Turbo for a 3.4 DOHC

[Synestral]

I want to make a reliable streetable car that has plenty of go if I push on the pedal. Working on a complete rebuild of the engine, so whatever needs to be done to prep the engine will be done. I'd like to keep all the climate contols cause I really hate the heat and summers here get well above 100 F with lots of humidity for a few months.

As far as powerband...I understand this engine runs best from 3k up, so I will be installing a 3k stall converter. I noticed mention of a couple turbos that were the right size for this engine's displacement: T04E and GT35R. Would these give the highly sophisticated ass dyno pleasure without taking away from the reliability too much? I'd like to be able to drive this car at least 100k miles when I get it done.

[dohcfiend]

RE: Turbo for a 3.4 DOHC

3 part answer. 1st part streetability vs power it just depends on how much boost you run. next point i don't think it will be easy esp if you have a 91-93 or a 96-97 b/c it is setup for a pressure sensor that reads vacuum, not boost. best bet would be go 94-95 which is maf and the computer system is alot more tolerant of boost. lastly, whenever you increase cylinder pressure you increase wear 100k is ambitious but if you keep that boost controller in check you might be ok.

but talk to a turbo guy for more experience based answers than mine. there are several on here to draw from but as far as i know only 2 dohc turbo guys. search the boost section of the site to find them and good luck.

[Synestral]

I always start out extremely ambitions and shape my plans according to what I find out can actually be done as I'm researching. Thanks for the answer

[Synestral]

Does anybody know what kind of reliability I could expect with a turbo on one of these engines? I'd like to have it last a while after I'm done working on it.

At best, I'm really trying to build a daily driver with some go, or at worst, I'd at least like to be able to drive to autocross events, compete, and still be able to drive home.

[timg]

I have driven 20k miles on a stock 144k mile (currently) engine. The turbo has pushed up to 12 psi and it is driven hard every time I take it out. It's been about 2 years now. My best suggestion- spend the $$ and do it right the first time. GT35R is the #1, best turbo for a 3.4. The 60-1 and T04E 60 trim will also work very well (both with T4 exhaust housings). For autocross, I would definitely choose the GT35R. It will spool faster than a T3T4 hybrid while giving more top end than a 60-1. If you want 100k miles, keep the boost down at 7 psi on a stock motor or do some internal work to it and run 10-15 psi.

Tim

[Synestral]

Definitely planning on getting internal work done. Gotta do my research and set up a budget so I know how much I need to do it right the first time instead of screwing it up and spending more to fix it after it breaks.

Mods I'm currently planning for the bottom end: getting the crank knife edged and balanced, getting the entire rotating assembly balanced, getting forged pistons to go with the forged rods.

And thanks very much for the info about the manifold and which turbo would be best for what I'm trying to do That's the main reason I registered at this site and post here is cause everybody here is so helpful.

[LQ1]

I am finishing up my turbo project right now, and will be putting together a kit to sell to those who want to turbo their auto 3.4L. www.angelfire.com/extreme5/turbo_cutlass is the web site. Youll end up spending a decent amount of money on the project. I am close to $3K in, with a couple hundred left to spend. That does not include any internal which i was hoping to do. I was planning on new rings/bearings, balance, crosshatch, cleaning, crank work. That was probably gonna run an extra $500 that i dont have so ill wait on that for now.

[brian89gp]

My best suggestion- spend the $$ and do it right the first time. GT35R is the #1, best turbo for a 3.4.
Tim

Words of wisdom.... I did the exact opposite and I think that after re-doing it a couple times it ended up costing about the same not to mention the extra time invested.

[timg]

I've gone the cheap route on my Monte and partially on my S2000. Whatever you cheap out on, you will probably replace at a future point in time for much more $$. I'm in double what I started at on my Monte and it's still not right. If I did it right the first time, I could have had it fully complete for less than I'm into it right now. The S2000 was close, but I cheaped out and got a log manifold. Right now I'm in the process of replacing it with a tubular one for $$$...

Suggestions:
Buy a new turbo- a T4 can be had for around $600 and will last forever
Do engine management correctly the first time- figure out your goals and price range and I can help a bit with this.
Put the wastegate on BOTH cylinder banks.
If you run a MAF, put the BOV after the MAF.
Run 3" mandrel bent exhaust everywhere.

Tim

[timg]

Ways to save $$
DSM BOV, cheap and effective
Intercooler- use ebay or Honda-Tech.com
Turbo- search Honda-tech.com for specials- there are some awesome bargains out there
Engine management- FMU & check valve vs piggyback vs standalone vs self tuning a chip vs TGP code, etc
Injectors - used Ford Lightning/GTP/Mustang

Tim

[Synestral]

Been saving money for a bit now, got a decent parts list going, the only thing I'm having trouble with is finding a good engine management system. I'm not averse to self tuning, as long as the system has safeties built in and good instructions. I would actually like to get rid of the stock ECM all together, and run a non-computer controlled tranny. Other advice has been noted. Will follow up on it soon and add to my list.

[Guest]

Haltech.

[timg]

Haltech.

Agreed.

For a 91-93 this would be the easiest option especially if you replace the transmission with a 4T60 or 284/282.

Tim

[Synestral]

Very complete engine management system in the e11v2. I definitely liked what I saw.