Question : What gauges should I get with my turbo?

[narutov2]

I drive a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo 3400. I got my turbo kit in the mail today, but won't be put on for a while. Problem: I am a complete noob, so I wanna learn and research as much before putting anything on. So now I'm starting with gauges. I've had many different recommendations from several kind enthusiasts around for our cars.
As far as I'm concerned the must gauge is the boost gauge, which in my case I got a Autometer brand boost/vac gauge, but still need to buy a boost sensor I think, if not on my turbo, I didn't get much of a chance to inspect it yet, that is where the sensor would be right? But for the vac part, does it read from the boost sensor too? since I don't see how you read both parts of the gauge.
So here is the recommendations I got from others:
Oil Pressure
Transmission temperature
Exhaust gas temperature (EGT)
Air/Fuel ratio or Wideband o2, but unlikely they are mad expensive.

Right now I'm thinking of Transmission Temp and EGT gauge. I heard a/f gauges aren't that accurate using the o2 sensor or whatever. As for transmission gauge, What am I looking for? What is the normal operating temp for my transmission or EGT and what is considered hot? since they range from 100-320degrees for the transmission gauge 300-1300 degrees in the EGT gauge. Right now I got my eye on the two gauges, with sensors, but wanted more recommendations and help. Also where would I be plugging those sensors especially the transmission temp sending sensor? I think the EGT sensor would be in somewhere in the exhaust piping?

[bszopi]

A wideband should be a required gauge if you want to have a decent running car. When adding a turbo, you need to tune the PCM, and the only good way to do that is with a wideband so you know exactly what the engine is doing. EGT is good, but to be really accurate, it would be best to have 1 for each cylinder. As far as the tranny temp sensor, do a search as I remember people posting about where to install them just a few months ago.

[3400-95-Modified]

As Bszopi said, do not even plan on putting the turbo on if you think a wideband O2 is too expensive. Grab a PLX with a gauge, they aren't that bad. And without it you'll grenade the engine. EGT setups are more expensive than a wideband.

Also with your boost gauge, if you bought an electronic one it should have the sender with it... if you bought a manual gauge then just hook the vac line up to the intake manifold after the TB... then you'll get both Boost and VAC readings.

I have a PLX setup on my car with a gauge on the Pillar and my second gauge is my fuel pressure one since I'm running Nitrous, I will be adding a Nitrous pressure gauge soon, as well as maybe a trans pressure gauge. On my boosted Legacy I only have a boost gauge right now but I have not done much to the tune to require a a/f gauge since the stock wideband is accurate enough for my current configuration to keep me safe. I'm doing headers and a downpipe soon so I'll be adding a wideband when I do that so I can safely go to stage 2.

[narutov2]

I see so trans temp and wide band. Then I guess I got more saving up to do, But can anyone teach me how to read gauges? Like what is considered high or low for oil pressure? I know in boost I want to limit to 8 so that should be common sense. What am I looking for in vac gauge? What is normal operating temp for transmission? and when is it bad? Thanks

[RedZMonte]

If you are dyno tuning it with a WB O2 on the dyno they you can get by without one... I have Boost and WB O2 on mine.... the tuning program logs everthing else i need basically.

S

[Joseph Upson]

Zeitronix wideband O2 system maybe a much better deal than most everything else on the market. They just released the Zt3 which is wideband only function and should allow you to use your laptop to monitor afr until you get the engine tuned. I looked into PLX and it seemed to be on the professional side given that it has nearly all of its logging parameters setup through individual modules instead of having one package option available. Zeitronix offers the Zt2 outfit that logs 6 to 7 parameters at once through one module, instead of an individual model for each parameter.

Transmission temp sensor and EGT sensor is helpful but not necessary. If your coolant temps are normal and you're not doing anything special with the trans like a high stall converter or power braking you shouldn't have a problem, I'd invest in an external trans cooler instead of a temp gauge if you're concerned. As for the EGT temps, if your engine temp and AFR ratios are well within limits that shouldn't be a problem either. My EGT temps don't start to rise significantly until the AFR starts to get on the lean side.

AFR gauge/dataloging system first. Then everything necessary in addition to tune the engine properly, like larger injectors if necessary. Focus your expense on necessary parts first. I just got a deal on Ebay for a lightly used LCD screen for my Zeitronix datalogger that will allow me to eliminate 3 or 4 gauges. Spend wisely as costs can get out of hand quickly without good planning.

I run a boost, afr, EGT, Fuel pressure and eng oil temp gauge as extras. I like gauges but the boost and afr gauges are the most significant because once you establish what your, fuel pressure, EGT and oil temps are under the most extreme conditions, those parameters will be pretty stable from that point on. If your fuel pressure regulator malfunctions the AFR gauge will tell you, you will also know to suspect your EGT temps might be out of whack as well. If the engine coolant temps are normal, there's no need to suspect that there is a problem with the oil temps, if they get too high your oil pressure will drop. I used oil pressure readings once to discover my engine was running hot while the temp gauge was broken, the hotter it gets the lower the pressure goes. I'll be removing at least three of the five gauges. They take up too much space and are unnecessary now.

[narutov2]

Thanks for all the responses, I do have the 42 injectors already, also got 180 tstat and egr delete for the hell of it. I also bought the 65mm 3.5l throttle body with adapter from wot tech as well as their sportsman upper ported to match tb. The thing is that I am fairly new to cars at the same time, I haven't done anything more than maintaining it and fixing suspension/ brakes/ exhaust, nothing much done to engine before. I really want a dhp tuner since I heard soooooo many good reviews over a hp tuner, since no need to buy credits and u can experiment as much as you want.

And Joseph, does that mean that the AFR changes no matter what tuning u do to it? and it will get lean no matter what? And I am highly interested in that lcd u bought on ebay. What did you mean by LCD? is there a actual name or model you can give me? Cause That sounds awesome to use.

But yea, this stuff isn't getting put on till I know exactly what I'm doing though, since I don't want to do anything stupid to ruin the only car I have. I really gotta save up for a beater....if mine isn't already one.

[Joseph Upson]

Thanks for all the responses, I do have the 42 injectors already, also got 180 tstat and egr delete for the hell of it. I also bought the 65mm 3.5l throttle body with adapter from wot tech as well as their sportsman upper ported to match tb. The thing is that I am fairly new to cars at the same time, I haven't done anything more than maintaining it and fixing suspension/ brakes/ exhaust, nothing much done to engine before. I really want a dhp tuner since I heard soooooo many good reviews over a hp tuner, since no need to buy credits and u can experiment as much as you want.

And Joseph, does that mean that the AFR changes no matter what tuning u do to it? and it will get lean no matter what? And I am highly interested in that lcd u bought on ebay. What did you mean by LCD? is there a actual name or model you can give me? Cause That sounds awesome to use.

But yea, this stuff isn't getting put on till I know exactly what I'm doing though, since I don't want to do anything stupid to ruin the only car I have. I really gotta save up for a beater....if mine isn't already one.

This is the link to their website http://www.zeitronix.com/order/order.htm scroll down to see what the LCD display looks like, I have a silver case model. I have two of the Zt-2 controllers, a 2009 and 2010 model as a result of melting the cable to the WBO2 on the first one and not being confident it only needed a new cable as they suggested, after a repair attempt I made didn't restore proper O2 function. I plan to send it in and let them test it first before buying a new cable for it. I found I had to have WBO2 AFR readings to confirm that I set the base constant for my 60 lb/hr injectors properly among other things.

They upgraded their LCD to a 2010 model also which means I am only able to display 3 different data inputs, two for the WBO2 (lambda & AFR), whatever I connect to for the USER1 input and boost which may or may not be substituted since I have the 2009 and earlier LCD, I didn't confirm that and it's okay since I want and need to know the boost and AFR at all times.

The 2010 datalogger which I have has an additional USER2 input that can be displayed on the 2010 LCD which has the lambda reading unlocked for substituting for a total of 4 different sensor readouts on the LCD which is like having four gauges in one. I can display all data from the controller on the laptop screen at once though.

The reason the AFR is so important is because it is the most crucial input in my opinion. In the event of a sensor or mechanical failure that causes the engine to run lean under boost you NEED to know right away or you can destroy the engine in seconds with one wideopen throttle run. I fried a freshly built TPI V8 motor, my very first turbo build years ago by running it with the wastegate signal disconnected and over boosting it leaning it out severely. Fried the rings and removed the crosshatch from the cylinder walls in some areas to give you an idea of how hot the rings got.

The full datalogging outfit lists for 280 but I never paid that much, finding deals on Ebay. You really only need WBO2 function if you plan to buy DHP so the best priced unit you can get is to your advantage as I'm sure DHP has logging functions of its own. The nice thing about Zeitronix is that it has a programmable logic circuit that can be programmed to activate based on the parameters you set. So in my case I can use it to activate my water/meth injection, or a relay, or warning light based on the conditions I set. I may use it as an adjustable fan switch for my engine oil cooler since the USER2 input can be calibrated for other sensors, in this case my oil temp sender to turn on the oil cooler fan.

I like gauges but right now I have a rather tacky arrangement so eliminating 3 out of 5 is not a bad idea.

[timg]

Ditto a lot of the comments above. If I could only pick two, it would be a wideband O2 sensor and boost gauge. AEM makes a nice WBO2 gauge and boost gauge/boost controller that have matching style and work quite well.

Tim

[narutov2]

Ditto a lot of the comments above. If I could only pick two, it would be a wideband O2 sensor and boost gauge. AEM makes a nice WBO2 gauge and boost gauge/boost controller that have matching style and work quite well.

Tim

Hey I think you are talking about this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250745191704

cause that does seem the cheapest wideband that sounds exactly what I need?

[timg]

That's it.

Tim