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  • #16
    ok well than my next question any suggestions on what 2 bar map sensor to get or to use.
    [COLOR="red"]1996 beretta z26, 3500 v6 currently awaiting my holset hx35 COLOR]

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    • #17
      You don't need a 2 bar MAP sensor and running one may make the car run worse. On most NA PCMs, it's best if the computer can't see the boost. If you really want one, GM has made a variety of 2 and 3 bar MAP sensors over the years. The ones from the Grand National seem to be plentiful and cheap.

      Tim
      1995 Z34 - T04E "60" trim, 42.5 lb/hr injectors, AEM WBO2, FFP UD&DB, 3" exhaust, 2800 stall, shift kit, tranny cooler, Powerslot, Hawk HPS, rear disc conversion, KYB, Eibach, HMS F&R STB, Fittipaldi Force 18" wheels, big stereo, lots more coming eventually...
      325 whp 350 lb-ft

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      • #18
        ok so ill be using the stock map sensor.. heres another question...

        what fuel pump should i run? ive been told the walbro gss307 255 high pressure will do the job what do you think? jdsperformance sells a wally kit for like 99 bucks from a 86-91 camaro. will that work or better yet what cars are compatible as in fuel pump wise?
        [COLOR="red"]1996 beretta z26, 3500 v6 currently awaiting my holset hx35 COLOR]

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        • #19
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          We never welded the WG's shut, but rather take the flapper arm and use a piece of rod to bolt it solid to the housing. This not only allows the turbo to be re-used on another project later, it also secures the flapper without the risk of it coming lose. We have run them up to 15psi in this configuration without issues. I have welded cast iron before, but it's not only difficult, the welds like to crack after several heat cycles depending on the filler used.
          What kind of welding equipment do you use? I've been welding on cast iron since before it was blended as well as it is now (1994) and fortunately I've never had a problem so far. I use a MIG welder and was told by a professional that I should lay down an anchor bead with flux cored wire first to insure good depth penetration. I did that initially but didn't care for the mess flux wire makes and ever since I've turned up the power to make sure I have a nice hot puddle with gas only.

          All of my cast iron welds have been tied to turbocharging and OE cast iron is usually pretty good stuff so on something else it may prove to be as difficult as you've described. I was also told to use stainless wire.

          On the external wastegate, get an adjustable if you can. I'm glad I did because now I can increase my boost in small consistent increments without the need to change chip programming. At one time I didn't like the idea of external wastegates, not sure what I was thinking. I wouldn't go back to integral. I have a long dump pipe on an oversized gate 60mm and when it opens it has a distinctive sound that adds character to the exhaust note.

          The first is a brief note just like the sound of blowing over the openning of a big jug on gradual approach to boost, on an all out run it sounds like the secondaries on the old big performance carbs where a second exhaust note is super imposed over the first. It doesn't flutter, pop or go Shhhhhhhhh! like a bad exhaust leak and that was initially why I had the external gate dump back into the exhaust, to avoid an unattractive dump sound. I realize now that it can be tuned to an extent to sound like something more refined. I'll try to get it on tape or video one day.

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          • #20
            to use a 2 bar map, does this work?

            Reply #30 http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthre...hlight=bar+map

            I'll be using loners pcm with the last tune that he had programmed.. so I'm not sure if i'll have to use the 2 bar or not.
            You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
            ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
            95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

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