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  • #16
    Damnit. I don't have the resources to tune it at this point. And I know very little about tuning these things. I plan on just getting it running, and then seeign how it runs and idles, then worrying about tuning it.

    So increasing the fuel pressure you don't think will be enough? What more would I need to tune, like ignition timing and such?

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    • #17
      You need to adjust the fuel based on the powerband, and what the computer needs essentially. An increase across the whole rpm range isn't the solution. Increased fuel pressure will help with the amount of fuel you will need most likely but its not going to make the car run like it should.
      Ben
      60DegreeV6.com
      WOT-Tech.com

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      • #18
        Oh ok I understand now. Also since this intake is going to be EXTREMELY high end biased, tuning will be needed. Maybe at next year's 60*v6 meet maybe...by that time I should haev the heads as well...then we could just tune it all at once. God I dunno, maybe I'll just get it close and drive it around like that, worry about tuning next year. If I up the FP a bit, it will work well enough. Sure tuning will help a lot, but I'm sure I can drive it and get on it a little bit. And if I do up the FP, and get it to where my high rpms the air/fuel is dead on, then it will be stumbly and rich at lower rpms. But I think i can deal with this for a little while at least...

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        • #19
          Good luck is all I can say.

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          • #20
            Well, you may end up with a car that wont idle and likes to stall. The computer will always be trying to compensate, but when it does this on our computers, it throws the rest of the fueling off. If its reading too rich down low, its gonna cut fuel. Now, start moving and accelerating at a level you will need to for an engine at high elevation built to make max power at high rpms. Its going to need a lot more fuel that its programmed for, and the computer was already cutting fuel a large amount. This means you now have less fuel than needed programmed in at the same time the engine needs more, and now the computer is also telling it to cut fuel. It will catch up in about 3-5 seconds...wait for it....and....now it knows what to do. Now you decel and have to stop. Repeat.

            I think tuning should be your first concern, though having the car done first is the fastest and cheapest way to go about it. Well, the cheapest way is to learn how to tune it yourself, but it takes time to figure it out and its not a fast process if your car isn't very close to stock. Not impossible, just much more time consuming:P
            Ben
            60DegreeV6.com
            WOT-Tech.com

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            • #21
              Well my car alreay can't idle for a shit and likes to stall, so no problem there.

              As for the rest, I was unaware that it takes it 3-5sec to get the readings from the O2 sensor/map snesor and adjust fuel curves, I thought ti was pretty much instant. Damn that screws things up bigtime.

              I don't exactly have the way or urge to learn to tune right now, I don't want to go there yet. But from the sounds of it, it will be a must, especially when i get the heads/cams done. Cause by then I think I'll be above 400hp.

              Even without tuning, it will be enought o get the car running, and semi drivable, just can't rev past 4k or step on it at all. This shouldn't hurt the motor, and it will get me a place to start.

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              • #22
                Just a quick question in here to...I have a beretta with a 3400 swap..runs great, but stalls sometimes when I stop at a stop sign, but not when I stop, when I go to accelerate...do you know what it could be...I have an AFPR and that is set at like 46 pounds at WOT...Marc
                Marc

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                • #23
                  Dunno, but make another topic for it and you'll get more answers.

                  Why do you have a AFPR? Your stocker should be good to just shy of 300hp....

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