Eliminating/bypassing Passlock

[Kardain]

While MS is well documented, there's still the problem with emissions... non-working OBD-2 port = automatic fail, and the Passlock problem doesn't go away either.

If GM offered the bigger engine in a similar model year vehicle, with the same transmission, it could be that his replacement PCM would be "plug and play" other than having to relearn a code

Nope. Biggest displacement engine was the 2.4 LD9, mated to a 4t60 trans.

So I will have to find another project for that nice engine (maybe my garden tractor ???

Now that would be fun

[Kardain]

got a response on another forum from a tech:

Here is what I show to hook up the passlock, they might be called a little different names but im sure they are the same.
All grand am stuff, ending is the circuit # (XXXX)
C1 plug
A8-Ignition 0 voltage, ppl, to 10a fuse hot in acc, on or start. goes to pin b9 left IP fuse block grand am (1600)
B8-battery pos voltage, brn , to 10a fuse hot in run, goes to rt ip fuse block grand am(341)

C2 plug
A6-security sensor low, blk, (passlock gnd) pin b of passlock cylinder(1835)
B6-security systen sensor signal, yel, (passlock signal) pin b of passlock cylinder(1836)
B9-ignition 3 voltage, pink, to 10a fuse hot in on or start, goes to underhood fuse block, C4plug, C3pin(439)

C3 plug
A10-Ground, blk/wht, rounded at the left side of the dash, ground # G202 (151)
A12-Battery positive voltage, org, 10a fuse hot all times, rt ip fuse block grand am(340)
B1-battery fuse voltage, org, 10a fuse hot all times left Ip fuse block ga(1540)
B2-class 2 serial, ppl, to computer data lines. (attach it any where in the data system)(1807)
B4-security system sensor supply voltage, wht, (passlock b+) to pin c of passlock cylinder(1459)

You may need to hook up pin b12 of c2, lt green, its key in ig sw signal. I dont know exactly where it goes, all it says is to warning system circuit (80). I think its intergrated into the ignition switch on the J's if I can remember right.

So, I'll be trying that when I get done w/ the underhood wiring and whatnot and see how it goes.

[OldSkoolGP]

It's really easy to beat Passlock. Get a 98 PCM, and all you do is splice pin 55 and pin 17 together. Done. It's worked on my car for 3 years, no problems whatsoever.

[Kardain]

See, I already have most of the harness pinned out for the 99 PCM. By switching PCMs to a 98, I'd have to not only get that flashed, but purchase a new harness since the 98 PCM uses wires that the 99+ harness does not and redo the entire harness extension so it will reach the PCM location.

Example: C1-70 on the 98 PCM = Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal
C1-70 on the 99 PCM/Harness = Not used.

I refuse to do resolder all those wires again, so as much as people keep plugging the 98 PCM, its not a viable option.

edit:

Plus this holds true for any of my projects:

"find something simple and complicate it"

[keitholivier]

Mr Kardain

My 3 PCM connector kits arrived in the mail a few days ago. With my connectors, you could open the shell of the connector and withdraw any pin and relocate it to any other location without cutting a single wire. How is it that you would have to do re-soldering ?

Keith

[Kardain]

PCM location on my car is here:



behind the front fender

I'm using factory connectors and IDK if mine are different, but I had to lengthen the harness 6 feet to get to that spot. the pins wouldn't budge from 'em.

[keitholivier]

There are 3 pieces involved in the connector, not counting the pins.

To release the pins (which "snap" in place) yo need a small screwdriver to release the color coded individually keyed cover at fhe pine end of the connector. It has a little snap at each end of the long axis, on the narrow sides. When you get that off, you have the main pin carrier which carries the 32 pins. By lifting the tabs at each pin location, you can then withdraw each pin one at a time. They go out backwards through the connector shell, which also snaps together. You may need to unbundle the wire right at the connector to get the wires seperated sufficiently. I get the impression that all of the Delphi connectors have the same system, they may just integrate more than 1 connector in the same outer shell (when the PCM's went from 3 connectors to 2).

Can't hurt to look...

Keith

[Kardain]

I had a spare 80 pin connector (99+) and it does do the same as you described... I'm not really looking forward to spending 10-12 hours repinning the connectors, so I'll make this plan D

[SHOoff]

Kardain - I think you should get with HPTuners and see if they know of a way to get the PCM to operate without the BCM being present. I'm pretty sure there IS a way to do this. Also, since Fiero owners swap everything into their cars, they're a good resource, I'd ask them.

Reason I say there's gotta be a way to get it to operate without the BCM is because when I was looking at a reprogrammed PCM for my GTP, I found this listed in the description on ZZPerfomance.com.

"# Fiero PCMs have all codes deleted for use in the Fiero, 1.0 features, security disabled, ABS disabled, etc (use the year of your engine on the drop down and all 9's for a vin)
# Sand rail PCMs have all transmission settings disabled, all codes deleted that need to be, security & ABS disabled (use the year of your engine on the drop down and all 9's for a vin)"

That's options you can pick on their site, but perhaps some of the Fiero guys know what ZZP does to those PCM's in order to make that happen.

[Kardain]

Good find SHO

Tried Plan A - Standard theft relearn, no go, but at least I know the engine will fire up (kinda)

Either hit up ZZP or HPTuners next I guess

[SHOoff]

Well.... you're defnately gonna want something like HPTuners anyways to get yourself a tune. ZZP doesnt list that they do PCM's for the the Grand Am and i'm not too sure if they'll actually tell you how they do it. Intense Racing does PCM's for the Grand Am, but they dont list anything about being able to remove auto. trans, or theft. (but i'm sure you could email them and ask them) The charge for the PCM reflash is 100 for their basic reflash, and then more depending on what options you get.

Actually it woudlnt suprise me if they're just putting in all 9's for a VIN number. That's how our scanner at work does things. If a package comes by and it doesn't scan a label it'll either show all 0's or all 9's. So it wouldnt really suprise me if all 9's was what the computer registers if it gets no reading.

[Kardain]

yeah, I noticed that with ZZP. I did manage to find a site that may be able to:

http://www.gmtuners.com

Got this back by e-mail

unfortunately I am having the same problem with disabling the VTD (vehicle theft deterrent) for these applications as well. Therefore I don't think I can be of much help outside of trying something else. If you could give me the year/make/model (or VIN number) of the vehicle the computer you are using came out of, I could do some more research into what could be done to get this VTD system disabled (or bypassed) for you.

So I'm waiting on that...

Also noticed this thread on HPT:

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12399&highlight=vats

I know a guy locally that has HPT, all it'll cost me is a case of beer to check it out. If it works, it works... if it doesn't, oh well, and I'll go Joe's route of wiring in the BCM (15 wires = alot better than an entire engine harness)

[SHOoff]

Heh... I think i've seen a link to that before, maybe from JBO or something. Heh. It would definately be worth a shot.