if someone can get the reluctor ring deal working - and get some of the forged cranks reground to work in a 3.4 dohc.. i'll buy one -- I want to build up my 3.dohc turbo with forged parts next year so i can bump the boost and push past the 400whp mark
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7x reluctor ring first sample received for testing
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Originally posted by Kohburnif someone can get the reluctor ring deal working - and get some of the forged cranks reground to work in a 3.4 dohc.. i'll buy one -- I want to build up my 3.dohc turbo with forged parts next year so i can bump the boost and push past the 400whp mark
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Originally posted by Joseph UpsonIf you have forged pistons already that wouldn't be a bad idea, otherwise I believe the problem is more the pistons long before the crank becomes a compromise.
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UPDATE on progress
So far it looks like I'll just need to have the inner diameter increased. I have an oscilloscope, what a blessing, I wasn't even looking for one at the time but an unscheduled visit to a good and long time friend who happens to have all kinds of goodies pulled one out of his stash programmed to test all of the sensor wave forms among other things and let me borrow it for a while.
I don't have my simple but effective camera so the shot of the sensor next to the ring in the block is not as clear as I would like. This is about as much as I can do until the end of the month.
That's a steel crankLast edited by Guest; 06-16-2006, 05:36 AM.
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First Oscilloscope test results
So far so good, I plan to perform the same test on a 3.4L I have in the yard although that might be somewhat cumbersome and time consuming it would be a good comparison. The ultimate test will be connecting the ignition system and looking for the appropriate spark.
The bottom wave form is the crank trigger reading the top is example. My guess is that the faster the crank spins the narrower the wave form. I still have some tweaking to do since I have not made the spacer yet to assure an approximate .050" From the crank I'll have to check my GM manual I think that's what it's supposed to be.Last edited by Guest; 10-20-2006, 05:35 PM.
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It's Alive! It's Alive! I was a bit concerned at first because the make shift SES light I connected still does not flash when the diagnostic terminals are grounded but the fuel pump relay cycled like it was supposed to when power was supplied, then the pintle on the IAC motor was extended until it popped out so I guess I connected it properly. I back probed my ~98% finished harness to make sure nothing was crossed up and everything was attached appropriately before the test.
There was a short in my starter wire so it took 5 minutes for me to figure out that I hadn't burned up the starter doing the compression tests a month ago, then the crank sensor was suspect after confirming power to coil and still no spark, once it was swapped out there was popping music to my ears and what to me was brilliant electric blue light at the 4 plugs sitting on top of the manifold and a nice big one between the terminals on one coil pack as seen on the picture.
Since the SES light is not flashing I'll go through the trouble to try and get everything into place to do a brief crank and run on the stand because I'm concerned about the SES light not flashing in diagnostic mode with the A and B terminals grounded. Between this and the 6spd tranny I've got my work cut out for me.
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