That looks great! Also very nice to have all the part numbers referenced so well.
I am sure that some type of limited production for our solder challenged users would be a nice idea if anyone were interested.
You may also want to include some notes for proper splicing technique on engine bay wiring, as moisture is a BIG culprit here. I am sure this differs greatly depending on preference, etc..
I have found the use of heat shrink tube alone to be inadequate for engine bay harness splicing, as "any" air gap can result in significant oxidation. A gapless seal is of particular importance where any splices to power (positive or ground) are made.
To address this issue, I use a product called "liquid electrical tape". Just enough to cover any exposed wire and the soldered splice entirely, followed promptly by a short section of heat shrink tube. This technique results in a gapless bond between the soldered connection and the shrink tube.
If you do not have any "liquid electrical tape" lying around, you can use gasket sealant, as long as it does not contain an acetic cure component. (The presence of acetic curing is obvious from its distinctive "vinegar" odor).
Permatex Blue and Ultra Copper would both be acceptable substitutes.
I am sure that some type of limited production for our solder challenged users would be a nice idea if anyone were interested.
You may also want to include some notes for proper splicing technique on engine bay wiring, as moisture is a BIG culprit here. I am sure this differs greatly depending on preference, etc..
I have found the use of heat shrink tube alone to be inadequate for engine bay harness splicing, as "any" air gap can result in significant oxidation. A gapless seal is of particular importance where any splices to power (positive or ground) are made.
To address this issue, I use a product called "liquid electrical tape". Just enough to cover any exposed wire and the soldered splice entirely, followed promptly by a short section of heat shrink tube. This technique results in a gapless bond between the soldered connection and the shrink tube.
If you do not have any "liquid electrical tape" lying around, you can use gasket sealant, as long as it does not contain an acetic cure component. (The presence of acetic curing is obvious from its distinctive "vinegar" odor).
Permatex Blue and Ultra Copper would both be acceptable substitutes.
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