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  • Wanted Remote push/pull battery switch

    let me know if your selling one like this
    Attached Files
    '94 Cavalier Z24 3400 Turbo 5 spd

  • #2
    scott, how much is that one from summit? thinking about relocating my battery for weight distribution purposes.... plus if i go turbo later on i don't have to worry :P

    Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
    Cammed 3500 --> ???
    1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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    • #3
      Originally posted by RedBird View Post
      scott, how much is that one from summit? thinking about relocating my battery for weight distribution purposes.... plus if i go turbo later on i don't have to worry :P
      $80 + ship from summit heres the link

      Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Remote Battery Disconnect Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Battery Disconnect Switches at Summit Racing.


      battery relocation gets expensive to be NHRA legal. sealed battery box, kill switch, all the wiring...
      '94 Cavalier Z24 3400 Turbo 5 spd

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      • #4
        The only thing I don't like about those switches is if you are in the city and someone wants to be a moron and you have it hooked up right, they can kill your car right there and take off running before you even get out. I would still run the alarm power right off the battery (fused of course) just in case.
        -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
        91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
        92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
        94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
        Originally posted by Jay Leno
        Tires are cheap clutches...

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        • #5
          the best solution to the problem is right here:

          But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
          This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
          that's right off an FAQ on the NHRA website. Super good idea.

          Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
          Cammed 3500 --> ???
          1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

          Comment


          • #6
            That is pretty slick... And now I have a reason to keep one of the tail lights off of the 91 when I part it, lol.
            -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
            91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
            92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
            94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
            Originally posted by Jay Leno
            Tires are cheap clutches...

            Comment


            • #7
              Actually, I would just take the tail light out, screw the handle in through the hole where the tail light passes through the body or make hole for that. No need to look fancy with an extra tail light with a switch on it... Just remove the tail light, wrap it in a towel and put it in a box or something in the trunk, screw on your handle switch rod thingy-ma-bobber and go. If you have to make an extra hole for it, find a rubber plug that will fit the hole well so you can seal it back up before putting your tail light back in.
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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              • #8
                <-- Adds to list for Mustang...
                -Brad-
                89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                sigpic
                Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
                  Actually, I would just take the tail light out, screw the handle in through the hole where the tail light passes through the body or make hole for that. No need to look fancy with an extra tail light with a switch on it... Just remove the tail light, wrap it in a towel and put it in a box or something in the trunk, screw on your handle switch rod thingy-ma-bobber and go. If you have to make an extra hole for it, find a rubber plug that will fit the hole well so you can seal it back up before putting your tail light back in.
                  ^^^ And that is why so many people think j- and l-body owners are all super-ghetto. No, you don't NEED to look fancy with a tail light, BUT.... would you rather look like you WANT your car to look nice, or just like you aren't trying at all? it's like the pic of the ph2 Z24 with 28" slicks up front, with the fenders just sawed away to fit them. Ghetto

                  Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
                  Cammed 3500 --> ???
                  1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    ok if you guys could start another topic for just discussion that would be great...
                    '94 Cavalier Z24 3400 Turbo 5 spd

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                    • #11
                      JEGS # 555-10372 is a 125A push/pull for 65 bucks....

                      Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
                      Cammed 3500 --> ???
                      1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

                      Comment

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