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  • #31
    Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
    I just had the crazy thought that it would be easier for me at this point to install all the TBI components and bring this experiment to a close. But where is the fun in that right? I must admit it's pretty tempting.
    Don't give up, wire it and you'll get it running.
    Originally posted by Superdave View Post
    um, load up $A1 with a stock bin and look at the initial spark advance value.. it's 9.14. Then look at the spark ref angle.. it's 59.8 degrees. It's clearly mapped and noted in the $A1 code dissassembly as well.


    8013 1A 26 KINITSPK 9 DEG INITIAL SPARK ADVANCE
    801B AA 170 KREFANGL 59.8 DEG SPARK REFERENCE ANGLE


    I did find the routines where values from both addresses are loaded, it's not noted how each is used to calculate the delivered spark advance though.
    Do you think that since there both used in the A1 that the rwd bins should have about 68 deg to count for the both? It'll be a few days before I get a chance to try it but I do remeber that the rwd bins at 9 deg acted like they were really low in time and poped threw the intake some. The main reason I went back to the A1 was the car seemed like it had more power even with a rougher tune, that maybe becouse the s-aujp might have needed 9 deg more timing. Will be hooking my wb02 up this weekend and well see.

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    • #32
      SWEEEEEET! It runs on both the $88 I set up and the $A1 code Superdave tweaked for me! Thanks everyone!
      '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
      '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
      '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
      '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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      • #33
        Well it does act like it's slow in time if you don't set the distributor setting to 59.7 degrees. Today I found out why, this was posted on another form for ff to use code59 on a dis motor. It tells why it has to be done which is when a rwd bin is used for dis it retards the timing 60 degrees across the board. The way it sounds it may also be done using other tables, but not for sure with the factory bins.
        Last edited by 923.4v6; 03-24-2009, 04:54 PM.

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        • #34
          here's the link http://www.code59.org/index.php?opti...=5960&catid=12

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          • #35
            This project got pushed back a little bit. I've been waiting for a friend to modify my 3.1 LIM (but just got it back yesterday). And I bought another Trooper that I've been tweaking on too.

            I must admit that I'm getting real tempted to revert to a distributor for simplicity sake, as I won't have a real good place to mount the coil packs anymore.

            I have my cam and springs installed, and gasket surfaces cleaned up, so it's about time to put this thing back together. Suppose I could clean up my timing cover and water pump a bit better too, match all the other shiny new bits.
            '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
            '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
            '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
            '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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            • #36
              unrelated question, but what side is the front driveshaft on in your truck ? is the diff on the pass or drivers side ?
              11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
              10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

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              • #37
                Passenger side.
                '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                Comment

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