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Built 3400 Short Block (for boost) $1,000 + Shippi

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  • For Sale : Built 3400 Short Block (for boost) $1,000 + Shippi

    I have a built 3400 for sale.

    Includes: The entire bottom end (without heads, unless you want them), ARP Head Studs. Ross forged pistons (specs on my site). Gas nitrated rings (from Ross). Eagle H-beam rods for a SBC small journal modified for the 3400. .927 chromoly pins & spirolox retainers. Clevite-77 bearings for the mains and rods. Durabond cam bearings. More details than I really intended to post here

    The block (99 3400):
    -Casting Flash removed and polished (by me)
    -Screens epoxied in the lifter valley (by me)
    -Radius job the main bearing bulkheads (by me)
    -Bored .020 over using torque plate (circle track engine shop called "WRP")
    -Deck surfaced (by previously mentioned shop)
    -Entire rotating assembly balanced (by previously mentioned shop)

    For Pics of the entire teardown and build, see:

    Welcome to our website! Discover a range of top-quality products and services tailored to meet your needs. Browse through our pages to see how we can add value to your lifestyle. Join us in a seamless shopping experience that combines convenience, affordability, and speed. Explore more with us!


    So, in 2006, I ran a 13.4@108 (in a FWD) and ran out of fuel on the track when the 65# injectors starved the pump. (venturi pump issue in the grand am pump assembly I learned a good lesson on when replacing with a Walbro)

    Anyways, as you can imagine, bad detonation. Rod bearings lost their crush, then failure. Crank was even bent .006. So, the crank was magnafluxed, bent to spec, magnafluxed again (no cracks). It was turned, and I ordered all new bearings. Same (Durabond) Cam bearings, .25mm over rod and main Clevite-77's. Now, I am just cleaning and building for the sale.

    So what am I asking for? "At Least" $1,000 + shipping. You can also do local pickup. And if close enough to 26101, I might even deliver (you pay for the fuel).

    Here are a few recent pics of the re-assembly:












    So, as it sits, it is very easy to add a different Cam if desired (buyer supplied), or make changes as needed. Given the current status displayed above, what you get would look the same as below. This will also include 2 spare Eagle H-Beam rods. The following is a pic of the original rebuild, but reflects what is for sale for the 1k:




    This includes all the perfectly functioning sensors:

    -Oil Level sensor
    -Both crank position sensors
    -Camshaft position sensor
    -Knock sensor

    Some things in the pictures that may have been overlooked:

    -Fast Forward underdrive pulley
    -1/2" NPT bung welded to the oil pan with -8AN fitting

    And the ARP nuts and washers to go with the head studs are also included.

    I have all kinds of other goodies too. Pretty much everything in the "Phase 3" section of my gallery (URL Above).
    Last edited by tejohnson; 06-07-2008, 06:50 PM.
    Regards,

    Todd E. Johnson

  • #2
    Very nice work with those screens, looks real good.
    95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
    94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Barry View Post
      Very nice work with those screens, looks real good.
      Thanks. You know you want to buy it, don't ya?
      Regards,

      Todd E. Johnson

      Comment


      • #4
        If I had the time and money Id be all over this as the bottom end of my 3400 is still stock but seeing how things are lately I cant even afford the gas that I use now..plus I like my 13.5 and getting better........on a stock block..lol. Im kidding but this is a good deal for anyone looking to boost their car. Doing all this yourself would cost well over whats being asked for here

        If you were willing to part with the pistons/rods from the block I could be tempted for those but that would destroy this whole thread

        Good luck on with the sale
        1994 Chevy Corsica. Parted out. Just a rotting shell now
        Best 1/4mile ET - 12.9
        Best 1/4mile MPH - 111
        1997 Ford Ranger Splash
        Daily Driver

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by loner666 View Post
          If you were willing to part with the pistons/rods from the block I could be tempted for those but that would destroy this whole thread
          So if I sold you he pistons and rods (Say for $500), what would you do with them? How much do you think it would take to have the block bored and the rotating assembly balanced? How much would the gaskets cost you? See where I am going with this?
          Regards,

          Todd E. Johnson

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by tejohnson View Post
            So if I sold you he pistons and rods (Say for $500), what would you do with them? How much do you think it would take to have the block bored and the rotating assembly balanced? How much would the gaskets cost you? See where I am going with this?
            Exactly. I was just running that through my head as I was reading this. Unfortunately I too would only be interested in the rotating assy seeing the 3400 block is not easy to bolt into an fbody lol. I have a machine shop so the reast could be taken care of, but oh well - free bump!

            It is a good deal as it sits.

            EDIT:

            13.4 in a FWD would be killer in my bird
            Links:
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            Comment


            • #7
              Good point. lol. Not thinking straight today. To many fumes the last couple days working on the car
              1994 Chevy Corsica. Parted out. Just a rotting shell now
              Best 1/4mile ET - 12.9
              Best 1/4mile MPH - 111
              1997 Ford Ranger Splash
              Daily Driver

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                Exactly. I was just running that through my head as I was reading this. Unfortunately I too would only be interested in the rotating assy seeing the 3400 block is not easy to bolt into an fbody lol. I have a machine shop so the reast could be taken care of, but oh well - free bump!

                It is a good deal as it sits.

                EDIT:

                13.4 in a FWD would be killer in my bird
                You know you wanna do a 3400 conversion. With the money you save from this deal on the internals, you can afford all the other hard work

                I would love to see what this engine could do in a RWD and though something other than a 45e.
                Regards,

                Todd E. Johnson

                Comment


                • #9
                  I don't know but I wouldn't want a crank that has been damaged like that. In a stock rebuild in a stock car, sure its probably fine but for a high performance package which is what this could be, in my opinion its probably not a good idea to push it. I have a brand new crank if you want it for a 3.1 981 casting. Brand new!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Shaun41178 View Post
                    I don't know but I wouldn't want a crank that has been damaged like that. In a stock rebuild in a stock car, sure its probably fine but for a high performance package which is what this could be, in my opinion its probably not a good idea to push it. I have a brand new crank if you want it for a 3.1 981 casting. Brand new!
                    Not to debate this, however, I did address this with the shop that performed the machine work, and there was no concern at all given the outcome. Perhaps if you would like to debate such a thing, then feel free to create another thread about it.

                    It feels like you are attempting to post a "buyer beware" in this thread, which is needless to say, a bit rude. Are you attempting to sell a 3.1 crank?
                    Regards,

                    Todd E. Johnson

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tejohnson View Post
                      Not to debate this, however, I did address this with the shop that performed the machine work, and there was no concern at all given the outcome. Perhaps if you would like to debate such a thing, then feel free to create another thread about it.

                      It feels like you are attempting to post a "buyer beware" in this thread, which is needless to say, a bit rude. Are you attempting to sell a 3.1 crank?
                      wow i didnt feel he was being mean untill i read your response, your right..... that is kinda rude. i wish i was able to buy it...but im almost done with my rebuild.. so... yea, gonna have to pass...
                      Dont ever lift,unless its upside down or on fire.

                      i think this time im going to have the flames painted on this car.im getting tired of my cars catching fire.maybe i need to start flipping them or lifting.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        .006 isnt much anyway. How thick is a human hair?
                        95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
                        94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          .002

                          And as stated in the first post, it was bent back to spec, checking for cracks both times. Then journals were turned, hence the different main and rod bearing sizes.

                          Being concerned when I was first told it was bent, I was ready to buy a new crank and get the entire assembly balanced again. However, I was told there was no need. (they had to talk me out of it) So, when posting this "for sale" thread, I opted for full disclosure. There are even pics of the crank, rods, and all bearings after spinning the #5 at Pontiac Nationals. It is in my "Pontiac Nationals 2006" part of my gallery.
                          Last edited by tejohnson; 06-10-2008, 11:52 PM.
                          Regards,

                          Todd E. Johnson

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            finished honed

                            I was wondering if that block is finished honed to the pistons

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                            • #15
                              It was bored to 3.642" with a torque plate and ARP studs that will come with the block. I know this is a bit anal, but I even kept the ARP studs and nuts in the same order. It was also honed with the torque plate. On this latest tear down, I used a bottle brush hone for the finish, which everything looked just fine.

                              If specs are wanted, I listed them on my site. See:

                              Welcome to our website! Discover a range of top-quality products and services tailored to meet your needs. Browse through our pages to see how we can add value to your lifestyle. Join us in a seamless shopping experience that combines convenience, affordability, and speed. Explore more with us!


                              I also have the piston job card (on the outside of the box from Ross) in my gallery. I never really had anything to hide.
                              Regards,

                              Todd E. Johnson

                              Comment

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