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Alright, since I'm now in an apartment I've got a lot less room for spare car parts and I need to get rid of some stuff. Some of this is new, some has been for sale before and not sold, so if this stuff doesn't sell it's either going to the scrap metal yard for cash or going in the trash. In other words, make me some offers! :thumbs:
First up I have a set of valve covers and an UIM. The rear valve cover is missing the grommets and bolts, and I started sanding it with the intent of polishing it but never finished. The other two are painted with an anodized finish metallic paint. The UIM has the EGR port inside filled with JB weld so you'll need to either remove your EGR or have done it already. Also it is not ported, it is stock inside. I'll sell 'em together or separate if the price is right.
I still have a set of low miles red Taylor Spiro-pro spark plug wires. Nothing wrong with them and they always worked perfect for me. Only reason I switched to MSD before was I wanted them to match the rest of my ignition components. People have told me they would buy these like three times and never sent money, so if you want these send me $ or they are going in the trash.
Last but not least, my set of crane gold race roller rockers. 1.6 ratio all aluminum roller fulcrum and roller tip. Four are modified to clear the LIM on the 3400 engine since they were designed for the old inline valve head. Selling them with the adjustment nuts and that's it. I'm not gonna lie... I thought the bearings on these were going bad at one point 'cause I saw some crap in the oil around them. Turns out it was probably just stuff in the oil from my cam destroying my oil pump drive gear. The bearings always did seem like they were still tight and smooth. If it was me I'd wash them out thoroughly in a pail of mineral spirits, dry with compressed air, and dunk them in oil to re-lube them. Then they should be good. You'll need some other parts to use them. Guide plates, heat treated pushrods, and metric to standard conversion studs. ARP makes the studs (available from summit racing, jegs, etc) and you need either 8mm or 10mm depending on the year of your heads.
I also have a set of low miles (under 40k iirc) 3400 cylinder heads. All stock and assembled with the valves, springs, etc. I didn't pull them out of the boxes and bags they are stored in to takes pics 'cause well... we all know what they look like.
I may have some more stuff that I'll post up later on, but that's it for now.
First up I have a set of valve covers and an UIM. The rear valve cover is missing the grommets and bolts, and I started sanding it with the intent of polishing it but never finished. The other two are painted with an anodized finish metallic paint. The UIM has the EGR port inside filled with JB weld so you'll need to either remove your EGR or have done it already. Also it is not ported, it is stock inside. I'll sell 'em together or separate if the price is right.
I still have a set of low miles red Taylor Spiro-pro spark plug wires. Nothing wrong with them and they always worked perfect for me. Only reason I switched to MSD before was I wanted them to match the rest of my ignition components. People have told me they would buy these like three times and never sent money, so if you want these send me $ or they are going in the trash.
Last but not least, my set of crane gold race roller rockers. 1.6 ratio all aluminum roller fulcrum and roller tip. Four are modified to clear the LIM on the 3400 engine since they were designed for the old inline valve head. Selling them with the adjustment nuts and that's it. I'm not gonna lie... I thought the bearings on these were going bad at one point 'cause I saw some crap in the oil around them. Turns out it was probably just stuff in the oil from my cam destroying my oil pump drive gear. The bearings always did seem like they were still tight and smooth. If it was me I'd wash them out thoroughly in a pail of mineral spirits, dry with compressed air, and dunk them in oil to re-lube them. Then they should be good. You'll need some other parts to use them. Guide plates, heat treated pushrods, and metric to standard conversion studs. ARP makes the studs (available from summit racing, jegs, etc) and you need either 8mm or 10mm depending on the year of your heads.
I also have a set of low miles (under 40k iirc) 3400 cylinder heads. All stock and assembled with the valves, springs, etc. I didn't pull them out of the boxes and bags they are stored in to takes pics 'cause well... we all know what they look like.
I may have some more stuff that I'll post up later on, but that's it for now.
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