anyone know the pinout on the 4-wire heat element type o2 sensors commonly found in the 3x00 engines?
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single wire o2 to 4-wire o2 conversion
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i'd have to double check my wiring - I did this a few months back to run my 4 wire o2 on a computer thats normally a 1 wire..
normally on the 1 wire setup you have the 1 wire and the second wire is ground going through the metal exhaust - on the 4 wire you have to either wire that one directly to the ecm's 02 ground - or wiring it to the engine block.. the other two wires are a hot in run and another ground..
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Originally posted by silya im guessing the 2 browns are a ground
the white is ?
pink is ?
hmm should heat it up and take a volt meter to them to se which one puts out the variable voltage
mine is kinda dinged... would that affect o2 accuracy ?
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Im also interested in converting to a 4-wire O2. However my wire colors are different. This is the O2 that came stock in my 03 3400. I will post the wire colors later.
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So now that the sedan is off the road for the winter, I really wanna get this heated O2 sensor hooked up. I got ahold of a sensor pigtail (thanks _HeC_) and got a pic of it.
the colors corespond as follows:
pigtail......sensor
tan..........white
black.......black
purple......blue
brown......black
And this sensor is from an 03 3400 right our of the rear exhaust manifold. Any idea's on how this would get hooked up?
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It really is amazing what you can find on this site sometimes...
-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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OK, so here is my interpritation of the diagram:
A = Heated Oxygen Sensor Signal (LOW)
B = Heated Oxygen Sensor Signal (HIGH)
C = Ground
D = Ignition for Heater Element
So C & D are no brainers. The problem is with A & B. Can one be hooked to the existing single-wire and the other to ground? Or do both wires provide a signal?
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-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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thats for a Bosch, and my stock O2 is a Denso.
also that wiring diagram says that depending wether the sensor is a type A B C or D the signal wire color could be blue, black, purple, or white. and sure enough my stock sensor uses 3 out of 4 of those colors.
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Your signal wire will be purple. So go from there...
Oh, and I could care less what that's for... The point I was trying to make was there is a signal, a ground and 2 wires for the heater. Since you said C & D were no-brainers, that leaves the signal and a ground. Your purple wire is the signal, therefore the remaining wire needs to be hooked to ground. Am I saying this is 100%? No, but I think its the closest you are going to get.-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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yes thats right - since the 1 wire sensor uses the exhaust and engine as the ground/signal low and many ecms pull their signal low wire from the engine ground..
when i wired mine up I pulled the tan signal low wire fromt he ecm to the sensor - eliminating the engine ground from the equation
mine uses a different connector though - that connector looks like the one on my wideband O2
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well, I hooked this mod up last night, but I did it a bit different than mentioned above. I used this conversion used for an F-body: http://home.comcast.net/~fastbird/Tr...Conversion.htm
he hooked up the power, ground & high-signal, but left the low-signal unhooked. it ran normal in open loop, but once it entered closed loop it started chugging pretty bad. Ill hook that second wire to ground tonight and see if it makes any difference.
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