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  • #16
    that article does look familiar.... might have been the one that got those gears turning in my head, or at least confirmed my suspicions that it would be a worthwhile investment...
    1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
    Latest nAst1 files here!
    Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

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    • #17
      I have an idea, may seem a little radical but it may help out.

      Maybe running the oil through an oil cooler before it gets pumped into the turbo. It would make the oil a bit thicker. This could, in theory, reduce the oil leaking through the seals.

      It would also increase the oils ability to extract heat from the turbo.


      I would try mounting an oil cooler where it would get great air flow. Then route the oil to the turbo.

      I never tried anything like that so I can not speak from experience but it seems logical.

      Opinions? Has anyone done that before? I am interested since I am dropping in a turbo very soon myself and would like to not have such an issue.

      Also, I read one is supposed to use full synthetic oil when running a turbo, not to use standard oils.
      Last edited by Schmieder; 01-15-2010, 10:09 PM.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Schmieder View Post
        Also, I read one is supposed to use full synthetic oil when running a turbo, not to use standard oils.
        due to synthetic's ability to not break down from heat as quickly and superior lubrication at those temps, i would reccomend it as well. unless you plan on ~1K mile oil changes.
        1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
        Latest nAst1 files here!
        Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

        Comment


        • #19
          Synth-Blend Valvoline for me every 3K. seems to be working just fine for me.
          Shane "RedZMonte"
          2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
          1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
          -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
          2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
          1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
          1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
          1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
          1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

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          • #20
            A cooler before the turbo could take the oil out of it's "happy" temperature range. If anything, I would run a cooler like the older DOHC cars. You don't want your oil too cold. I've heard of scary stories from drag racing that started after using really good oil coolers (read cooled the oil down too much). Some might find the oil cooler on the earlier DOHC a waste, but you can bet I won't be getting rid of mine any time soon.
            -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
            91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
            92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
            94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
            Originally posted by Jay Leno
            Tires are cheap clutches...

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            • #21
              For a long time, I ran Valvoline MaxLife with an added MaxLife additive. It seemed to cure a lot of my issues. For some reason, my car always burned more oil and smoked more when running Mobil 1.

              Tim
              1995 Z34 - T04E "60" trim, 42.5 lb/hr injectors, AEM WBO2, FFP UD&DB, 3" exhaust, 2800 stall, shift kit, tranny cooler, Powerslot, Hawk HPS, rear disc conversion, KYB, Eibach, HMS F&R STB, Fittipaldi Force 18" wheels, big stereo, lots more coming eventually...
              325 whp 350 lb-ft

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              • #22
                My prizm seemed to burn more oil with mobil 1 and Kendall oil. I now use Valvoline in all my cars.
                Corey's 95 GP - Engine/Trans installed
                02 GTP - 90* > Failboat
                www.blackbombshell95.com

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                • #23
                  As said, a 5W-30 oil is perfect for our motors. I had Valvoline MaxLife in my GA before switching to full synthetic. The only thing I noticed, at really cold temps, it would knock while cold. Sometimes really bad. I've been running Castrol Edge full synthetic oil, 5W-30, since the spring. Not once, during the cold months so far, have I gotten a knock while cold. Not even on a few 10 degree mornings. And it doesn't struggle to start up in the morning either. The Castrol Edge is some awesome stuff. I have 6K on this batch, it's still at the full line, and nice and clean. This is with a Bosch oil filter, and my motor is at 114,300 miles now.
                  Last edited by [ChaosweaveR]; 01-18-2010, 02:00 AM.
                  -Chris-
                  03 Black GAGT Sedan
                  MODS:
                  MP Racing CAI / Magnaflow High Flow Catalytic Converter / Flowmaster 80 series w/glasspack resonator
                  Front STB / MSD Ignition: 8.5mm wires & blaster coils / SOME BIG GODDAMNED MUDFLAPS

                  And some other stuff to make it look pretty.

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                  • #24
                    The knock is likely piston slap. My car has always had it, and the motor is showing no signs of giving up despite what I throw at it.
                    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                    Original L82 Longblock
                    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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                    • #25
                      Throw a 300 shot of NAWS at it, yo!
                      -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                      91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                      92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                      94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                      Originally posted by Jay Leno
                      Tires are cheap clutches...

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
                        The knock is likely piston slap. My car has always had it, and the motor is showing no signs of giving up despite what I throw at it.
                        Yikes, really? O.o
                        I've heard dying motors with a piston slap (Ford 4.2L's) and it was not only loud, but it was running rough (dunno if it was a misfire or bad injectors) sounded like it was going to tear itself apart.

                        I've never had that knock since switching over to the Castrol stuff, so I guess I'm alright then.
                        -Chris-
                        03 Black GAGT Sedan
                        MODS:
                        MP Racing CAI / Magnaflow High Flow Catalytic Converter / Flowmaster 80 series w/glasspack resonator
                        Front STB / MSD Ignition: 8.5mm wires & blaster coils / SOME BIG GODDAMNED MUDFLAPS

                        And some other stuff to make it look pretty.

                        Comment

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