my turbo 3100 project

[kanchou]

sweet. how about dyno figures?

[blackbombshell95]

that is so amazing. did you buy that engine and then rebuild it? because i don't think it came with your car... what did you do to lower the compression? or did you? also who fabricated teh turbo design?

[TurboSedan]

I have debated a standalone for while. I know the pulse width at idle will still dump fuel with the 36# injectors, so I wanted to see how much I can get away with using the stock pcm and the 24# injectors. Apparently not much.

what about using an AFPR to lower base fuel pressure at idle, then use an RRR + the larger injectors? that's the approach i'm taking with my other car anyway, i have been wondering if it would work with my 3.1 MPFI Turbo Cutlass. maybe a 7th injector is the way to go, i'm not sure.

nice pics, nice job

[malibu97ss]

Jman, that looks awesome, i'm jealous about that living room thing...the wife would kill me...oh and I wouldn't mind the BEAUTIFUL engine, either.

[el_roy1985]

Where did you get the parts to make the headers (mostly wondering about the 3 to 1 collectors). I'm assuming you just had a shop cut you the flange (if that's what it's called) that bolts onto the heads. I will probably attempt to make my own headers by using my 3100 that I took out of my car. Then when I think they are done I'll throw them on my 3400 that will be in my car by then. Also what size pipes did you use?

[Jman]

I blew my tranny. Fixed the shifting problem and then kablewie, no more automatic. You guys thinking this stock 4t60 can hang, think again. Plan on a failure, and you wont be surprised when it happens. I found a beefed up auto for like 4 grand, but I rather play around with a standard for a fraction of that price before I go there. No dyno yet, but you guys will be absolutely amazed what 5psi will do for these engines. The header flange is a flame cut, 3/8" mild steel piece. I wanted to make it out of 1/2" to reduce warping, but it just looked rediculous. I cut a general shape using a template of the head and ports. Die-grinded and filed into the shape you see here. D-ports are tapered into O-ports IN the flange, plus the heads are ported and the flanges is port matched with mr-gasket gaskets (white with the copper tack coating.) The tubes at the flange are 100 percent round. 1-5/8" primaries are used, basically because that is the only size I found that I can get a collector for without being too big. The collector is a Hooker header unit. Ill dig around and see if I can get a part number, or you might just call and see if your hotrod shop can find you a set. Research a camshaft too. I think these primaires are allittle too big. I don' t have the low end torque like I used to.

[el_roy1985]

When you say boost comes on @ about 2800 do you mean full boost? I'll probably try for a turbo setup next winter. This winter I'm putting in a 3400, hopefully make headers, and figure out what to do with my getrag tranny that I put in it last year and it had 220,000 miles on it. I only used it cause it was 100 bucks for the tranny and everything I needed to convert. It worked good till late summer too, now it's getting hard to shift.

Thanks for the header specs. I'll probably try to find a collector with smaller primaries. If I can't that's ok, I'm sure the lost torque will give extra horse up top.

[mcgavinz26]

I blew my tranny. Fixed the shifting problem and then kablewie, no more automatic. You guys thinking this stock 4t60 can hang, think again. Plan on a failure, and you wont be surprised when it happens. I found a beefed up auto for like 4 grand, but I rather play around with a standard for a fraction of that price before I go there. No dyno yet, but you guys will be absolutely amazed what 5psi will do for these engines. The header flange is a flame cut, 3/8" mild steel piece. I wanted to make it out of 1/2" to reduce warping, but it just looked rediculous. I cut a general shape using a template of the head and ports. Die-grinded and filed into the shape you see here. D-ports are tapered into O-ports IN the flange, plus the heads are ported and the flanges is port matched with mr-gasket gaskets (white with the copper tack coating.) The tubes at the flange are 100 percent round. 1-5/8" primaries are used, basically because that is the only size I found that I can get a collector for without being too big. The collector is a Hooker header unit. Ill dig around and see if I can get a part number, or you might just call and see if your hotrod shop can find you a set. Research a camshaft too. I think these primaires are allittle too big. I don' t have the low end torque like I used to.

I could have said, "told you so." Get a stock 282 manual with a good clutch. Its the only way to go easily. The swap cost me about $1300 or so.

[Jman]

Yeah I know, bet hey, at least I got a 700 miles outa the old auto before it gave up. I picked up a hm282 out of a beretta for 75 bucks. Tore it down to see whats wrong with it, and it surprised me to only find the differential carrier bearings bad. I would rather drop 1300 on a swap opposed to rebuilding that frikken automatic (again), so thats what im doing.

el_roy1978--->I found the part number for the header collectors . They are hooker, and are sold by the pair. P/N 11512. They cost around 25-35 bucks. Those are mild steel. You want to get those coated when everythings done. Coating cost me about $250.00 from Jet Hot for both headers and the crossover. As far as the boost, if it is floored, then it starts building around 2800, and reaches full boost (waste gate limited to 5psi) around 3500rpm.
I remember reading that automatic transmission cars with turbo setups need a larger a/r, opposed to the same trim on a standard transmission car. I think it has alot to do with the ability to control the load on the engine, which to me is all shift timing and gear ratios. Thats my guess anyways.

[v6h.o.]

Thats one sweet looking swap and setup. Its great to start seeing more and more of these type of installs!

Two thumbs up!

[Jman]

Thanks v6h.o. Dont let that "3400" fool you though, its a 3100, but lets just keep that between you and me, ok? Ill bet you with all this stuff on the car now, you will probably hand me some whopass on the strip anyways. Nice 1/4 times you got there.

[el_roy1985]

thanks for the p/n. One more question about the headers though. Did the collectors come with the flanges (header to crossover) or did you have to buy them seperate? Also what did you do for the two to one on the crossover? Again, thanks for the info. Now I just gotta get my plug installed in the garage for our welder, order the pipes and collectors, and get to work. I gotta make em so they will be compatible with a turbo in the future.

[Jman]

The flanges are separate from the collector. The collectors are reduced to 2-1/2", then I used a 2-1/2" to 2" reducer on the "Y" pipe, or crossover. The crossover is 2". The flanges are 2-1/2". Buy 2 sets; use one set for the headers, and the other for your crossover, and just bolt your crossover to your headers. You can buy flanges for your turbo, or make em if you have the means; use 1/2" to withstand the heat. When you build your headers, make sure they will clear your steering rack, and cooling fan. My max height was 4-1/2". You have to allow for engine movement, especially for your new found torque.

[el_roy1985]

Thanks bunches. I'm probably gonna have a pretty solid set engine. I have a poly lower dogbone, poly upper insert, solid lower trans, and will probably put in the w-body upper front mount and get that in poly. Now I just have to figure out a good way to make some headers to try and get them as close to equal length as I can. I'm guessing it will be pretty difficult cause there isn't much room to work with. Although it will give me experiance, and I'll probably have fun.