2.8 MPFI motor.. They are for a Fiero, but fit just fine.. Only mod you need to make is drilling out the mount holes a little bit

Needs some body work, I can make it a show car in a weekend or 2...

I am also going to do a turbo, but need to find out some information before I decide what one I'm going to choose..

Peace!

[jmgtp]

I never got Freescan to work right when using a USB adapter for the serial port. It would work until I started driving and then stop. I tried it on an old laptop that had a serial port and it worked great but the sad truth is its tough to come by a laptop with a serial port these days.

Are you sure you have freescan set to interact?

You may want to give TunerPro a try. I have the RT version and it works flawlessly with the usb/serial adapter. I think it is far better than Freescan anyway. There should be some free versions floating around on the net.

Here is the part I'm not sure on but I will share my experience...
I think you might have an issue being it is an 89. I believe the pre 91 cars don't work correctly with freescan maybe even tunerpro and I think it had some to do with the the way the aldl port was wired. I had a 90 beretta for a few years and Freescan would only read iac and map signal and nothing else would register. I could be way off base here, that is just my experience and I think I recall it being mentioned a long time ago that my model year 90 was the problem.

I know you checked vac lines but what about manifold/throttle body/etc gaskets. IAC valve sticking? Sounds like you have a terrible vacuum leak.

[Superdave]

you need to read these 2 threads:

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/getting-started-with-ecm-tuning-t73503.html

and

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/tuning-faq-t102758.html

Then do alot more research on engine performance and upgrades.

there is no Comp 290H, and 24lb injectors are way overkill for a 3.1.. the stock 16.5's would handle the changes you've made. The MAP sensor adjuster is a horrible idea and should be removed immediately.

Put your stock injectors back in since that's what your chip is tuned for, then remove that MAP sensor trick and it should run MUCH better.

Fiero headers are not only made for iron heads, but for a completely different engine bay. they won't fit without heavy modification and IMO there are much better options out there.

[Timmotech]

Oops...
Correction, I have the Comp 260H, 17lb injectors

The MAP sensor idea is great. I was getting exhaust too lean error codes and MAP error codes before I installed this thing last week.

My chip isn't really adjusted yet. I have to buy the Burn2, so I can adjust it.

If you have a better idea for my headers I'd love to hear it. I already lined these up, and they fit in the bay just fine, I'll post some pictures when I get them in.

Removing the Map sensor just makes the car run crappier. I have had the map sensor adjuster for two weeks... I have had this idle issue for 2 years. Even with the stock injectors.

I'm going to change out the PCV valve today, and see if that does anything, and check for vacuum leaks everywhere again. When i cover up the intake The motor doesn't really choke, so it may be some hidden vac leak I guess.

I didn't use a USB to SERIAL adapter for the ADAL cable, but thanks for the heads up. I also never put the program in interactive mode. So I'll have to try that today. I have no idea how to use tuner pro for reading the computer. I think i need the RT version.

Thx..

[Timmotech]

Thank-you guys

I checked off interactive mode, and everything shows up when i smack the throttle.
I found out that the throttle body needs to be replaced because of ware.. I cant believe that I overlooked that all these times...

Thanks you guys...

Ill soon have to take the fastest j-body of 2009

[Superdave]

I checked off interactive mode, and everything shows up when i smack the throttle.
I found out that the throttle body needs to be replaced because of ware.. I cant believe that I overlooked that all these times...

Thanks you guys...

Ill soon have to take the fastest j-body of 2009

buahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah.. no chance

[pocket-rocket]

Fooling with the stuff that tells the ECM what is going on with the engine is a bad idea. Why fool it with a MAP trick (kinda like the IAT resistor trick, but worse) when you can scan it and tune it for real and get much better results without having to worry about engine damage (unless of course you get stupid with your A/F ratio). Chances are if you were getting exhaust too lean codes, then you probably had too lean of an A/F ratio (very bad for engines).

FWIW, I like Tunerpro RT much better then Freescan too. Sometimes Freescan would disconnect while going down the road and I wouldn't know it because I was paying attention to the road. I've shut the car off while leaving Tunerpro running while going in somewhere, come back, fired up the car, opened up my laptop and Tunerpro picked up where it left off from the scan without so much as me touching a button. IMHO, Tunerpro has a much more stable/reliable connection method then Freescan.

[SappySE107]

my USB aldl cable works flawless on my T43.

65psi is not 17# unless you went with smaller injectors. Im surprised the chip works at all with your setup. The idle problem sounds like a 5 volt reference to me but you need to scan it and see what it looks like.

Worn TB? no way.

[torq455]

if you have to rig up something in order to get the map to perform correctly, then you simply need a new map. same for the iac.