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Tuning my 3400/3500

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  • #16
    ^^^ On the third log from sample 5250 to 5300 there is a holeshot from 0 mph (stall speed of 2350) to 32 mph on concrete pavement. Massive traction. lol

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    • #17
      Well, I got a long D-log on the way home from work today and I see some knock retard that I need to get rid of. It runs rich in places and lean in others, but I think it may be close in PE. At sample # 6963 the is a long high gear pull. Let me know what you think of my issues.
      Attached Files

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      • #18
        can you post up your current bin file?
        Past Builds;
        1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
        1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
        Current Project;
        1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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        • #19
          Here it is Dave. I just raised the idle to 850 but in the last log I had it set for 800. I was trying different idle speeds because 900 almost seems too high, although it sounds good. lol
          Attached Files

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          • #20
            cool..

            try changing your BPC to 140, it's still lean everywhere and this will allow you more room to adjust WOT fuel when the time comes.
            Past Builds;
            1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
            1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
            Current Project;
            1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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            • #21
              Thanks, I'll do that now and upload it in the morning before I leave for work.

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              • #22
                I set the BPC at 140 this morning. I then made a d-log at lunch time and another on the way home from work. D-log 7 is mostly 30 to 45 mph cruising but at sample # 4016 there is a low gear pull to 6k with a screwed up attempt to let off of the throttle when it shifted, but I missed it. lol There is a good low gear pull to 6k at sample # 8403 of the same log though.

                D-log 9 has a little town driving and then a nice long 45 to 55 mph cruise. Things do look better with the changes and 850 rpm idle sounds good in park and in gear. Here they are:
                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  It has finally happened! I will soon be taking delivery of a set of headers for my car. S&S Grand Am headers modded to fit the Beretta.

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                  • #24
                    Saaaaaaay what? SOB you beat me to it. That;s the 2nd set of headers I've missed out on.
                    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                    Original L82 Longblock
                    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Let me know if you have any issues with them since they are the set i did i'm assuming... Shanes set right?

                      Got Lope?
                      3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                      Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                      Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                      12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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                      • #26
                        ^^^ Right you are. I appreciate the offer Jon, as I am running a 3t40/t125 auto trans and I hoping that they will slide right in with no problems. Did you do Eric's and if so, did you mod them the same way. I know that he is running the same trans and if the mods are the same, I could get lucky. Oh Issac, Ive got two 3500 front manifolds ported out to 2.25" with flanges, or a set of 3400 manifolds (stock crossover pipe) that are ported with a 2.50" Beretta downpipe if you or anyone else is interested. I have the 3400s on my car now, but I wont be needing them long. Let me know cause I'm going to post them up for sale on here and bstuff.

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                        • #27
                          Crapola... Yes I did Eric's but he had an issue with Cylinder 1 pipe, it hits the snout on the trans, (3T40 is larger than the 4t60e in that area, but overall lighter... Go figure) so he had to hammer in the pipe to fit... after that I think it was OK. I guess you can either section that part out and rebuild it with pipe, or do what he did, depending on how critical you are on the pipe being unmolested... Hell he still runs 14.2's

                          Also he had fan fitment issues, so If I were you I would recommend upgrading to the 96 fan from a beretta, they are low profile motors for one, and also have a small cage that shouldn't interfere with the headers.

                          Double check with him but IIRC after those two issues they fit, and after he rebuilt his last collector part like I did he was fine... I cant remember what Shane did but he might have already built that last 45* bend or so to get it in the tunnel without bottoming out.

                          Got Lope?
                          3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                          Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                          Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                          12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Or option C) sell the headers to me, since they will drop right in!!

                            I appreciate the offer on the other stuff, but unless the 3500 manifolds are ready to go into a 4T60-E engine bay and hook up to a cat back, I don't have the time or a welder to fab them up on my daily driver. Work is too far away to walk to....

                            I do need a DP flange and DP, but one for the stock 3100 manifolds. I'm not going to mess with taking off the manifolds and risk breaking off a stud unless it's to put on headers. I have someone else building me a SS DP for stock manifolds so I'm good in that regards. It's just if I had headers then I'd go for that but if not I'll just do the pipe only. If you have a stock 3100 DP flange though I'll take that!
                            Last edited by IsaacHayes; 09-24-2008, 11:07 AM.
                            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                            Original L82 Longblock
                            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I think I have 2 stock downpipe flanges... I'd have to check again.

                              Got Lope?
                              3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                              Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                              Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                              12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                You'll probably have to say goodbye to the sway bar, depending on what year your car is.

                                ~30# of dead weight as far as my needs are concerned, but you may have differing thoughts on that!

                                And number ONE cylinder pipe is going to have to take a bit of a beating. Maybe more than a "bit"

                                But mine are on, no issues and everyones happy except the rear bolts are next to impossible to tighten.

                                You will also need a cut-out of some description, because where the header stop is NOT a good place to open them.

                                Both Jon and I have the $25 variety available from Summit, and it's situated about under the drivers seat in front of the CAT.

                                OH YA~ The Fan.

                                If you have the early four spoke fan housing, you'll be saying goodbye to the top spoke too.

                                Not to worry, it's still plenty strong enough.

                                Stainless metric ARP studs are ~$100 from Summit, and YOU NEED THEM!

                                You can't stud all the holes, but you can most.

                                Stainless allen bolts for the ones you can't and THEN you'll need the Ball type allen keys to get at a couple.

                                Have fun!
                                Last edited by asylummotorsports; 10-01-2008, 02:23 PM.

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