Question : Alternate Turbo Oil Return

[Schmieder]

I am going to install an oil cooler for the turbo set up. I have the oil sandwich w/ feed and return ports. However, I know the trubo oil return needs a gravity feed.

BUT, I thought of this and I hope it will work. Getting an Oil Scavenging Pump designed for hot oil. It would work just like a low mount turbo but I have a question regarding oil pump placement.

Oil Sandwich > Turbo In/out > Scavenge Pump > Oil Cooler > Oil Sandwich

OR

Oil Sandwich > Turbo In/out > Oil Cooler > Scavenge Pump > Oil Sandwich

The idea is to run the spent Turbo Oil through an oil cooler before reintroducing it to the system.

I don't think oil gravity return will work at all with an oil cooler in the mix.

Any advice? Other then tapping the oil pan.



EDIT:
I decided to scrap the idea and went with a JEGS No-Weld, 4-bolt Oil Return Fitting. I know a non-weld fitting tends to leak after a little while but this item seems well built. With the right gaskets I bet I could easily punch and bolt a leak free oil return fitting with no welding.

The welding issue is I have an aluminum oil pan. I would need to buy a welder gun designed for aluminum welding (cost is too high for a DIY'er) or pay a welder to do it for me. This bolt on fitting is the cheapest, yet reliable method.

Non-Weld Fitting Link

All I would need is a -10 AN Male to 3/8" NPT Male Adapter to connect my -10 AN female Steel braided hose.


But if anyone knows the best place for a return oil pump, before or after the cooler, or other. Let me know please.

Thanks

[Joseph Upson]

Aluminum oil pans are easy. I tapped and died for a threaded nipple in the side of the pan and put RTV sealant on the threads screwed it in tight and called it a day.

[Honest Don]

Aluminum oil pans are easy. I tapped and died for a threaded nipple in the side of the pan and put RTV sealant on the threads screwed it in tight and called it a day.

Teflon Paste works pretty good too

[Schmieder]

Aluminum oil pans are easy. I tapped and died for a threaded nipple in the side of the pan and put RTV sealant on the threads screwed it in tight and called it a day.

Am I going overboard with this non-weld fitting?

It seems like a nice tight seal, especially with Red-RTV on the outer side, leaving the inner side clean.

I don't have a tap n die but I suppose I could use a -10 AN Male to 3/8" Male and get a bolt to thread the 3/8" male end, using RTV.

What do you guys think? I mean, $40 is a bit much for fitting the oil return to the pan, but then again, not dripping oil is an honor for anyone building up their block.

[Joseph Upson]

Am I going overboard with this non-weld fitting?

It seems like a nice tight seal, especially with Red-RTV on the outer side, leaving the inner side clean.

I don't have a tap n die but I suppose I could use a -10 AN Male to 3/8" Male and get a bolt to thread the 3/8" male end, using RTV.

What do you guys think? I mean, $40 is a bit much for fitting the oil return to the pan, but then again, not dripping oil is an honor for anyone building up their block.

Tap as in drill bit and die from NAPA in the size you need and the threaded nipple of choice from Advance or Autozone autoparts should do it. The potential problem with the item you are looking at is that you will be limited regarding where you can place it because of the ribbing on the oil pan, if it is more than 1.25" square. If it fits in the designated location that's fine. I don't have the oil drip issues you speak of. A good job on install with proper sealing techniques should eliminate that, even if it takes making a washer for the nipple and putting a rubber o-ring underneath before screwing it down.

[Schmieder]

Tap as in drill bit and die from NAPA in the size you need and the threaded nipple of choice from Advance or Autozone autoparts should do it. The potential problem with the item you are looking at is that you will be limited regarding where you can place it because of the ribbing on the oil pan, if it is more than 1.25" square. If it fits in the designated location that's fine. I don't have the oil drip issues you speak of. A good job on install with proper sealing techniques should eliminate that, even if it takes making a washer for the nipple and putting a rubber o-ring underneath before screwing it down.

Sounds good. I would have figured such a simple set up would work, God knows I 'jerry rigged' many many things in my time.

Like when I was 15 yrs old I duct taped a can of starting fluid to the side of my moped with a wooden block over the nozzle. The straw was inserted into the air intake box. The wood block served as a pedal activator.

WEEEeeeeee, lol
The engine died a year later from constant abuse.

[ForcedFirebird]

LOL @ the poor man's nitrous.

I agree with Joseph, the oil pan is thick enough to thread, much easier and probably cheaper. If it were a steel punched pan, I would recommend something similar to what you showed (but again more simple) - we use a double sided 10an male/male fitting with a large fender washer and nut.

[Schmieder]

LOL @ the poor man's nitrous.

I agree with Joseph, the oil pan is thick enough to thread, much easier and probably cheaper. If it were a steel punched pan, I would recommend something similar to what you showed (but again more simple) - we use a double sided 10an male/male fitting with a large fender washer and nut.

Cool deal, that is how I will proceed with the oil pan tap. -10 AN Male/Male with a nut, washer and rubber o-ring fit to size.

Seems simple, effective and most importantly...CHEAP!

Reason I was hoping for a steel pan is I can weld steel easily. Aluminum is out of my equipment range. But, problem solved any how.

[ForcedFirebird]

I was saying if you had a steel pan do that, the aluminum one is thick enough to thread.

[Schmieder]

I was saying if you had a steel pan do that, the aluminum one is thick enough to thread.

Ohh, I had to re-read what you said and I see what you meant.

Weld or AN male with nut/o-ring if steel but thread if aluminum.

Again, thanks for the info.