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  • Too much heat wrap? Best pyro location?

    A thought that popped in my head, just seeing what everyone's input is on this.

    So for my turbo, the headers are wrapped, the cross-over is wrapped, the downpipe is wrapped to the exhaust system and the exhaust housing has a blanket. Is it possible to have too much wrapped in the engine compartment?

    I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask regardless .

    Lastly, what's the best location to install a pyrometer? IE, how close/far from the turbo do I ideally want to be? I will eventually use it with a turbo timer, but for now it'll just be on a gauge for kicks and giggles.
    You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
    ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
    95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

  • #2
    I wouldn't think it's too much if you like your wiring and hoses. Not with a turbo anyways.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
    -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
    91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
    92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
    94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
    Originally posted by Jay Leno
    Tires are cheap clutches...

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    • #3
      Too much heat wrap may cause thin steel to fail from heat stress, but I don't think that will be a problem with low/moderate boost. I double wrapped the entire pre-turbo exhaust and single wrapped the downpipe. With a turbo heat jacket.

      I have my 1st EGT as close to the exhaust port cyl #5. I use it as a fail safe for combustion temps.

      I plan to have a dual EGT system for the turbo. On pre, the other post turbo. The difference in temp is the power the turbo is pushing. If temp difference decreases, then turbo efficiency is starting to waiver. It would be cool to have a gauge that displays the temp difference between two EGT's.

      Though, I have my eye on an 8 EGT system. 2 for the turbo and one for each cylinder. It would kick ass simply because I could then accurately skew each injector to fine tune balance the afr per cylinder/injector.



      As for where to install the EGT? It all depends. If you want to measure cylinder EGTS, be as close to the exhaust valve as possible. If you plan to use multiple EGT's down the road, they must be the same distance from the exhaust valves to be worth reading data from. If you are measuring turbo temps, I am guessing as close as possible since these sensors are not prone to fail from the extreme heat.
      1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
        Too much heat wrap may cause thin steel to fail from heat stress, but I don't think that will be a problem with low/moderate boost. I double wrapped the entire pre-turbo exhaust and single wrapped the downpipe. With a turbo heat jacket.
        With everything wrapped, how cool is your exhaust system? (underhood temps and such)
        You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
        ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
        95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

        Comment


        • #5
          Zero heat issues! Intake temps are cool (but it draws from outside the engine bay). EGT's are steady at 800F idle but that is pre-heat wrap.

          As long as boost levels are reasonable for the street (nothing insane) then double heat wrap shouldn't be a problem. I can say the stock exhaust manifolds and crossover can hold up to a double wrap with boost pressures around 8psi.

          I did soak the wrap in water before wrapping and man it made a big difference helping the wrap cling and mold to the manifolds shape. Baked off the moisture then sprayed with silicon sealer. With the 180F TStat the turbo drives like stock heat wise.


          The turbo heat jacket does reduce the turbo whine sound if you like hearing the spool up while driving around town.
          Last edited by TGP37; 08-08-2012, 09:22 AM.
          1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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          • #6
            With a turbo that is the proper size for the motor and with the right size exhaust piping you shouldn't see to much of a raise in underhood temps with normal DD. I personally don't like to wrap my turbo, I wrap wires and intake. I want the heat to dissipate from the housing to keep the oil from cooking. Big rigs have been doing this for years and it seems to work for them lol.

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            • #7
              I prefer to wrap exhaust, especially preturbo to help keep velocity high and not waste energy through heat loss.

              A quality synthetic oil changed at regular intervals will do a lot to prevent coking. Adjusting AFR can also help ease coking concerns.

              Would be nice to build a turbo timer that arms when turbo oil out temps reach 240F+ and keeps running until temps fall below 240 instead of having a time limit.

              Big rigs, diesel, isn't diesl hotter combusting then gas? I have zero turbo diesel experience. Plus those big rigs are tuned for long term use to save fuel and I imagine they run at stoich cruising making the EGT's hellish hot.
              1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
                I prefer to wrap exhaust, especially preturbo to help keep velocity high and not waste energy through heat loss.
                I understand the science behind that theory. I see it as once everything is heated up it will hold that heat, everything gets heat soaked. And with an engine that is running, it will always have the heat. Will the heat loss from between the cylinders to the start of the downpipe cause a loss of horsepower, prob in the amount of .0000000002%

                Velocity energy in regards to street vehicles and effecting HP was made a big deal to create a demand for a product. Where your HP gains will be is in keeping your intake charge cold.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
                  Big rigs, diesel, isn't diesl hotter combusting then gas? I have zero turbo diesel experience. Plus those big rigs are tuned for long term use to save fuel and I imagine they run at stoich cruising making the EGT's hellish hot.
                  Diesels run cooler than gasoline as far as exhaust goes. That's how you can take a turbo off of a 6+ liter truck and put it on a 3+ liter in a car and have it work.

                  Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
                  -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                  91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                  92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                  94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                  Originally posted by Jay Leno
                  Tires are cheap clutches...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bearbear3_4 View Post
                    Where your HP gains will be is in keeping your intake charge cold.
                    Yup, plumbed the intake filter where your IC is. Gets all the fresh, cool air she needs.

                    In the end there is more then one way in the finer details. The heat wrap isn't gonna hurt my exhaust steel strength. The thinnest steel is the crossover and that is pretty thick. I think it's 12ga, maybe 14 at the least. 16ga is used 3 feet past the downpipe start.

                    I like the clean look too when it is silicon coated.....mine are black.
                    1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
                      Yup, plumbed the intake filter where your IC is. Gets all the fresh, cool air she needs.

                      In the end there is more then one way in the finer details. The heat wrap isn't gonna hurt my exhaust steel strength. The thinnest steel is the crossover and that is pretty thick. I think it's 12ga, maybe 14 at the least. 16ga is used 3 feet past the downpipe start.

                      I like the clean look too when it is silicon coated.....mine are black.
                      Wrapped exhaust does look sexy

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
                        Yup, plumbed the intake filter where your IC is. Gets all the fresh, cool air she needs.
                        I like the clean look too when it is silicon coated.....mine are black.
                        I bought blue dyed heat wrap. My first kit I used the "natural" heat wrap then silicon coated. I will likely silicon coat them later on..
                        You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
                        ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
                        95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

                        Comment

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