beretta 3500 turbo

[Shane]

Once I get the 3500 in I plan on goin Turbo. Just wondering where others were getting parts from? I'm not to sure where to start. Like piping size, Turbo size, etc.

[alpinestar10]

Well theres no easy anwser to give. But theres a few turbo build threads on v6z24.com that can help you out since they are really close cars

A lot of pople run different setups too look up midnightriderz24 and take a look through his thread on here too

[pocket-rocket]

For turbo and pipe sizing, ect., pick this up:

http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1297799934&sr=1-1

[Schmieder]

Well, I got some experience putting a turbo on my 3100 L82.

for the 3100 the T3/T04E .53 works great so you may need one just a little stronger.

The TB lip which attaches to the intake runners to the filter, rough it up as I had mine pop off even with proper clamps and silicon hose. I eventually carved a lip for the silicon to bite too. Yours is probably different....but the concept is the same.

I have used 2" intake piping for the turbo and it flows just fine.

2.5" exhaust works good for me. But you may want 2.75"-3" with a 3500.

The bigger the intercooler and the longer the intake piping = louder BOV

Turbo housing jackets are nice but they kill the turbo spool up sound.

If you have vents in your hood, discharging the BOV out the vent sounds bada$$

Get a bin file (***.bin not ***.hpt) for your PCM so you can use Tiny Tuners to tune for a 2-2.5 bar Map Sensor

The BOV in line with the MAF caused me fueling issues at decel. i.e. the BOV and MAF is now seperate with a 90 degree pipe seemed to resolve it. It just went rich at times releasing from boost. Wasn't a DE issue. I figured there was a spinning vortex of air remaining and when it jets out the BOV I believe the vortex briefly extends into the MAF causing the sensor to sense more airflow then what really is.

I had zero decel issues with the MAF only 2" away from the TB housing.

For my 3100, the rear exhaust manifold, I had to cut off the part that continues the exhaust to the DP. Otherwise I had very little to no room running the exhaust from the turbo at 2.5"

Find a silicon tube that has the right size port for the IAT. Otherwise mounting the IAT can be a PITA.

Placing my oil cooler just ahead of the turbo oil feed helped keep intake temps down and kept the turbo cooler (oil cooled)

CXracing.com is where I got my knock off turbo and it lasted punishment for over a year now. They make great intercooler kits. Just don't buy the vacuum/boost gauge they offer. The face has 1 less minor tick making it hard to read.

Glowshift.com is where I got my gauges. They are really cheap compared to others and they work good enough for me.

My oil feed kit was from ebay. It works great but one piece of advice. Do not over tighten the oil in flange as it will break easily being made of aluminum.

Heat wrap for exhaust was Ebay and works as it should. But it NEEDS a protective coat cause it dries up and sheds fast.

I used the 1/8" and 1/2" NPT thread tap often.

I am learning my WOT fueling under boost varies by 0.3-0.5 AFR and I tracked the culprit to variable voltages to the pump and injectors. I am going to invest in a voltage regulator.

You probably know all this stuff already. I'm just tossing things off the top of my head. If you need any help/questions, don't hesitate to ask.

[Shane]

No that definitely helps I'm kinda lost when it comes to this stuff. I wish someone made a how-to for boosting Beretta's that have 3x00 engines. And even include engine internals upgrade for boosting.

[pocket-rocket]

No that definitely helps I'm kinda lost when it comes to this stuff. I wish someone made a how-to for boosting Beretta's that have 3x00 engines. And even include engine internals upgrade for boosting.

For turbo and pipe sizing, ect., pick this up:

http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-...7799934&sr=1-1

Grab that book and it will show you how to figure sizes of pipe and turbo, fuel requirements, upgrades, ect.

[Shane]

Where are some good places to get Turbo piping from?
I found this

http://compare.ebay.com/like/330457649700?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&rvr_id=211311297532&crlp=1_263602_304662&UA=L*S%3F&GUID=e6f82d9512d0a0a9ef872c17ffcb1876&itemid=330457649700&ff4=263602_304662

[Driver_10]

As far as I have searched, the GT3582R turbo is perfect for the 3500 v6. The Holset HX35 is a pretty good turbo to use for that motor as well if your on a budget. You could get away with a cheap 60-1 compressor which is good low rpm power at least. The piping size for the primaries should be about 1.65-1.75 and feed into a collector of about no more than two inches. (just my belief, but I believe that merdge pipes should be no larger than the 1.65 primaries considering the fact that the 60 degree only produces one pulses per bank at a time) Anything larger than two inches just looses heat and kinetic energy.

A "dual scroll" exhaust housing and seperated pipes feeding from either bank with dual 38mm wastegates would be ideal, but a traditional 2-1 merdge with a single 40mm wastegate will work well also.((just wont spool as fast or produce as good a torque-band as a true "divided" set-up)

[Shane]

??

[pocket-rocket]

If you don't get what he is saying, you don't have any business turboing your car and you need to do a lot of homework. Otherwise you are going to blow your engine up and possibly hurt yourself or others. High performance, such as adding a turbo is not a bolt on type of thing. You need to know exactly what you are doing. You can't just bolt it on, add some bigger injectors and expect it to work without a hitch.

[Driver_10]

If you don't get what he is saying, you don't have any business turboing your car and you need to do a lot of homework. Otherwise you are going to blow your engine up and possibly hurt yourself or others. High performance, such as adding a turbo is not a bolt on type of thing. You need to know exactly what you are doing. You can't just bolt it on, add some bigger injectors and expect it to work without a hitch.

Dont be mean now, everyone has to start learning somewhere.

Now Shane, what is it thats confusing you? You look as though you have some questions.

[pocket-rocket]

Dont be mean now, everyone has to start learning somewhere.

Now Shane, what is it thats confusing you? You look as though you have some questions.

I'm not trying to be mean, even though it sounded like it. I don't want to see anyone get hurt because a he decides to just bolt on a turbo and not take the time to learn how the system works as a whole. He really does need to learn the fundamentals before moving on with a project of this size.

[bob442]

I think.... if you get a 3500 in there and running properly, we will all be happy to help you out with a turbo setup, in the mean time, start with the 3500 progress. Other wise your coming off as an all talk person. And thats whats gettin people a little flufferd.
Go get a 3500, show some pics start a thread, and it will all come together for you.

[Shane]

OK well I was planning on getting that book that someone mentioned and do some studying up on it first. I was just curious as to what others were doing, or if anyone has turbo' d that engine yet. I do appreciate your input and don't take it to heart, the military helped me to accept constructive criticism. So no worries.
LOL.
I know its that wrong section but any more word on the 3500 how-to. Last I saw it only said how to take out the 3100.

[pocket-rocket]

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/36647-3500-swap-questions

That swap took place in a W body, but at least it's a start and you will know what the differences are between a 3100 or 3400 and a 3500 so you will know what you need to track down to make it work.