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  • not watercooling a watercooled turbo

    Contemplating this due to hosing issues. It wouldn't be entirely cut off from coolant but like so: from the lower intake, through the turbo, to the heater core, then return to the water pump.

  • #2
    what are you exactly trying to do, what engine and stuff. on my na 3.1 i just ran the line from the block to the turbo and then drilled a hole in the metal tube that goes around the engine.

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    • #3
      the good ole 3.4 DOHC motor, Toyota CT-26 turbo. I am trying to get rid of a couple hoses that are constantly in the way.

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      • #4
        AFAIK the water cooled turbos only rely on the engine coolant after shutdown. The water in the CHRA boils and dissipates heat from the turbo. If you practice proper cooldown procedures for turbocharged vehicles you should have no problems...

        1987 Checkmate Starflite-86mph on H2O
        1988 Fiero GT-3.4 DOHC swap underway
        1990 Miata-Beater
        1991 300ZX Slicktop-Twin Turbo fun
        1997 F355 Berlinetta-Dream come true
        1999 Swift 010c-Champ Car
        2000 Civic Si-Daily driver
        2000 F250 7.3L-Tow vehicle
        2005 YZF-R1-My escape

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        • #5
          Interesting, so it doesn't provide much cooling at all while running? I usually let it idle 1min or so anyway, just cause.

          The lack of space irritates me and having coolant hoses all over doesn't help. I was contemplating either not running any coolant at all to it or running it through the turbo to the heater core (maybe giving me heat sooner in the winter )

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          • #6
            Just make sure it goes UP hill exiting the turbo.

            NonDOHC, but mine is run from the block near the starter, to the turbo, then returns to a T in the heater Hose.

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            • #7
              A watercooled turbo is the way to go. The water cooling does little on shutdown. It helps prevent coked up bearings while running. Coked up bearings are the result of the engine oil operating at temps. higher than it should and mucking up the bearings ultimately leading to turbo failure. That's why oil changes were really important on the non-watercooled turbos, it still is important on the watercooled though. Letting the car idle alittle bit before shutdown can help, but for the most part when you are just cruising the turbo is barely spinning, and this goes for idling. When you shut the engine off the heat is removed anyway. The watercooling will help to prevent the oil from hitting critical temps. and breaking down inside the turbo.

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              • #8
                ^^^While the engine is running the oil pressure keeps the oil moving through the turbo so ther should be no problem with coking. When the engine stops is where the problem occurs. You have an extremely hot center section with oil just sitting there heat soaking. The water (coolant) extracts the heat from the turbo and aids in the prevention of oil coking. If you observe a proper cooldown idle for a turbo equipped vehicle, the problem with coking will be lessened with or without the coolant to dissipate heat, you just need to let it idle longer without the coolant...

                I'm not saying don't bypass the coolant lines to make life easier. If you can get coolant to the turbo by all means do it, if it presents a serious design change or requires the modification of other critical parts I would forget the coolant lines and be sure I let the vehicle idle a few mins after hard running.

                1987 Checkmate Starflite-86mph on H2O
                1988 Fiero GT-3.4 DOHC swap underway
                1990 Miata-Beater
                1991 300ZX Slicktop-Twin Turbo fun
                1997 F355 Berlinetta-Dream come true
                1999 Swift 010c-Champ Car
                2000 Civic Si-Daily driver
                2000 F250 7.3L-Tow vehicle
                2005 YZF-R1-My escape

                Comment

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