Turbocharger center section Cooling

[chevyman350]

I am in the middle of a 3.4 twin turbo project and I am looking for information on where people are taking coolant from the engine and returning it to the cooling system from the turbo center section?

AKA the coolant where is it coming from and going to in relation to the turbo?

Does anybody understand what I am asking?

Do I know what I am asking?

Thanks

P.S. This will be going into my 1992 s10 and the headers are almost complete.

[oil pan 4]

Try the back of the intake where the coolant passages are blocked off, that will get you pressurized coolant.
Return it to the inlet of the coolant pump for cold weather or on the water neck for warm weather.
What turbos are you useing, not all of them have coolant pasages?

[chevyman350]

i have 2 t3's one from an 87 merkur, and another from an 88 turbo coupe, 60ar compressors, and 48 ar turbine housings. both have coolant passages.
thanks.

I am using a 3.4 v6 from an 95 camaro that i picked up with everything (computer, harness,trans (t-5) and most of the accesories, for $100.00) There is a hole story behind the deal which is quite cool, but that is for a later time.

[RacerX11]

You can pull coolant feed from the drain plugs in the sides of the block. This will give you cooler temperatures, since the coolant hasn't gone through the heads yet. You would want to return the coolant to the inlet of the water pump.

Marty

[chevyman350]

How would you attach the drains to the pump inlet?
The inlet is the the one on the pump not the one next to the thermostat right?

Thanks again.

[brian89gp]

I've done it 2 ways.

First way: coolant from the drain plug in the the block, to the turbo, T it back into the bypass hose.
Second way: lock the bypass line open and run it through the turbo.

Other then extra hoses I havn't noticed much a difference. The second way gets a little warmer in the summer but not by much

Depending on how the heater core hosing is done i've heard of people running the heater core hose through it. You get plenty of heat in the summer rather quickly.

[oil pan 4]

I hooked it up to the back of the heads to even out the flow so the back cylinders can get some flow over them.
The turbos don't realy need cool coolant because there temp operating range is hoter than that of a normal engine.
To hook up the return so the turbo coolant goes through the raidator do it on the water neck.
The water neck/intake/thermostat aera is the hot coolant out part of the system.
The pump is the intake for the coolant in to the engine.
I said that I might hook the turbo discharge up the inlet of the pump incase I get sent to freaken north dakota or montana or some place that's super cold durning the winter.
My turbo set up won't have engine oil going throught them. The turbos won't be sending hot oil back to the engine. They will have there own oiling system, I have built part of the oiling system and have it on my car domain site.

[Galen]

You have left out the easiest alternative. Just leave the water lines off. That is what I have done on my Merkur...my "new" turbo didn't even come with cooling lines. The cooling lines were added to the turbo in an attempt by Ford to help warranty issues. It did not help. The IHI that came on the 88 TurboCoupe is from what I have read a superior design to a Garrett, but the A/R is even worse (quicker spool, but runs out of steam quicker) than the .48 units that you got off the Merkurs.

By the way, what are your realistic RWHP goals? The .48s should be good up to about 275 RWHP each...giving you a 550 RWHP potential.

Good Luck!

Galen

P.S. A really good group to learn the basics and beyond on turbocharging is www.turboford.org.

[chevyman350]

To start I am going for 7 psi to get the "tune" right. But there is another 3.4 v6 out there that is making 290 rwhp with a single turbo at 5 psi. http://www.force-fed-fabrications.com So at slightly less than max potential I think that 400-450 rwhp could be "safe". But that is for later getting it running is the most important part for now.

From what I understand take the water from the back of the heads of the block drains, and return it to the thermostat housing area. will this work? Am I right?

Thanks

[oil pan 4]

Duribility, is why I hook up the coolant lines.