burning questions

[robertisaar]

this might be a common question but: is this all i need to tune the computers in the following:
my fiances 90 GP
a computer i bought off of a member here and is listed as a 16149396. it has a 27c256 chip with the following written on it:
16045915 AD27C256 E 5012AC U128017MC 8304 8304 1081198. and on the blue plastic cover is:
awmj 6136

i have found both the XDF(using tunerpro) and BIN file for the second computer and made the datalog definition using info from diy-efi.org

the gp i cant find anything that is correct: found bins and ecu/xdf but none seem to work. i'm assuming i'll be able to pull the bin from the chip when i have a burner. but i still need a xdf or ecu file for it

has atsn 6560 written on the cover and on the chip it has 014 045915 AD8945B
it is a remanufactured 1227727.

i'm cruising through moates.net and this is what i think i need:

BURN1 Flash-n-Burn USB-Based Chip Programmer
C3 AMD AM29F040B Chip
G3 Bank Switching Adapter

i'm thinking they all work together but i just want to make sure before i commit a bunch of cash.
i've already been datalogging the gp with my obd1 cable, now i want to make another step up.
feel free to critcise and refine my list as needed.
and i like the ability to switch between programs
not sure if i need a socket...

any help would be appreciated

[Guest]

Burn1 will work fine. I personally use a Willems GQ-3X True USB programmer.

You don't need the 4MB EEPROM, unless you want multiple bins available at the twist of a knob that would be plugged into the G3.

A G1 would be the MEMCAL adaptor needed. A GP1 that comes with a ZIF socket and two SST 27SF512 EEPROMs will work nicely, but may not fit under the MEMCAL cover, with the ZIF socket in place.

I would suggest also grabbing a HDR1, this is an adaptor to use with the stock MEMCAL to retrieve the bin, without the need to desolder or modify the MEMCAL.

Once you have the bin pulled from the original EPROM, the correct xdf can be determined.

[robertisaar]

i really like the idea of having multiple bins on one chip that way i can switch between regular gas, premium, E85, alcohol, etc... as for not fitting under the cover, i can do many things to make that a non-issue so i couldn't care less... how does this added information change my shopping cart now?

[Guest]

Yes, multiple bins can be good.

You will also need the EX switch, to remote switch the G3 http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=47
You can use the G3 without it, but would need access to the ECM to switch between the bins. I would also suggest a ZIF socket so that the EEPROM removal and reinstallation will be easier and less likely to damage the pins on the EEPROM.

BTW, the BURN1 has now been supperceded by the BURN2, the site just hasn't been updated yet.

Have you considered an emulator to tune real time? You can then save each bin and burn them to the EEPROM as you add more. Real time tuning is very nice. Take a look at the Ostrich 2.0.

[robertisaar]

i've thought about it, but i just don't see that much benefit... it would be nice but i don't think i would be updating the tune THAT frequently for it to be worth the extra money for ostrich. and what all advantages are there for the burn2 compared to burn1... from the description of burn1, i really can't think of anything else i would want from it, but i'm not the one that made it either...

now what all would be on my shopping list now...

and yes, i am taking warning about the ZIF socket (seeing that i don't really want the ostrich, ZIF seems much safer)

[Guest]

REal Time emulations just allows getting to the final bin much faster. I would suggest to consider it, get the programmer and EEPROM(s) now, but when you see just how many times you need to pull the EEPROM to change something in the bin, I think you'll start to see how much easier it is to just plug in a USB cable and make the changes while the engine is running.

The BURN2 is the replacement for the BURN1. That is what you'll get, BURN2 supercedes BURN1. BURN2 is basically the same as BURN1 in features and use, it's just smaller.

Other than that, since you have an ALDL cable already, you should be good to go.

[unruhjonny]

Sorry to cut in here - but I'm seeing a problem with moates flash & burn and the 27c256 chip;
It say's it's a read only chip....so the "burn chip" button remains greyed out.

I have intnetionally bought he hdr1 adapter because I don't want to take chips apart, and i have been slowly accumulating spares (that have the same 'run home' for my car) which have the window so that I can erase them...
all fine and dandy - I now have bins that I can modify, and blanck chips... but I can't burn them??

How do you guys get around this?

Do you tell the burner that the chip is a different type, and change the hex addresses?

[Guest]

Sorry I don't have a Burn1, I have a Willem USB GQ-3X (and dual power) that will do just about any chip a hobbiest could want.

I don't reprogram the stock EPROMs, since using the SST27SF512s is easy and inexpensive.

[SappySE107]

The burn1 does not burn 27C256. The willem programmer isn't as easy to use but it will do just about anything.

27SF512 is the easiest way. Even the stock 27C256 chip will fail after a couple burns anyway and aftermarket 27C chips may not exist now. The direct replacement 29C256 was discontinued a couple years ago I believe.

[robertisaar]

now that the weddings over, i can put some money into the car instead of a her dress.

OK is this my final shopping list(for both cars):

BURN2 Flash-n-Burn USB-Based Chip Programmer
C3 AMD AM29F040B Chip
C3 AMD AM29F040B Chip
G3 Bank Switching Adapter
G3 Bank Switching Adapter
HDR1
EX switch
EX switch
S3 Aries 32-pin ZIF Socket
S3 Aries 32-pin ZIF Socket
Ostrich 2.0
?

[Guest]

Looks good to me.

I usually buy one extra EEPROM, just in case something happens, but I'm paranoid like that.

I've been running on my Ostrich now since I got the car running about a month and a half ago, and keep meaning to burn th elatest bin to an EEPROM just in case, but I haven't needed to. Now that I've said that, I'll likely need to.

Don't forget to get your free T-shirt and sticker, for orders over $299. You actually have to select it to get them sent along.

[robertisaar]

so my total is gonna come up to...
what do ya know, $454.
not a cheap hobby to get into but after this i could probably make a few bucks doing it on the side... too bad i don't have a dyno

[Guest]

I don't even think about the amount of money I've spent on this hobby.

As far as the tuning products go, look at it this way, it's a small part of the overall picture and to be able to tune to get the overall package dialed in, is just a part of the puzzle.

Oh yeah, If you are going to be using Tuner Pro RT, you can get a discount for the registration from $30 down to $15, for buying an Ostrich 2.0. This gets rid of the 10 second nag screen when you first start TP RT. The program is still fully functional without it, but for the time that Mark has put into creating TP RT, I think it's a VERY fair price.

[robertisaar]

was running through my DF definition and came across some things i wasn't sure about and thought i would ask rather than tweak...

what is eap mode?
what are original fuel injector size for 95 3100?
what should VSS pulses be?
what is rsdc?
how to get VATS value?

will i be able to tell what xdf i need to tune my wife's GP by looking at the value at 08(using tunerpro to make an assumption that the value at 08 is what the mask id is and where its located) and what all mask ids can i run on her ECU and how hard is it to repin(assuming i'll have to)?

[robertisaar]

i know this is old but it is the same topic that i was working with earlier:

tax refund is gonna come around soon and i'll finally have money for this stuff: i'm going to modify the list though and would someone guide me through if i start going off the deep end?

EX Remote Switch
C3 AMD AM29F040B Chip
HDR1 Memcal Header
S3 Aries 32Pin ZIF Socket
Burn2 Flash and Burn

going to hold off on the ostrich for now but i think this shopping list is complete except for one thing:

do i use the G3 Adapter or the GX Adapter? they both seem to do the same thing to me.

and what exactly am i going to have to do to the PCM? desolder the socket that the stock chip/memcal/ plugs into and replace it with the G3/GX?