Nitrous on a cavy?

[sharkey]

i would try to build a direct port kit. most are meant for v8's and come with 8 nozzles. if you use this, then you have 2 extra nozzles kicking around and may cause you to do stupid things with them (like add them just after the tb for a fogger). plus if you dont use them, you just have wasted the extra cash on them.

[Guest]

i would try to build a direct port kit. most are meant for v8's and come with 8 nozzles. if you use this, then you have 2 extra nozzles kicking around and may cause you to do stupid things with them (like add them just after the tb for a fogger). plus if you dont use them, you just have wasted the extra cash on them.

You can buy 6cyl systems.

[rustbird]

Dave, what do you think about The Raven's suggestions about getting a dry kit instead b/c of his explainations? Just wandering?

[malibu97ss]

My hand is up!

I started out with a 35 shot on my malibu, and then moved to a 55 after inspecting plugs, motor, etc for damage or signs of running lean. I ran probaly 12-15 bottles thru the motor with NO problems whatsoever, so have fun with it. I think that both the wet or dry kit would be fine as long as you don't want more power than that. If you do plan to go past a 60 shot, or so, I would recommend wet, because stock injectors will be pretty well maxed out at that point, and you will begin to run lean. Just start out small and make sure everything is working good before you increase your shot!

p.s. I have known a couople of people who have wrecked their cavvies and both walked away...

[Dave]

I ALWAYS suggest to go with a wet kit, it's always the safest way to go, yes, you may have some pooling problems, but not nearly as many problems with pooling as you would if you went with the dry kit, but yes, you can run a dry kit, I don't recomend it, I've always personally used wet kits, but I've seen dry kits work just fine.

The system I posted above is by far the safest, best kit to run, it will feed to each cylinder, but adjusting that kit will take LOTS of time as you will have to remove the plenum each time you want to change the jets.

--Dave.

[sharkey]

a wet kit takes a lot of finess to get it right, especialy a direct port kit. if you are asking about putting nitrous on your car, you are not ready for a wet kit like that.

as i said earlier, if you want a simple kit with a small shot, get the zex dry kit. its a simple install, and even though its not a wet kit, it still has a way of richening the engine up (through restricting vacuume to the fuel pressure regulator). easy to install and you can find them new for under $500 on e-bay, used for under $350.

[Guest]

I ALWAYS suggest to go with a wet kit, it's always the safest way to go, yes, you may have some pooling problems, but not nearly as many problems with pooling as you would if you went with the dry kit, but yes, you can run a dry kit, I don't recomend it, I've always personally used wet kits, but I've seen dry kits work just fine.

The system I posted above is by far the safest, best kit to run, it will feed to each cylinder, but adjusting that kit will take LOTS of time as you will have to remove the plenum each time you want to change the jets.

--Dave.

I used to prfess the same Wet kit, wet kit, wet kit, but like I said it depends very much on the engine design, well moreso the intake design.

The name "dry kit" is somewhat misleading, as there is an increase in fuel pressure causing an added amount of fuel to get injected, if you go by malibu97ss's suggestion,s, which I recommend, as well, start small and work your way up, checking the plugs after each pass, until you get a consistant plug reading, then the system will be in tune, although weather changes can effect the nitrous tune, just like the rest of the engine systems.

I do agree that a wet system will general be safest, but only with a multi nozzle system, where the fuel is injected as close to the valve as possible, when dealing with Multiport intakes similar to the genII 660. I also agree that anythging above about 50 HP shot (I know you suggest 60), should be taken to the next level of system on these engines. but only due to the intake design.
If we were dealing with TBI, then a 100, 200, 300, 400+ shot wet with a single nozzle or plate system (Imagine a 400 shot single nozzle? ) would be no problem, the intake design would be able to support wet flow.

[Dave]

Raven, you've made some really good points. at a 50 or less kit, I feel that dry would be safe, but I don't like to "suggest" things that could potentially hurt an engine - and we all know people get Jet happy, and think that a 50 jet = 50 HP (and we all know that's not how it works)

Go with the manufacturer's suggestions when installing ANY kit, and start low like those guys have said.

now to clairify the difference between "wet" and "dry" for those reading this topic and don't know...

a "wet" Nitrous Kit will introduce fuel in the same nozzle or a nozzle close to the nitrous feed, this added fuel will be sepperate of what the engine will be adding VIA the fuel injectors or other means of adding fuel.

A "dry" kit will allow the nitrous to flow independantly of added fuel, and will typically run a small feed to the pressure regulator to boost the fuel rail pressure - at the same time, the 02 sensor will detect the added o2 into the mixture and fatten up the mixture VIA the injectors - this means - DO NOT RUN THE NITROUS ON AN ENGINE THAT HAS NOT BEEN PROPERLY WARMED UP as the O2 will not be supplying a reading to the computer yet.

I like the wet kits, because I've had O2 sensors fail way too many times (old cars, old parts, ya know the usual)

I would suggest before adding **ANY** nitrous kit put in new plugs, wires, and O2 sensor, I don't care if your O1 sensor is a year old, change it, as you don't want to chance a bad/slow sensor in there for either a wet or dry kit.

--Dave.

[rustbird]

Ok, i will be probably going with a dry kit as of now, considering the valid points from raven and other points from dave, dry sounds the best for my particular vehicle. All I have to do is change the O2 sensor, go to copper plugs, and maybe a few other minor changes, and I am going to get myself a Dry kit off Ebay by the friday after next.

Thanx for all your help and please, debate more b/c I like learning about this. :P

[Guest]

rustbird, good start. You will eventually want to upgrade, trust me power is addictive.

Just make sure you foloow the install directions, do nottry and think "better" than the people who design the kit.

If you need any pointers, just ask.

Are you planning on getting a fuel pressure safety switch, and window switches?

[rustbird]

what is a fuel pressure safety switch? i'm a moron >_<. Trust me, I would NEVER think I thought better than instructions .

[Dave]

it's a switch you can put inline with your fuel pump, or on the schrader valve of your fuel rail that will cut the N2O if the fuel pressure drops below a certian pressure.

--Dave.

[rustbird]

interesting, i think i shall do that as well sounds like a good fail-safe. Thanx a mil dave!

[Dave]

No problem-o but don't thank just me, there's a few of us who put in some good input in here ... can't forget 'bout those guys too!

--Dave

[rustbird]

I didn't, I was just mentioning what u had just said. I would certainly like to thank everyone else as well. Less than a week till i start ebaying now, kinda getting exciting!