best turbo 4 a 95 3.4dohc in a mc

[TurboSedan]

there is NO ONE that has turbo'd a 95 MC besides Timg and in all honesty would be the only person that can point you in the right direction with what you want from a turbo setup. everyone else just has assumptions.

brian89gp has also turbocharged a DOHC, albeit in a '94 Grand Prix and not a '95 Monte Carlo. hardly much of a difference there though. i think he was using a small (too small?) CT26 though.

[TurboSedan]

TimG said that the T04e was a bit on the samll side.

I thought I remembered him saying that too.

i seem to remember the opposite...

Tim, the T04E not large enough :P?

That T04E is HUGE! It is definitely TOO big for people who want instant spool and a perfect autocross setup. I actually have considered swapping out to a GT35R though.

The GT30R is for my 2004 Honda S2000!

i've ridden in Tim's Monte several times now and it definately has some lag (not that it doesn't make up for it when it does spool though )

[imported_germ]

but the automatic tranny DOHC's are always slow from a stop and down low lol

and like i said, timg is the only 95 monte w/ dohc to be turbo'd

the difference between him and brian is that the 94's can be chipped because of being obd1 right? if so, the 95 MC's cannot due to obd1.5 pcm. thats why a lot of obd1.5 people dont turbo. there is a lot of hassle to make it work without a tuning session.

and yes, the T04e is a fairly large turbo.

i would recomend a turbo with a 57 trim, ~50-60 cold ar, 70-90 hot ar in a T3/T4 housing setup for a DOHC

those sizes above will keep you fairly streetable and probably wont "roast" the tires from the line, but you will feel a difference down low and the top end would be freaking insane.

but if you wanted a little bit more low end "umph" then i would suggest a turbo that is on the small side of the #'s posted above.

[imported_germ]

oh yea, dont forget the crappy low stall stock torque convertor. that thing sucks balls for low end power.

if you get a 3k stall TC, you wont have to worry to much about low end power, because it will be there and it should be insane with a 3k stall

[Anonymous]

I talk to Tim often, and last time I talked to him we talked about his low end. He said it is just about perfect off the line. I twill chirp the tires some, and his stall lands him at 3000-3500. Then it starts spooling at about 3500, and has full boost by 4. He said it is almost perfect off the line, but he'd like to go a little bit bigger on the turbo.

[LQ1]

I was considering a T3/T4 hybrid turbo for my motor, but i opted for the TO4E, and a smaller ar of .63 with the stage 3 wheel. Also, My car is a 1994, and i cannot get a chip for it because it is also a 1.5. Brian89gp had taken an older computer, TGP i think? and tuned that to help with the turbo setup.

After talking to tim also, i would not mind full boost coming around or shortly before 4Grand, because i assume that normal driving i will stay at or under 3Grand like i normally do, so i wont have to worry much about boost and not kill my mpg all that much. Now granted, that is if i can stay off the gas.

[timg]

60-1 was what turbonetics recommended for the 3.4. My own compressor calcs agreed. The 60 trim T04e is only slightly smaller, but was $250 cheaper so it is what I used. In the future, I would like to run a GT35R. It costs more but should dramatically outspool both of them and make more power than both.

Tuning issues. I have recently relocated my MAF sensor to after the BOV and right before the throttle body. That has cured 90% of my tuning issues. There are still a few issues around atmospheric pressure in my intake either due to tuning or my wategate/turbo setup. I am in the process of installing a piggyback that can control timing and MAF signal based on RPM and MAP. I'll post back with pics and info on how it works as soon as I get my car back together. Hopefully, it will take care of my remaining issues. The FMU setup works very well with the stock injectors for fueling up to 7-8 psi. I have run 10, but there was no performance increase so I backed off until I have the parts to determine why there was no increase (maxed injectors, knock, turbo, exhaust...)

Tim

[timg]

BTW:

94-95 DOHC are identical- ECU and everything else.

I can roast the tires off the line- depending on altitude they either roast immediately or right after the initial chirp then grip.

Turbonetics is overpriced.

WBO2's are awesome.

http://www.gmtuners.com has a 94-95 chip.

If you do build a kit, use a Tial wastegate, not a Turbonetics and make sure that it has flow from both banks of cylinders.

Originally, I thought there was too much lag and Brian was using a small turbo so I assumed mine was too large. Looking back, it's probably just right or maybe a bit too small. If I had to do it over again, I would gladly shell 2x the $$ for a GT series ball-bearing GT35R.

Tim

[Froggx]

timg, I was wondering just for personal reference if you happen to have a dyno chart lying around somewhere for your motor, I have a pretty big interest in looking at things like that if you happen to

[timg]

I have a dyno from before the turbo, but none since. I just did a bunch more work to it and should be going again soon. I need to get both the Monte and the S2000 on the dyno for some tuning now that I have engine management.

Tim

[brian89gp]

94-95 MAF is far far far easier to get boost working with the 91-93 MAP. I downgraded to a 91 ECM and wiring because at the time I didn't have the proper info on the 94 PCM, hindsight I would have stuck with MAF. I then transplanted most of the boost related code from the 89-90 TGP chip into the 91 3.4 chip and started tuning. By the time I knew about the 94 code I was putting the 5spd in, I tried the 94 chip with the Getrag but it did not work out well at all.

So, now I have a 91 3.4 chip programmed for boost, I know how to do a 94 chip for boost, and I have most the stuff ironed out for the 94 5spd problems. Too bad I lost all interest.

To the original subject, the T04E series is a good turbo. Not as big as a 60-1 but then again most people here are not going for all out track only performance. If you are willing to use a on-center exhaust housing I have seen freshly rebuilt T04E's for right around $350 quite often. The 60-1 is $500 minimum, and that is finding a good deal.

[TurboGTU]

Shouln't the Maff sensor..or tune run better if you put the Maff on the Turbo inlet and a IAT sensor on the Intake manafold or after the IC. The BOV shoud have a hose routed back to the turbo inlet or after the Maff to meter the air correctly. This is because I only go with how factory Maff/Vam turbo cars are setup//turbo ford/mazda/DSM/Volvo..ect. but if yours works as a blow though..then so be it. The maff cars don't need a map sensor input..but need timming pulled after a sertin amount of airflow to compinsate for boost.

The best bet is still to map out your engine VE/rpm and then plot a compressor map on it. But if you don't care for perfection...most 35lbs+ min turbos will work on your engine. Id sugest reading the book again for more info.

[nocutt]

Ultimately there is NO real 'best turbo' for the 3.4DOHC until you have considered where you need to be and how you want to get there...the best way is to pick three turbos within the same family and plot a map...however the comp maps can also be very deceiving, I see a lot of ppl assume once they see a map it is the absolute...far from right...the comp map differs with turb. maps...which is actually the power to the respective plant eg T04e '57' mated to a .48 xhaust A/R...having said that; autos will require a different compressor than a stick, however because the LQ motor wants to breath a 6Xmm+ turbo are the better choice coupled with a .6X not more than .7X A/R xhaust housing. The particular turbine wheel is subjective...the compromise will be response vs lag, stick vs auto etc...to that end the animal cannot be changed...turbocharging the motor for more midrange and top end would be a much better cause...

MAF revelation: I used a MAF from a Qu motor about 4yrs ago and noticed it would become saturated at ~33lb/min. As a blow thru or suck thru it didn't matter. I decided to use a MAF recalibrator from www.splitsec.com (ARC2) and was able to 'bend' or skew the maf signal some...because I wanted to run bigger injectors I decided to use an LT1 MAF sensor (bigger)...the point the MAF will take a lot till it gets pegged and if you have the ability to recurve the MAF either by ECM work or physically intercepting the signal then "one" can theoretically overcome that part of the problem...I say MAFs are easier to tune as long as you stay within the realm of the ceiling placed in the computer or you can no longer bend the MAF signal without loosing any granularity...