Nos wet or dry

[blackbombshell95]

i understand the concept sort of wet shots and dry shots... let me tell you my scenario.

short intro:: at my college where i'm studing to be an auto mechanic; i plan to rebuild my engine and tranny both with harder parts. and this is next summer when we start our projects in class. and doing my eng/tranny is my project.

and of course i plan to use nos. Now, i know there is a better place to install nos then right after the throttlebody (filter or TB spacer or what not). is 'direct port injection' possible? how can this be done? would dry or wet be the best for this....

and i plan to use SS valves and the whole shabang.

slap me if i don't know what i'm talking about.

[ProjectMM]

I saw once about injector plates that would sit under the injector and it had 2 ports and was setup for drict port injecton! a really a trips setup! I'll see about trying to find who sells those plates! I thins it was NOS that had them but I'll try to see

[blackbombshell95]

sweet. i will be checking back daily.

[Dave]

Nitrous Oxide Systems (a Holley Company) sells the direct port kits called "NOSzle" where the N2O nozzles will sit right under each injector. part number 08006NOS NOTE A: Available with 15 lb. bottle. Add -15 to part number (ex. xxxx-15NOS) NOTE B: Available with 20 lb. bottle. Add -20 to part number (ex. xxxx-20NOS) All kits come standard with a 10 lb. bottle. NOTE: Kits are available without bottle and bottle brackets. Add "-NB" to part number. (ex. xxxx-NBNOS)

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/NOS/NOSNS/NOSzle.html

Always ALWAYS use a wet kit - if you don't, you risk killing your engine really fast (I've seen it happen bunches of times)

Also, start out small, and use a dyno, and work your way up, keeping your A/F ratio in a good fairly rich area (11.5:1 is good for N2O) on an UN-Modded engine, don't go more then (I think the rule is) 20% of your total output, so if you're making 100hp don't go more then 120HP, and that's crank HP not wheel.

On a FWD car with an auto trans, that is about 20% drivetrain loss so say you dyno shows 100 HP, you're already making 125 HP, so don't get more then 120hp on the dyno and you'll be good. (120 wheel HP = about 150 crank HP in this example)

gap your plugs down about .010 smaller then the manufacturer requires (so if it's suposed to be at .045, go to .035) this will help the N2O/Fuel mix burn better.

I hope some of that helps for ya.

--Dave

[dohcfiend]

let's phrase it like this. Is sex better wet or dry? yes direct port is possible on any engine as long as you have a professional do it. the way it works is they put a fogger nozzle into each of your intake ports by drilling and tapping them.

the "NOS-ZLE" is a dry setup don't believe their marketing. although it does mix with your existing fuel more efficiently than a standard dry shot. a wet shot draws upon extra fuel that doesn't already exist. unless you plan on really juicing it, just go with 1 nozzle behind the tb.

anything more than a 50 shot(20% engine output) and u will have to get an ignition box, bigger injectors, recalibrate your computer for them, change to a colder plug and narrow the gap a tad(but when not using n20 they will foul quickly, a big pain if you are using a 96-97 motor), perhaps change cam timing a tad to vent the hotter gases quicker(this is not necessary just a suggestion) also i am not sure if your internals can hold up to alot of n20. i have heard hypereutectic pistons can crack like glass under too much nitrous.

lastly, if you have your heart set on a direct port. yes it is waaaay more efficient, yes it make way more power, yes it looks soooo trick and yes it cost ALOT more. but look at it like this, put a nozzle behind your tb and try it out and tune it 1st, then go to a direct port but leave the nozzle in place and you can 2 stage it then. use the nozzle shot until it gets hooked up and then really spray it with the direct port.


p.s.also, i have heard horror stories of a dry nitrous backfire. don't know alot about it though.

[Dave]

... the NOSzle system is a wet-system, not a dry system.



red is fuel
blue is N2O

and in this cutaway, you can see the two different ports on the outsides of the injector in the adapter - the inner port is for fuel, the outer port is for the N2O



This is 100% for sure a wet kit, I gaurentee it, I've installed these systems several times ... three times to be exact on three 4.6 Mustangs.

--Dave.

[dohcfiend]

..................I'll be damned.

the one i seen didn't appear to have fuel. perhaps i looked at it wrong.

[Dave]

They did start out making the kit dry, but after the first few hundred got out the door, they realized every engine they went on, blew up - so they had to redesign the system quick - it's a nice long sad story, but they backed up their fuckups and bought a bunch of new engines.

As far as Dry Kits go, they suck, because they depend on your O2 sensor to add fuel (after it senses a lean condition) now if you have a BRAND NEW sensor you can get away with it, but if you've got an old slow sensor, you're nearly doomed for sure.

I'm planning on setting up this kit on my Z34 as soon as I have the extra few hundred it's gonna take.

--Dave.

[malibu97ss]

As far as Dry Kits go, they suck, because they depend on your O2 sensor to add fuel

They add fuel by raising fuel pressure before any nitrous is injected, and during injection(if system is properly wired, etc.). IMO, the car should experience a run rich condition immediately before the nitrous hits, and then should maintain a good a/f ratio as long as the O2 sensor is working properly, and the injectors are not badly clogged, etc.