Iron-head 2.8MPFI Turbo Install / 85 Celebrity

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

First Kill!

Today I was running Camilla around town with the datalogger hooked up. Was dialing in the cruise fuel tables and just driving normally.

I was out of town on a 2-lane road which is curvy and there is little opportunity to pass. There was traffic in front and behind me so no reason to even think about passing cars. Traffic was going about 50 because of one slow vehicle three cars ahead of me. Ahead of that, it was clear.

A small gap opened up behind me and lo and behold - here comes a silver VW GTI, flying around 5 or 6 cars and cramming himself into the gap behind me.

It didn't take long for me to recognize this car. It is the same silver GTI which has repeatedly challenged my 84 Century Olympia, giving me repeated satisfaction of blowing his doors off every time. After at least 5 or 6 times getting his butt wiped by the Century, he finally stopped challenging me in that car.

Today he met Camilla. He will remember Camilla.

The road has several '3 lane' sections which are for trucks going up hills. You can pass one or two cars in these areas safely. I knew that once this area came up, everyone would be hot to pass the slow car. When the road opened up, I let the cars ahead of me change lanes to go around the slow guy. The silver GTI was furiously wavering left and right because he couldn't get around everyone first like he wanted.

After the first 3-lane section, it was one car ahead of me, me in Camilla, and the GTI, all going about 65. The second 3-lane appeared in the distance and the GTI started wavering left and right again as if he were trying to keep his tires hot. The passing lane appeared and I move around the car ahead, in normal speed. GTI tries to fly around me on the right as soon as he has room, so I open the 2.8 wide open. Instant 12 PSI boost. GTI front bumper was even with my passengers door at that point. In mere seconds, he was 5 or 10 car lengths behind and the passing lane ended.

Sadly my exit came up and I had to turn before any more challenges. But it was a great first kill for the newly awakened Eurosport.

Sincerely,
David

[caffeine]

Awesome!

[Purple pit]

I would have liked to seen the look on his face.

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

I would have liked to seen the look on his face.

Couldn't see it. He was too far back.....

I could see him angrily flashing his one remaining functional high beam light at me.

[caffeine]

I remember doing a pull with a new FRS a year or so ago in my Fiero. Wasn't even a competition .

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

I remember doing a pull with a new FRS a year or so ago in my Fiero. Wasn't even a competition .

Yeah. I imagine not! A 3500 in a Fiero is the classis "little car big engine" setup!

It's funny how these people are COMPLETELY SURE they can outrun any older car. Then they take it SO HARD when they lose.

That's why it's so much fun!!!

[1988GTU]

It's funny how these people are COMPLETELY SURE they can outrun any older car. Then they take it SO HARD when they lose.

That's why it's so much fun!!!

If and when that day should come to where it no longer gives me motivation to mod these types of vehicles will be the day I probably will revoke my own DL.

[caffeine]

Ya it's gotta be embarrassing when your brand new sports car can't beat a 25+ year old commuter car haha.

[caffeine]

The FRS isn't what I would call a fast car but it's probably one of those cars that feels fast... Sorta like a Honda CRX.

[1988GTU]

Sorta like a Honda CRX.

Noise is all it is.

[robertisaar]

your average go-kart feels fast too, that low to the ground must feel like warp speed at 55.

[Guest]

Where did you grab power for the amplifier? How are you triggering it to turn on?

Depending on how and where you pulled power from, I think I know what might be happening.

Also FYI, Metra, along with a few other aftermarket audio accessory manufacturers made and supply harness adapters and repair pig tails for plugging into OEM harnesses.

[davida1_hiwaay_net]

Where did you grab power for the amplifier? How are you triggering it to turn on?

Depending on how and where you pulled power from, I think I know what might be happening.

Also FYI, Metra, along with a few other aftermarket audio accessory manufacturers made and supply harness adapters and repair pig tails for plugging into OEM harnesses.

Just a quick reply (really busy)

The amplifier instructions explained that it needs a constant battery feed for the power supply. I connected it to an unused power feed on the fusebox. There was no wire installed in one position of the fuse box. I crimped a OEM terminal to a wire and clipped it into the fusebox. That fuse is hot all the time. I have tried a pair of dedicated power and ground wires directly to the battery but there was no difference.

The turn-on wire comes from the radio, it is the factory signal to operate a power antenna. WHen the radio is ON, this signal is connected to the accessory power feed. This signal is powered on when the accessory or run position is selected. It powers OFF during cranking.

[1988GTU]

You might need an inline cap and it would hurt to use a capacitive filter before it to make that situation go away.

[Guest]

Just a quick reply (really busy)

The amplifier instructions explained that it needs a constant battery feed for the power supply. I connected it to an unused power feed on the fusebox. There was no wire installed in one position of the fuse box. I crimped a OEM terminal to a wire and clipped it into the fusebox. That fuse is hot all the time. I have tried a pair of dedicated power and ground wires directly to the battery but there was no difference.

The turn-on wire comes from the radio, it is the factory signal to operate a power antenna. WHen the radio is ON, this signal is connected to the accessory power feed. This signal is powered on when the accessory or run position is selected. It powers OFF during cranking.

When you connected to the battery did you just use spring loaded clamps, or did you actually make proper connections? I have found many times that using spring loaded clamps on some devices, especially sensitive electronics, that draw more than an ampere, will cause issues, or at least not properly verify a change.

If the amplifier is rated to draw more than 10 amperes, run a battery line to the battery directly and install an appropriately sized fuse at the battery. I have found in many cases that while an issue may not show up initially using another point, eventually one will show up, due to increased resistance in the power supply (voltage drop) over using a dedicated power wire. Grounding to some thick metal in the kick panel is ideal, for you amplifier location, though I will also suggest moving it to a more ventilated location, if the actual power output is anything over about 100W. An amplifier that puts out 100W will usually take in about 200W and that's a LOT of power dissipation in the form of heat to try and deal with.

Does the amp normally go into protect mode for a few seconds at power on? Many amplifiers do, until all of the system checks are done and pass.